Dirk Diggler Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Schedule a smog appointment, then drive the shit out of it right up until you have to be there. I have friends who's cars failed and they did this and would pass, though just barely Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Schedule a smog appointment, then drive the shit out of it right up until you have to be there. I have friends who's cars failed and they did this and would pass, though just barely I had a friends BMW that failed smog a few times. The next time he went he held his car at 6000rpm for a few minutes on the freeway before going through. He passed with the inspector saying "this is the cleanest bmw I have seen." What this does is get your cat glowing nice and hot so it burns absolutely everything so there are no emissions to pick up. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Put a can of SeaFoam in your gas tank. It should clean the injectors up pretty nicely, so if one's stuck open it may help with that. You may also try the "SeaFoam Treatment" through the intake. My 610 was running great before, then I did that. Runs even smoother now. Start with the basics. It's the least expensive, and usually that will fix your problem. Adjust those valves; usually the problem comes from them being to tight, not too loose. If they're too tight, they won't be making any noise, so you can't go just by that. ;) Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Yes, that's what my friend's been telling me to do. But do you think that would do enough to pass my car? I mean the CO is really ridiculous, you'll see. and doesn't the cat only burn HC? And about the seafoam, I have a can sitting at home right now. What I'm worried about is that the carbon is holding the engine together, and that I'll have leaks when I use it. Should I just go for it anyways? Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Definitely adjust valves it`s REAL easy , have adjusted valves on cars and it acted like someone had installed new engine! And the drive it like you stole it method that Laecaon mentioned does help,, Maybe NOT " 6000 rpms for a few minutes " but definitely blow the bugs out on the freeway and get it nice and hot.. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 what sucks is its the SELLERS responsability in Ca to smog the car......if you did throw in the towel (I dont think you should) you could get your $ back. Do you need to take it to a test only? PM me the details of where you have to smog it. I might be able to help. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 i really want to see this smog sheet Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 My smog results: 1st- 2nd- and while I'm at it, this was a test from 2003: Passed with flying colors! Sorry they're not too clear. Ok now I'm off to work. Thanks everyone for the help, I really appreciate it! Keep it coming! Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 is the thermostat still stuck open? if so, get a new one put in there...... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 that co is high and nox is almost non existant this is the same issue i kept comming across in the 610 when i was dealing with smog she be running to rich man ive never messed with z car efi but i remember the big thing behind the air filter (cant remember the exact name) could cause a rich running motor and they had issues alot i think i would start there after the seafoam treatment you also have to take into account that your fighting a loosing battle smog isnt really about clean air its about getting old cars off the road so you go buy new ones the proof is in the smog specs according to the specs in the computers old cars like ours are "expected" to run cleaner then a new car ive seen the smog specs for a 2000 or so sentra and it could pump out DOUBLE what my L20B was allowed before it was considered a fail Quote Link to comment
Z Speed Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 I feel your pain. Not that I have to smog my car, but just the fact that this (see below) has been sitting in my garage for almost 20 years; last started in almost 10. I know she runs though. Just to lazy, busy, and I have other toys to play with to bother.... Rolled it out to give it a wash. First sunlight in about 18-20 years: One day, maybe this summer, I'll drop the tank and go through the car just to get it road worthy again. Don't give up. The pleasure of driving one isn't even explainable. Keep you eye on the prize. Good luck and welcome to Ratsun..... :) *EDIT* Damn spelling Gremlins *&*^*^...... Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 NONE of these show a PASS.... My smog results: 1st- http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd16/Lliang77/sc.jpg 2nd- http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd16/Lliang77/sc0000.jpg and while I'm at it, this was a test from 2003: Passed with flying colors! Sorry they're not too clear. Ok now I'm off to work. Thanks everyone for the help, I really appreciate it! Keep it coming! Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 oh sorry! Here's the passing one: Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Fixer, I PM'd you And yeah I did change out the thermostat, weird thing is, I tested the old one and it was working... but the car is warming up pretty slow... You mean the air flow meter? Yeah, I found out that I have the wrong one installed on my car, and I don't know which one I need... I really don't want to give up on this car though. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 I will lok into it for you. But I'm sure it could help to get the right MAF on it.... Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Z speed, that's a great looking car. I really hope both our Z's will back on the road soon. Thanks, and good luck to you too! Thanks fixer, it's just that there are 3 different afm cores for my year, and I don't know how to tell which one mine originally used. Quote Link to comment
hellamikey Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Check for vacuum leaks! that will cause everything to go to shit. Set the timing at around 8 degres advance, idle speed at like 1100, full tank of premium and make sure that thing is up to op-temp ( I like the high rpm freeway run technique also) if you have some leeway with HC, you can always put some alcohol in the tank. it'll clean up the CO at the expense of HC ( in my experience) if that doesn't do it, you can always go into the AFM and adjust it manually... good luck AND FOR GOD'S SAKE DONT THROW IN THE TOWEL! theres nothing like the feeling you have when you get one of these cars set up. when it passes you're gonna want to throw a freaking party. hang in there, we're all here to give you advice/help you troubleshoot. Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 I heard that vacuum leaks would cause a lean condition due to air leaking into the system, thus causing less fuel injected into the mixture? And I don't know which way is advance vs retard! But I'm curious to know, how would increasing the idle speed help my case? Would the AFM adjustment be able to compensate for my using the wrong AFM? I have heard of pouring seafoam into the intake, but I don't understand, how am I supposed to feed it in there? I can't disconnect the boot of the AFM, the engine would just die... Thanks everyone for the encouragement! Now I just have to wait for the rain to stop<_< Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 If you turn the distributor and the engine speeds up, you've advanced it. If you turn it and the engine slows down, you've retarded it. Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 oouuu ok. Hmm, but I thought engine speed would not be affected, because base timing is set at a specific rpm, i.e. idle speed set by idle screw? I am also not sure which one would help lean the mixture.. Also, I've just gotten a question from my chem teacher, and it says that the catalytic converter is also supposed to combust CO into CO2... do you guys think it would help to get a new cat on as well? Quote Link to comment
herculesinwyoming Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 a new cat sounds like a good idea, who knows how many hours are on the old one check the gap on the plugs, you cant assume the po did it right some times i wonder about the change in fuels, ethanol blends, and all that may affect emissions on an old car Quote Link to comment
herculesinwyoming Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 go read this and scroll down a bit to the failed test part http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr1196.htm Quote Link to comment
ll77 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 I gapped and installed the plugs myself, so I think the plugs should be ok. I'll probably shop for a new cat soon then. I guess it's not true that it only helps for hydrocarbons then. Thanks for the link! I just set my ignition timing today, I advanced it to 12 BTDC, because I heard that advancing the spark would give the mixture more time to burn more completely before the exhaust stroke begins. I doubt that I should feel the difference, but I will find out tomorrow. Tonight, I will study for an AFM a/f ratio adjustment Quote Link to comment
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