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  • 2 months later...
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The axcess, may look like a early, fucked-up crossover-but don't deny that the potential is there.

And that JDM Pulsar GTI-R you displayed. That is cool, and far from ugly. And nowhere near compares to the EXA.

This is the ugly one I speak of.

pulsarexa.jpg

^^^^^^that is kinda cool^^^^^^^

 

That is hideous

v v v v V v v v v

 

you mean this one?

1988_Nissan_Pulsar_NX_SE_Sportbak_1.jpg

1988_Nissan_Pulsar_NX_SE_Sportbak.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys, hadn't been around on here for awhile. Build hasn't stopped, it's moved along quite a bit, actually. I scrapped the panda shell for another black shell and upgraded to the ca18et sohc turbo motor instead of the poopy ca20e. I ended up scrapping the panda s12 chassis altogether, though.

DSC_4578.jpg

 

During this process, I realized just how much I dislike the rear trailing arm suspension design of the s12. It's actually even worse than my BMW e36 was, and is nearly identical to the BMW e30 was. I'm not sure why Nissan went with such a bad design after the s30 chassis' great suspension, but I'm unwilling to just accept that it sucks. So I decided to replace it with an s13 rear subframe:

 

DSC_7724.JPG

 

The major problem here is that the s12's strut towers are very very narrow, and won't accommodate the s13's coilover design. The solution? Cantilevered pushrods (I'll go over the advantages of this later, if anyone wants).

 

Step 1 is to fabricate mounts though, so I started the mockup and a bit of measuring/fabrication here on the panda s12:

DSC_7757.JPG

 

I also ordered a few suspension components (I really only need 2 for right now):

2011-07-12_15-39-37_970.jpg

 

 

In the meantime, I fixed a few minor issues with the black turbo s12, like installing a proper shifter (with a knob!) and a dash:

2011-06-13_14-33-09_213.jpg

 

 

My motor mounts were awfully wobbly, so I replaced them as well:

DSC_7644.JPG

 

 

Then I cleaned up the donor subframe and por15'd it:

DSC_4562.jpg

 

 

But then a short fried the fuel relay, and I had to pull the main body harness from the black one (which I've been daily driving):

2011-06-07_11-51-31_567.jpg

 

 

... but I'm colorblind, so I need help replacing the wires that had shorted out. And there you have it, a bit of a build thread. Questions so far?

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are you ever on Club-S12.org?

 

I am indeed:

My club-s12 profile

 

I had a ka24de that I rebuilt for this project, but I just didn't have anywhere to store it so I scrapped it after rebuilding it. The plan was to slap my Mikuni carbs on it, plop it in, and call it done. The only real problem with that plan was sorting out the ignition system, since it depended upon the fuel system to work properly. I suppose I don't have to worry about that now, though!

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  • 1 month later...

All right, I've missed you guys. It's been too long, and there's so much to update about. The cantilever rods are on order, and I've prototyped the pivots (no pics yet). I ended up rewiring the body harness completely, and have dropped 415lbs from the car so far, while keeping it inspectable. I just got it running again this week (wiring when you're colorblind takes a lot longer than it should, and the FSM had a half dozen typos that really confused the hell out of me). The plan is to just stick with the ca18et for awhile and finish sorting the suspension setup before I go through with any kind of swap. This engine has lasted for 250,000 miles so far, and still runs, so even if the ca18et is gutless and un-buildable, I like it for what it is.

 

I decided to start looking into what it'll need to get a little more 'oomph' out of it for now, and ran a compression test. I ended up with

65psi/130psi/140psi/155psi

Not great, on any of those. I'm trying to decide if I should just drive it as-is or crack the head off tomorrow. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking it could be rings (very likely), valve seats (also very likely), a loose spark plug (there are 2 plugs per cylinder, which is just silly), valves (not quite as likely, but certainly possible), head gasket (if it's bad, it's not completely mangled).

 

Some pictures (I'm not sure why so many of the old pictures are broken now, I'll go through and fix them soon):

DSC_0154.png

 

 

Yes, this is my daily driver, and yes, this is an acceptable level of creature comfort. I'll secure all the wiring, switch panel, and gauges before taking it on the road though:

DSC_0183.png

 

 

Other things I did today that don't have pictures:

  • Brake bleeding
  • Measuring-tape alignment
  • Battery relocation wiring
  • AC system removal
  • Headlight rebuild (both lights)
  • Wiring routing and covering, and started on the project of securing the wiring in semi-permanent locations
  • Removal of rear bumper to repair reverse light wiring (incomplete)
  • Vac line consolidation
  • o2 sensor wiring
  • Front marker light cleanup/resealing
  • Oil change
  • Coolant flush
  • Timing-by-ear

There is still a ton of work to take care of, but I'm getting closer to 'completion' every day. I'm not sure if I want to risk cracking the engine open to find out what's wrong, as sourcing new valves has proven VERY difficult, and I don't have a replacement head gasket on-hand. I may source a ka24de swap locally to prep for dropping into this, or just order gaskets/rings/lapping-compound for the ca18et and rebuild it over next weekend (assuming it doesn't need a hone)

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...and ran a compression test. I ended up with

65psi/130psi/140psi/155psi

 

Check valve lash. If ok squirt a few teaspoon fuls of motor oil in the combustion chamber. If the re-test compression check is noticeably higher then the rings are pooched.

 

a loose spark plug (there are 2 plugs per cylinder, which is just silly), valves (not quite as likely, but certainly possible), head gasket (if it's bad, it's not completely mangled).

 

This motor is another member of the NAPS system and the plugs are a great idea for shortening the burn time. Shorter burn time means less advance and more efficient burning.

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Check valve lash. If ok squirt a few teaspoon fuls of motor oil in the combustion chamber. If the re-test compression check is noticeably higher then the rings are pooched.

 

 

I've been going through the FSM for the past hour and just saw that suggestion. What great advice, I can't believe I've never done that before!

 

This motor is another member of the NAPS system and the plugs are a great idea for shortening the burn time. Shorter burn time means less advance and more efficient burning.

 

They make maintaining the engine more difficult though, which is what I care about most at this very moment. So at this very moment, it's a silly idea (subject to change if/when I want anything different).

 

I've been trying to hunt down replacement head studs/bolts, but have been completely unsuccessful. Summit, Rockauto, Napa, Autozone have all come back with nothing to offer. My understanding has always been that head bolts/studs stretch when installed, which means re-using them is a VERY bad idea. What I don't know is whether or not doing nothing is less bad.

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They make maintaining the engine more difficult though, which is what I care about most at this very moment. So at this very moment, it's a silly idea (subject to change if/when I want anything different).

 

It's only 4 extra plugs and their wires. If they are silly, take the wires off and see how she runs then.

 

 

 

All head bolts are re-usable. Assuming they are in good shape. Block threads should be clean, bolt threads wiped with oily rag and a drop of oil on top of washer.

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It's only 4 extra plugs and their wires. If they are silly, take the wires off and see how she runs then.

 

Not well. Not well at all. The only real issue I have with it is finding somewhere to keep the second coil. The wiring was a pretty nasty mess when I first picked up the car, and it's been a lot of work cleaning it up thus far.

 

All head bolts are re-usable. Assuming they are in good shape. Block threads should be clean, bolt threads wiped with oily rag and a drop of oil on top of washer.

 

That's good enough for me. I'll run the compression test again tomorrow with a squirt of oil in each cylinder and may just order a head gasket and possibly rings, valve springs, valve seats, valve lapping compound, ... whatever seems to be the solution to my precious compression going all over the place.

 

I've also been toying with the ka24de idea more, since they basically just fall out of the front of cars/trucks here every day. I definitely like the idea of refreshing one at my leisure then swapping it in when I'm good and ready rather than trying to rush the ca18et refresh in a weekend.

 

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Headlights are in. I'll take care of getting everything to the same color later, right now I'm purely focused on winter-proofing the whole vehicle. Lots of grinding and sandblasting to get rid of rust, then covering with self-etching/sealing primer, then a quick coat of clear to keep the rust from coming back right away.

DSC_0222.png

 

I also took it for a few quick drives around my neighborhood and would consider it 'as safe as any other s12' (all the wiring is secured down, seat belts and seats are installed, and important components like the ECU and gauge cluster are either bolted or zip tied down. By the end of the weekend, I think I'll be ready to get it inspected (new tires, reverse light wiring, and a horn switch are still needed). Then I can call this thing a reliable daily driver (while I hunt down an inexpensive new engine [ka24de?] to swap in).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent some time shooting my buddy's AW11. He got me excited to finish my suspension up, and get this thing riding really nicely. The cantilever design is complete, and I'm ready to start prototyping final designs, and might even end up selling them as a kit afterward. There are almost no bolt-in rear suspension options for the s12 or the z31, and that's what prompts most owners to move on to move to a different chassis altogether. They do look kind of cool side-by-side though, don't they? I'll lower my s12 a couple inches once I have all the proper geometry measured out.

drivendaily_DSC_0659.png

 

I have also been considering the old carb'd Ford 2.3 liter inline 4's, with my rack of Mikuni BST38ss carbs off my old GSXR750. They're GREAT carbs, and with a mediocre intake and exhaust setup, I should be able to hit an easy 150whp while having all the tuning options I could possibly want.

 

I'll have to write a bit about WHY I like carbs so much, since everybody I mention this to seems to think carbs are a massive step backward, in terms of power and efficiency. While EFI offers a higher ultimate threshold of tuning, carbs get me to the point where I have 90% of the same options at 1/10th of the price and complexity. Instead of having to buy a new ECU, extra o2 sensors, wiring in the knock sensor, new injectors, a new fuel pump, and several new gauges (around $2000 worth of gear)...

 

I get a rack of carbs ($100), a carb fuel pressure regulator (drops pressure down to 7-10psi for around $25), a vac gauge (already have one, but they're $25 for a mediocre one), a set of jets ($50 for main and idle jets, which are really all I need), and I'll spring for a wideband o2 sensor to save myself hours of time that I'd otherwise have to spend reading spark plugs.

 

But aside from that awesome level of control, if something goes wrong with an EFI system, I need to break out the manual, test light, and soldering iron. If something goes wrong with a rack of carbs, I can shake a stick at them menacingly and get them working again. I MAY need a can of carb cleaner and a cereal box, in a worst case scenario.

 

I added a sticker to it as well, which is normally something I'm completely opposed to, but couldn't resist the Darth Vader on my overly-80's-looking car.

 

drivendaily_DSC_0671.png

 

So I suppose that's all for today. It's snowing like the sky has gone batshit insane, and we really hadn't expected it to start this early in the season, so there's wood splitting to do and plant-covering to take care of. 'till next time!

 

2011-10-29_17-10-16_300.jpg

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

No cheap tires, but I ended up getting new ones. It's running 10psi on the ca18et, and I don't dare go any higher than that on it. I had to sort out a few suspension issues with things not being attached completely (unsecured sway bars make some very interesting noises!), but it's served me very well as a daily. Just ordered all my supplies for a new exhaust. As soon as they come in, I'll be sure to get some before/after video of it, comparing the current 6" muffler to the new 2.25" downpipe-back exhaust.

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