Need help with starter problem

[650savag]

Does anyone have an idea about what is going on with the starter on my 78, 620. Twice this winter (very cold mornings) it would not even grunt. When I turn the key on, I get the dash lights, elec. fuel pump, and everything seems normal, but when I turn the key to crank, it would not even make a sound. Not even a click? I would turn the key off and jump in my other truck and go to work and when I got home in the afternoon, I would hook up the charger and it shows full charge? The truck would crank just fine when I got home. This has happened twice and I'm thinking the solenoid or brushes in the starter. I've checked all the connections to the starter and baterry cables and connections. Any other good ideas before I pull the starter off? Thanks in advance. Dan (650Savag)

[hang_510]

sounds like a bad/weak/dirty connection.

try tapping the soleniod first and retry.

or shorting it w/a screwdriver across the connections and see if it cranks=weak connections.

clean them up regardless.

 

 

:D i dont have to deal w/ the cold, and wet all the time :mellow:

[]2eDeYe]

I know I had sorta the same problem once. Except the weather didn't matter.

 

Turned out that the screws holding the solenoid together were loose. :blink:

[datzenmike]

Sounds like my first wife: On cold mornings she would turn over, and then not start.:D

 

 

Next time it doesn't work try like Brian sez (hang-510) If it cranks... then no, or not enough voltage is getting to the solenoid from the ign. to work it.

 

The starter solenoid gets its +12 volt signal from the ign. switch, which is 5-6 ft of small gauge wire away. Not to mention that the ign. switch gets it's 12 volts from way over at the right front fender battery location. The wires and ign. switch are 30 years old too.

 

What you could do is run a 12 volt wire from the starter lug, to a relay near the starter. Have the relay energized by the ign. switch when you turn to start and have a full 12 volts from the relay feed directly to the starter solenoid. Sort of a solenoid for the solenoid.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I bought a 280z gear reduction starter it was abou 2 yrs old. I just had a loose connection at the starter lug.

 

do the ez stuff 1st

 

Ck connections esp those shitty bolt it togehter battery cables that clamp the ends on(Get rid of them when possible)

get new molded end type cables.

 

you can put in a selinoid to give the starter full 12v to trip it.

[650savag]

I bought a 280z gear reduction starter it was abou 2 yrs old. I just had a loose connection at the starter lug.

 

do the ez stuff 1st

 

Ck connections esp those shitty bolt it togehter battery cables that clamp the ends on(Get rid of them when possible)

get new molded end type cables.

 

you can put in a selinoid to give the starter full 12v to trip it.

 

Now that you mention the battery cables, I remember several months back that I had to take the positive one apart and clean and reconnect everything because the small wire going to the starter wasn't getting good connection where it clamps together with the battery cable at the post. I also like that direct solenoid drawings. I'll check out all these good suggestions from everyone. I'll post when I get to the bottom of this. Thanks everyone. Dan

[Figbuck]

All good tips. Trouble shooting is a process of eliminations. Like hainz says, "do the ez stuff 1st". "Ck connections esp those shitty bolt it togehter battery cables that clamp the ends on(Get rid of them when possible)

get new molded end type cables.

 

What you describe was happening to me too. I checked every little thing but really it was the battery. It turned out that my battery was at the end of it's service life. When it is warm, it is easy for the electrolyte to work, but when it's cold the chemical reaction is not making enough current to even make the solenoids click.

 

It seems to me that the new batteries don't last very long any more. I went through three new batteries in a month. I had an electrical gremlin and it would drain the battery over night. In the beginning, if I could get it to fire the first crank, the alt. would charge it back up. If I drove it all the time, I never had a problem.

 

If I left it long enough to drain the battery dead, I would have to charge it or jump it. Every time I went some where or came home I had to disco the battery. If I forgot, it would be dead.

 

I could only drain the battery down a few times and the charger would charge it or it would run/charge off the alt., but then it just didn't have the current to crank the starter. Took it to the store and they said it was toast and gave me another new battery under warranty. After the the third one it was getting ridiculous. They told me that the the new electrolytes are chemically changed when they go dead. The voltage might be there but no amps.

 

Now I get batteries that have the most cold cranking amperage that I can fit on the battery rack. They cost more but always start no matter how cold it is and they lasts me six to ten years if I never leave my headlights on and drain them dead.

[650savag]

Thanks for all the good tips. I still haven't found the culprit yet because the truck has been starting good lately. The next time it acts up, maybe I will have time to troubleshoot the problem. Usually when it happens, I'm always in a hurry to get to work or somewhere else and I just jump in my other truck and take off and when I come back it usually cranks right up. I have an idea that it is probably the cable again. I need to go ahead and buy a good molded one. I'm pretty sure the battery is fine. It always checks out good even when the problem occurs with the starter. I'll post again when I can find the culprit. Thanks, Dan