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Why is it so hard to find Ujoints?


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I've been looking EVERYwhere for them and haven't found them for my '81 210.

 

 

Autozone: N/A

Oriellys: "Uhh all I show is spindle bolt set"

Advance: "Datsun, did Chevy have something to do with that?"

Napa: Closed currently.

RockAuto: not shown on parts list.

Nissan: Parts is closed.

 

 

 

 

 

Anyone know where these can be found? unsure.gif Or maybe another vehicle that uses the same ones? I need them ASAP! I have a severe shuddering in the driveline.

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I've heard somewhere that it's either for the 210 or b210, that U-joints are very difficult to find. A parts guy was telling me about someone that scrapped their car because the U-joint was bad.. he didn't want to go to a wrecking yard to pull a driveline, so it was his "only option". So wasteful.

 

I think if you're resourceful enough, you could modify the driveline to accept different U-joints, if it came down to it... or you could scrap the car(don't you dare).

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Aren't the B-210/210 u joints pressed in and 'non re-placable'?? You will have to dremel the staking out, source a replacement joint and find a way to secure them in there so the drive shaft doesn't go off center..

 

http://forums.hybrid...-in-30-minuets/

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23222-280z-datsun-nissan-non-replaceable-ujoint-replacement-where-to-go-to-fix-for-just-103-in-30-minuets/

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Just had the same issue with my RT4WD, can't get carrier bearings anymore for it anywhere. Friend of mine found me a guy in Colorado that took it and completely modified it so that it would use off the shelf parts but still bolt right back into place like stock. I'll get the info from him on this and post his contact info, it was reasonably priced too, with shipping back and forth, tax and everything it came out to $375 for the rebuild (rebalanced too)

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The 210/B210 U-joints can easily be pressed out by normal methods (press or similar)

The replacement is a common 220-0045 (I think, I measured them last week and need to verify that). Here is a list of u-joint specs to help:

http://www.gmb.net/h..._Dimensions.pdf

 

I have been working on starting to make up rebuilt driveshafts but haven't gotten there yet.

 

One thing that I have found is that when we modify the driveshaft for a Morris Minor to accept a Datsun 210 transmission we make one that is exactly the correct length (54.5") for the common 210/B210 AND it has easily replaceable u-joints, it bolts in perfectly.

I only have one of these right now but am trying to make up some more.

 

BillM

 

Correction- that driveshaft length is 52 1/2" long- Bill

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  • 4 weeks later...

So what's the trick to removing the ujoints and fitting the 'specialty' joints?

 

1974 B210 manual transmission is 1334mm long (52-1/2 inch) -- same as Datsun 1200.

1975-1978 B210 manual transmission driveshaft is 1330mm long (a little less than 52-3/8 inch). The B210 auto driveshaft is almost 53" long.

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The original caps are staked. Two ways. Find or modify a hole saw that is the correct

diameter and carefully cut the stakes out, or just drive the cap past the stake. Support

the cross on a vise and hit the yoke to drive out the cap. Never hit the tube or the ear

on the outside edge!! Hit the Yoke at it strongest point, between the cap and the weld.

Cap should drive right out.Once both caps are out, go back in with a dremel tool or a

small rat tail file and smoothout any of the remaining stake that intrudes into the bore

where the cap has to be pressed back in. Install the new joint like you would any other.

Except this time the cap will be retained by inside snap rings. Its pretty staright forward.

One thing to note before any of this attempted. Make sure the inside of the ears of the yoke

are cast or machined flat, perpendicular to the cross of the joint. The snap ring on the new

joint needs to sit flat against the inside of the ear. There are some yokes that are cast at an angle, the new

snap ring would only touch in one spot. these yokes are nonservicable. Nothing you can safely do.

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You could also just use a 510 driveline. I cut the end off of a 210 driveline to use it as a trans plug. The 210 [a-motor] driveline was shorter but you could get the 510 sedan one shortened and then just not have this issue anymore. Just a thought.

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I took an 82 210 drive line and still to this day use it as a plug. Though the car wasn't running when I pulled it. So I can't say it was a working drive line. However its worth a shot. I know I pulled it out of the A series transmission though.

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I've hoarded away a few drivelines just for the fact that you couldn't source them years ago. My dad chunked his but found one parked in the woods crawled under and made a switch one day and it worked fine. I have the driveline still for a 4 speed 210 but shipping would be a bitch.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had a simmular issue when i needed to extend my driveshaft and change the u joints. My drivetrain is from a 1989 300zx. One place wouldnt extended becuase on of the joints were bad, and were (as they say) not replaceable.

 

I found a local DRIVESHAFT place that actually made me a whole new driveshaft that now usees thee most common Cheverolet u joints and still fits my rear differential. They explained to me that they CAN replace the bad u joint, BUT since my engine is stronger (VG30ET) than the stock 510 engine, they dont recomend using stock u joints since whatever is available out therefor replacement u joints is junk that isnt even as strong as the OEM joints.

 

So they made me a whole new driveshaft to the longer length that i needed, which now uses Chevy u joints, AND is 3" diameter which is stronger, fully balanced and painted all for $175. It fitted perfectly, and turnaround was from one day to the next.

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On the one they made me, it included a new yoke that went into the Nissan trans, and allowed the use of the chevy joints. It was complete bolt on when i got it back from them, just slid it right into the trans, and bolted up perfectly into the rearend.

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