Weber linkage sticking

[Farmer]

New carb. The actual linkage is sticking. you can feel metal to metal while moving it. Is there a lubicant that will help? Or ive read somewhere if the carb is tighend to much, it will bind.

 

Larry

[I'm BLUE]

The base/throttle plate bolts should only be like 5-8ft lbs ,,, at most :mellow: ,,, and yes ,,, it will FAWK up your carb if tightened too much ( many ,,, many ,,, people over-tighten these )

 

Re-Torque each one ,,, carefully ,,, one by one ,,, 5ft lbs is literally almost nothing !

[yello620]

Larry, loosen the nut that holds the throttle linkage cam. If this nut is overtightened, the linkage will bind.

[Farmer]

Larry, loosen the nut that holds the throttle linkage cam. If this nut is overtightened, the linkage will bind.

I did that exact thing earlier today. still is binding. I'll retorque like DTP suggested

 

Larry

[yello620]

Next i would probably separate the Primary from the Secondary to verify which side is sticking/binding. I would also get a flashlight and look down the barrels and make sure that it is not rubbing on the adapter or the gaskets. I have had to gring on the inside of the adapters before because the throttle butterflies rubbed on the adapter.

 

You might also remove all the external linkage parts to see if it is external or internal binding.

[Farmer]

Loosened nut at linkage, still sticking. Took the carb completely off. removed choke linkage. stil sticking. Remove secondary linkage, still sticking. Remove all linkage to inspect worn area, none. However, I did find an area where the primary butterfly was rubbing against side of champer next to the shaft. Reassymble all linkage, installed carb. everything was good, for awhile, than started sticking again.

 

I bought a brand name carb to get away from this kind of stuff. LOL

 

Larry

[datsunaholic]

Yes, but if you overtighten the linkage nut or the base plate by a lot you can warp the chambers, which causes sticking. The fact that it's sticking near the shaft usually means the shaft nut got really torqued down. The aluminum body is pretty thin and warps easily.

 

Or, it was a real bad casting. In any case, you need to clearance out where it's binding. Can do that with sandpaper. But too much and it'll never idle.

[motavated]

 

Get a locknut and leave it sorta loose. I had that problem. Not anymore!

[yello620]

 

Get a locknut and leave it sorta loose. I had that problem. Not anymore!

 

 

This is what works for me too, I think tha the thread is 8 x 1.00mm. That thread in a nylock nut is kinda hard to find though. The nylock nuts are too tall though, so i file down the backside of them so the nut is not as tall. Works excellent.

[Farmer]

it was pretty tight from the factory when I loosened it the first time. I look more into it later on.

 

Larry

[tjyak50]

On my Webers I had a problem when I would SLAM the throttle to the floor and the throttles would go too far and bend the little arm.

Until I put a massive bolt in the floor as the primary Full Open stop the linkage was constantly fucked up.

 

Probably not related to your issues, but it was an issue for me.

Darn weber linkages are sensitive.

 

 

[HRH]

I always used the little round wing tab with the flap that fits over the shaft, then you bend the tab up with a side on the nut to keep the nut from going anywhere. Should have come with the Weber, if not, use the factory one off the old hitachi.