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Water pump died. (510 with electric fan)


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My water pump died and I would like to find one with the cast impeller and no pressed on fan clutch.


Where can I get one?

I have looked at napa and a few show in the pictures with the cast impeller but they also have the pressed on fan clutch.


Does anyone have part numbers or sources?





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Does it have the cast impeller? If so its exactly what I want.


Does it cross to anything Car Quest or Parts Plus will carry?


There is a Car Quest(Bob's auto Sunnyvale) a few blocks from my house and a Parts Plus(Winchester auto) near the shop where I work on the 510.

The NAPA closed down their Mountain view store about a year ago. Now there is not one near me.



Both Bob's and Winchester are great local stores and I would like to support them if I can.



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Hainz, What do you mean by good anti-freeze? Like high quality? I usually run a bottle of water wetter and distilled water. This is a an SCCA ITC car.


I have been running the Ford Focus Radiator but I have decided that is does not hold much water. It is also not very efficient. I have driven the car on I-5 to thunderhill in 100+ degree heat and it has trouble keeping the engine under 200F at highway speeds. This is measured with an autometer mechanical temp gauge. I have a 180F stant thermostat with the weep hole drilled out to 1/4. I have a 18lbs radiator cap on the high pressure side of the radiator.



I will be upgrading to a 3row champion fiero radiator with the filler cap on the low pressure side. I am going to try and get a nissan thermostat. 18lbs cap. and I will hook the heater coil back up for added cooling when sitting on grid.



Here is a look at the champion fiero radiator.



A friend has one and he really likes it. They are made in the LA area somewhere. They are really think and have good size end tanks just what I am looking for.



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What do you mean by good anti-freeze?


well I would use my antifreeze for ever thinking if its still green that its still good(typical Ratsun owner didnt want to pay 10$ for a gal of antifreeze. I was wrong and my timming cover cavitated in 40K MILES and it was a perfect timming cover. I was running a stamped water pump also which didnt help. My water pump and timming cover looked like temites went thru it and water went in oil behind the pump. it was a tiny hole but once pressureized it flooded in. maybe it didnt help I had it sand blasted maybe there is a coating behind the water pump But it didnt last. then I lookd up anti freeze and it has certain properties to prevent cavitation as most time sthe stat is close and just lets enough water to flow thru other wise the water is just gettn pushed on the aluminum,faster you go the more water getting pushed no where. thus the need of good anti freeze. Thats why they say change thm out every few years.


The cast ones have less angle in the vains.

soembody told me to V notch them to help prevent cavitation but dont know how true that is.I ran water wetter once but didnt know if it has the anticavitation qualities. My yellow 510 would over heat abit and I tried the water wetter. didnt really help on hot days.

Then I find out my lower hose was squeezing down when I revd the motor. I go another hose,a Gates that had the coil spring in them and its OK now

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That is a silla raditor. The company is on Compton California and they are made in CHINA! If they pop you need some one who can fix aluminum...


BTW that is not the part number. But they look like this... Local radiator shop in LA can get it cheap... I can get it cheap if you like and pick it up when you can...


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Do they have side flow versions? Can you get the cap on the right side of a side flow version? How thick is it?


Also can you get some close ups of the welds? How about a close up of the spot for the radiator cap and where the hoses connect too?


Here is the company that makes or has these Champion radiators made.

They are usually around 180 on ebay. I think my friend may have gotten his for 120 from a local dealer near san luis obispo.



This site sells them



They may be totally different radiators.


But if you look they have lots of nice features. And they are way cheaper than Griffin.



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Get a large capacity pump from a Z series motor lik on the 720s and just cut the clutch part off.


The impellers should not have any sharp edges which can cause cavitation at high speeds. These are crap...



These are stock L 4 cylinder...



These have a bigger impeller in a larger cavity...



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It's not really the sharp edges that cause cavitation. The cast iron impellers are just as sharp. It's the pump turning but not moving water. That happens when the flow is restricted, but it also can happen if the pump is being turned too fast. The less efficient the pump is, the greater the risk of cavitation. The faster the pump is being turned against a restricted flow decreases efficiency. The cast iron impellers have the advantage of not allowing quite as much flow around them, so there's less surface area to cause caviatation.


The stamped-steel ones are almost always less efficient, hence the greater tendency to cavitate. And not running enough pressure in the system also causes cavitation (higher pressure means it takes more to cause cavitation).


But if you think the stamped steel ones are bad, try the plastic ones... Thank God I haven't seen one of those on a Datsun pump. Supposedly they have the same efficiency of the Cast impeller, cause less bearing and seal wear, but the impellers have a habit of falling off the shaft.

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Thanks Hainz, Datzenmike and datsunaholic.


I found a cardone 571019 that has a picture with the cast impeller on rock auto.


I will see if my local parts shop can get it.


I will also be doing a radiator upgrade of some type soon. I think this was due to a leak around the water pump gasket and then my water got low quickly because the ford focus radiator does not hold much volume.

I have some timing covers laying around and they are pretty easy to take off Z's in junk yard if mine are too far gone.



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I just orded a pump though the shop close to me(Car Quest). It was some french brand name I think Paurant and in the system it was labeled as OEM replacement. It also had a picture of the impeller which was CAST.



It was like $43 So a little on the expensive side but it should be the right one. It will get in tomorrow I will post some pics and part numbers.





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Thats the good brand

What I have seen these are made in Japan(Atsugi) stock parts.

I also have a clutch disc with that brand


43 is on the more expensive side. maybe cause its from the local parts store. just got to find a internet warehouse im sure its 8-10$ cheaper



PS Champion say they have a 510 rad but needs mod,water ever that means.

maybe you can get it cheap. You think with this day and age they could do a computer copy and made them in in china alot better than they do.


I have a Chinese made one in the box and it used the old Modine part number. Then I find out its a Chinese clone. I was pissed but looked OK. I havent ran it. I had bought Singapore CSK brand I think then they wouldnt last too long

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The water pump I got does have the cast impeller and is made in japan :cool: . I will post pictures soon.


I got the old one off tonight and the timing cover is pretty messed up. The old pump has a bent tooth(stamped steel impeller). and there is a good chunk missing from the timing cover :hmm: . Not too happy about that. But i was digging around in the garage and found one a friend left from a Z car. It still has the coating Hainz was talking about in it. Its pretty dirty but I think a good blast with the pressure washer will clean it up.





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I usually say.

I need a radiator.

What year?

1995 toyota 4runner.



That would be 145 all aluminum.


I order them from el toro mufflers...


Just tell them what year and model and they carry it pretty much or can order it.



El Toro Mufflers & Radiators


(323) 771-8001

4943 Cecilia St

Cudahy, CA 90201


Only knows Spanish. MEXICAN HOOK UUUUUUUUP!!!!!!!!

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My timing cover needs to be replaced.





Luckly I have one laying around in Ok shape it just needs some elbow grease to make it look nice.


Here a pic of the old water pump.




Here are some of the new one.





Whats that brass thing in there?



I think that is the pump's OEM logo here?





Here is a good read on antifreeze. It looks like the plain old green stuff not dex-cool compatible is what we need to run.

Coolant Color War



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