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First 510


Bunchy

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got 250- 350$ bucks. do coil overs

 

bell tech bolcoks are cheap. they have 1,2 and 39with 2 deg slant for diff angle)

 

I would go 3 inch but ZNot sure ow muchtravel you loose untill you hit the tunnel. that why I say go with 2 in back and drope the front maybe 3. But you have a common year which has most like like the longer strut. thus you can only cut the stock spring so much untill you bottom out then that chear alternator bolt in the L16 as they are smaller(unless you got a L18/20 in there and they have bigger alternator bolts.

 

ask another Datsun guy to help you out locally. this is the best way to learn and dont be in a rush.

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I have 850$ to spend on my goon so i wanna lower it or get a Ka24

 

 

Get some enjoyment out of your rig before you go jumping into a motor swap. We've all had to surfer L series in our life. It's your turn to put in a year or two. That way you will appreciate the beauty of EFI and the low end torque of a 2.4L. Get it to daily driver status fix, the little things then when your sure you've read everything there is to know about a KA swap, read more then decide if that's the route you want to go.

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I would go suspension, drop that ride, plus when you do get around to doing a Ka or sr, vg or even rb swap Wich are heavier motors, your upgraded suspension will be able to handle the bigger load.

 

 

Or do a brake upgrade too, it's great and important to get these done if your really planning on doing a bigger power plant

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I think I should sell my 510 convertable and get this wagon.Its clean and straight.

 

You know how to use a volt meter/ohm meter and test light? Learn that first before even thinging about a motor swap. and plan on spending 2k to do it right. Otherwise just drive it.

 

Man I love this car, cant believe it made it almost 40years and never hit thru snow and ice on the road ect...

 

 

this car should be garaged

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Get some 280zx struts and brakes. Shortenthe struts to take 200sx inserts or MR2 or Rabbit. Get coil overs and camber plates. And while everything is apart see if you need or just go ahead and replace balljoints, tierod ends, an basically anything else you may need. That'll take care of the front. Better suspension and better brakes.

 

The rear, lowering blocks as described above.

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Bunchy

Cut 1.5 coils and see low that looks. Wont cost you anything. Dont go any more as the long strut(if that what you have) will bottom out sooner.

 

Might be a MOFO to take out as the spring is so long.best to have a good toolset at least a Craftsman.

 

Pull the brake calipers place them to the side. 17mm

pull the lower 2 bolts to A arm

3 bolts on top of strut.

 

If you never hit the brake you can slide the caliper back on when re assembling.

 

But it me I would put new brakes on and get new shocks but that me. I dont know what strut size you have but assume the common long strut.

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  • 2 weeks later...

First lots of PB blaster. Over the use of the day. Hit the back side as well. But I will tell you this. That bolt head will shear off. If you can get the socket on just take it off. You might need vise grips. Once the head has sheared, pull the fender off, and use the vise grips on the remaining portion of the bolt on the back side.

 

I had 4 bolts on each fender simply shear off.

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