Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Ok, I Got A Weber, Completely Rebuilt It, Slapped It On My Truck And It Started, But Didn't Idle I Had A Few Vacuum Leaks And Got Rid Of Them, Messed With The Carb And Now It Idles At 900-950ish I Don't Think I Have Anymore Leaks But If I Do It's So Small I Can Hear It... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1WyqQ66Cqw As For The Black Spots On My Driveway, Those Went Away After Playing With The Carb. I Have Plugged These... Is It Necessary To Remove This And Cover It With A Plate?? I Have This Fuel Pump.... Also What Is This??? Not Shown In Any Of The Weber Part Explosions :huh: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 That last pic is cut off switch, you turn the engine off, it pops out and stops gas from going in. keeps it from deiseling. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) The "thing" is the anti dieseling solenoid. It has to be connected to switched 12V. ^^ Thats EGR. If it's not connected then you can just remove it and make a blockoff plate.May not help your problem here, but it would look better then now. Not really much of a reason to remove it though if it's not causing a problem though eh? Try swapping fuel pumps. I just had a friend with an '87 Mustang that had an issue with it stalling after running about 30 minuets. It would gradually start missing, then stall and wouldn't run again. New fuel pump and tadaaaaaaa Edited March 9, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Yes, if that's not connected it won't idle undr 1200 RPM or so. Just connect that to the 12V IGN. Nope, just like you got it will run super. It's the EGR valve Is It Necessary To Remove This And Cover It With A Plate?? Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Ok, So What Fuel Pump Are You Guys Running On An L20b W/ Weber 32/36? Or Would It Be Better To Get A Fuel Pressure Regulator? :unsure: If So What Kind Are You Guys Running?? Quote Link to comment
H20doctor Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 i run the stock fuel pump on my L20... i also run a 510 intake manifold on my webber , and got rid of all that vacuume stuff that is on the stock L20 trucks , egr , and the one that runs down the the exhaust manifild , except the vaccume line that goes from the distributor to the side of the carb... also to check for intake leaks take a can of starting fluid and spray it on a " COLD " engine where the intake goes on the head, if you have a intake leak the engine will gain RPM.. I have a 32 36 webber on my L20.. also check the back of the carb where your throttle cable goes in , the is an idle adjustment there, you may need to adjust that screw to it raised your idle up... your automatic choke might be warming all the way , and that causes the engine to die , so try adjusting the cam on the throttle cable, you can also cover the carb with your hand , when the chock is fully open.. just My 2 cents Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Yeah, I Sprayed Starter Fluid Everywhere, No RPM Changes :cool: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 i run the stock fuel pump on my L20... i also run a 510 intake manifold on my webber , and got rid of all that vacuume stuff that is on the stock L20 trucks , egr , and theone that runs down the the exhaust manifild , except the vaccume line that goes from the distributor to the side of the carb... also to check for intake leaks take a can of starting fluid and spray it on a cold enginewhere the intake goes on the head, if you have a intake leak the engine will gain RPM.. I have a 32 36 webber on my L20 That stuff is pure ether. It's highly flammable/explosive. That's not exactly a good idea on a hot engine. Brake parts cleaner works a similar way. Except it will stall the engine. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 The Engine Was Cold Lol... :lol: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Ok, So What Fuel Pump Are You Guys Running On An L20b W/ Weber 32/36? Or Would It Be Better To Get A Fuel Pressure Regulator? :unsure: If So What Kind Are You Guys Running?? You can always get a cheap fuel pressure gauge for a few bucks and watch your fuel pressure. If it drops when your engine starts to stall out, theres your problem. Quote Link to comment
H20doctor Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 id never recommend a hot engine..Yes it could ignite , that would be bad :D Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 I used the stock Datsun carb. They are exactly the right pressure for a Weber. I also used a 4-psi electric pump. No regulator needed. Quote Link to comment
H20doctor Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 if it was a fuel pump issue it wouldnt run at all,... or run rough and then die when you gave it gas,Or not run at all Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Just Read On A Website My Fuel Pump Ranges From 2-11.5 PSI Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 In that case, monkey's recommendation sounds right on target: Borrow or buy a $5 sears fuel pump tester. If it's more than 5 psi correct it. If it's 3-5 psi then you know its correct and don't have to buy a regulator. A lot of guys with cheap regulators have had problem where removing them runs better! Time to stop guessing and start testing :) Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 In that case, monkey's recommendation sounds right on target: Borrow or buy a $5 sears fuel pump tester. If it's more than 5 psi correct it. If it's 3-5 psi then you know its correct and don't have to buy a regulator. A lot of guys with cheap regulators have had problem where removing them runs better! Time to stop guessing and start testing :) +1 ,,, Cheapo Regulators are a no-no ,,, more head-ache's than worth ,,, I have used the Holley Regulators with good results so far this past year :) Except My brother's DUAL Weber DGV's on his Z car (32/36) ,,, Do not run right past 4psi and ( 2.5-4 psi ) ( with a good regulator and low PSI pump verified with fuel pressure gauge ) :) ,,, nothing but headache's above 5-6psi that we noticed :) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 if it was a fuel pump issue it wouldnt run at all,... or run rough and then die when you gave it gas,Or not run at all That's not 100% correct. Some fuel pumps are okay until they warm up. I've seen several pumps that work great for a few minuets, but after they start to warm up the fuel pressure gradually drops until the vehicle won't run. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 So.... Today I Went To Autozone And "Borrowed" A Fuel Pressure Testing Kit :cool: 165 Punches In The Face :( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnp3I60SwEQ Tested It Next To The Weber And Got 0 The Whole Time Tested It Next To The Fuel Pump And Got 1.5ish So... I'm Assuming I Have A Bad Fuel Pump That Doesn't Work On My Weber But Somehow Worked On My Hitachi.... :huh: Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Never mind. My post is irrelevant now.... Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 I Don't Have A Stock Fuel Pump, I Have A Shitty Universal One.... :mellow: Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) That gauge seems too big to me if you're trying to measure less than 10lbs pressure. Can't believe it'll actually detect less than 5lbs. Pete Edited March 10, 2011 by ppeters914 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 It may have worked on the Hitachi because it used less fuel. Larger Weber with bigger jets requires more fuel that the pump couldn't provide. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 are you 100% sure the tank hasn't clogged the outlet (to engine) with debris or a starving fuel tank filter sock ? clogged fuel filter before fuel pump (if you have one) ? Cheapy electric fuel pumps are never to be trusted 100% :lol: Just throwing out some idears ,,, :) Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Yeah... I've Already Checked When I Fist Bought The Truck, That Fuel Filter Has About 1k On It Anybody Know What Pump Would Be Nice For A L20b Daily Driver? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Yeah... I've Already Checked When I Fist Bought The Truck, That Fuel Filter Has About 1k On It Anybody Know What Pump Would Be Nice For A L20b Daily Driver? Ok ,,, so you when did you buy ur truck :huh: ? I ALWAYs ,,, run a regulator ,,, on my cheapy electric pumps ,,, I run a carter electric on my Z car works fine so far :) Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.