ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 well i completed putting the head on and putting my motor back together it ran good for a day. now it wont even start. turns over sputters some times and thats it Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Try readjusting tha valve lash ck for spark pump the pedal and make sure you see gas going into the carb.If you see gas goin in to the carb then you can assume the carb has gas and that part is fine. make sure dizzy didnt come loose(10mm hold down bolt fell off) and turned to much Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 i dont know what valve lash is. fuel is getting to carb. and dizzy is tight. i am about to go pull plugs to see how they look Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 ok so spark plugs are get black. the all look the same except one and it looks like shinier jet black opposed to flat like the others. ok so i cleaned my plugs and it fired up. then i shut it off and it wouldnt start again so i pulled a plug and it was already turning black again Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 valve lash is using a feeler gauge and making sure the rocker arm is loose when the lobe is pointing up. I cant remeber if you just did a headgasket or the head came back from machine shop but you got to ck this otherwise your just blowing you gas out the back and its not having any compression thus not firing. Even if you have spark. to ck spark I just pull the center wire from the dizzy cap and place near the strut tower bolt and see if it sparks when your cranking over. Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 oh yea i adjusted the valves my self using a feeler gauge i set all the valves 2 what the book called for. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 make sure intake tight ck all bolts. it was running before so it should be a EZ fix. ck valve lash agin. what I do is just have lobe pointing up and if it wiggles with your fingers that its probabply good. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 How does it run when it does run? Is there any hesitation or stumbling? Are your intake/exhaust manifold bolts tight and is your carb tight to the manifold? Did you hook up all your vacuum hoses again and are they in good shape? Are you sure that youve got your chain on right (if youve got one with the bright links it should be hard to mess up) Is your head torqued down correctly? Go back through and double check everything you touched/changed and make sure its tight/in spec. Once you get it fired again and warmed up try and adjust/lean out your carb a bit, if messing with the adjustment screw doesnt change anything then youve got a vacuum issue somewhere... considering that the chain is right, and the valves are adjusted properly. If youre still running a hitachi they can piss you off if the vacuum lines are hooked up wrong or not hooked up at all, including the ones to the aircleaner. Dont even try troubleshooting it until you have everything hooked up. A weber is way more forgiving and easier to diagnose. How long did you have your carb sitting and how long has it been since you looked inside? Maybe when moving it around you knocked some shit loose on the inside and have a clogged jet or something sticking. Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 it runs bad. when i giveit gas it hesitates and when it idles it hick ups every few seconds. my bolts and every thing are tight to spec and vacuum lines are good. and i am running a weber i rebuilt a few months back. the timing chain i have has all the same links no brights ones like in the video. i was as carefull as i could be, and i watched the video several times while i was putting chain on. and i read forums and used a Manuel. i am as sure as i can be that the chain was put on properly. im waiting for the car to cool down so i can go re adjust valves i am hearing a ticking but cant tell if it exaust leak or valves Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 the timing chain i have has all the same links no brights ones like in the video. thats your problem the two gold links are essential. they have to be lined up correctly. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 skip Not all chains have the brite links. usually the taiwan chains dont have these. or the Jap ones they become discolored over time. To ck if timming chain was installed correctly just dial motor up to TDC Zero on crank and if the V notch is linned up with the dash on cam tower/timmingplate(look between sprocket hole) its GOOD.End of story. If chain was off a link most likely it still wont backfire. just just comes on sooner or later depending where the extra link went to. the advance side or retard side. if anything it could be off a tooth. on oil pump/dizzy spindal so while you have it at TDC ck the dizzy and make sure its pointing at a plug wire and should be middle of the timming plate. if looks off remove the dist and look where the spindal end looks like. if it does run put a timming light on it and see where the marks are at. If its way off SCALE it could be oil pump was not lined up correctly. also if anything elese was changed during this head swap let us know. Hate to find out it was a induced proplem from a bad or mismatched parts. Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Why do the links mater if the head and block are lined up properly Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Nope I took the head to a machine shop. They rebuilt it to stock. When I pull the valve cover off I'll check to see if my timing is off but I spent allot of time making sure I did it right. This car will be the death of me Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 skip Not all chains have the brite links. usually the taiwan chains dont have these. I never buy chains with out coloured links. makes it that much easier to know things are spot on :lol: and yes double check the oil pump shaft too ricky Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Oh I forgot a symptom. After having it run for a little bit I was getting light color smoke out around valve cover and out of valve cover breather Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 let us know about the timming also. this is a EZ fix. Not that you have spare parts like some of us but this is a EZ fix. as for the smoke dont panic yet I route a hose from the valve cover to the bottom of the weber. usually they have a white elbow that a hose can plug in to.If not I get a water hose and route it way down below the car somewhere so you dont smell it. at idle if alot of smoke from valve cover means blowby. when you rev it up I think it goes away. usually the lower crank case blows out at ilde then sucks In when the revs go up. So Im thinking PCV valve but these rarely go bad. make sure its not sucking in water from the intake. so make sure its tight. soemtimes they suck water thru the water passages. Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 just a quick update. weather is not allowing me to pull valve cover today. will post when i do Quote Link to comment
mike Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hows the weather, did you get her fixed? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Why do the links mater if the head and block are lined up properly The bright links are only useful if you have the timing cover off and are installing the chain for the first time. As soon as the motor is started the links move to a random position. For example the L20B has 44 links between the bright ones. The crank sprocket has 20 teeth so on each turn of the motor the chain moves 10 links. I'm guessing that there are about 100 links total so the motor would have to be turned about 10 times to bring the bright links into position again. Waste of time. When the crank is at TDC the the V notch on the cam sprocket must be just to the right of the etch mark on the cam retaining plate. This and nothing else rules that the cam is properly timed. If the head is milled or a thicker/thinner gasket is used or if the chain is stretched the use of the bright links will only get you close. You will still have to look at the V and the etch mark position and move the sprocket to adjust it. Quote Link to comment
ricky Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 ok so i redid the valve lash. there all good im getting air fuel and spark. timing mark looks like it is in the right place. and the car wont start. so i am lost Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 when you took the head off did you leave the dist wires on the dist? if you removed them make sure you put #1 on #1 then go 1 3 4 2 counterclockwise fire order. if the cam is timmed. the dist timmed.Valve lash(meaning hopefully compression) you have gas shooting in there its going to go BANG. soemthing is missing. You should be able to pump the pedal to fill it with gas then turn it over. it shold FIRE. maybe try new plugs if they fouled but that would be rare. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Pull your distributor cap, roll the motor over to TDC by hand and see if your rotor is pointing to #1 sparkplug. You can wad up a piece of paper towel or TP and plug the spark plug hole and it will pop out on the compression stroke. Do you have the right firing order? Check to see if the two screws on the side of your carb venturis are all the way closed... if they are crack them open a bit, You might not be getting air. Quote Link to comment
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