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Akumazedex S130


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  • 2 months later...

So after a long ass hiatus, here's a little update on the s130. Last Friday it took a monumental poop. I had an injector go out, which in turn fouled the eff out of the plugs. Got new injector and new iridium ngk plugs in. Solved one problem in fixing that. Apparently my old nickel ngk's weren't putting out a strong enough spark in the high rpm's (4500-5000) causing a misfire. Ever since I put the iridiums in that completely went away! One fix repaired two problems!

 

Second, on my way yesterday to Davis to visit the girlfriend, the O2 sensor pooped out, probably from the retard rich earlier, and the car would start cutting out during acceleration, I have a A/F gauge and the reading were all over the place. Ran over to Kragen here in Davis got a new O2 sensor, put it in and were smooth as butter. The A/F gauge also reads right at stoich now compared to hella rich with the old O2.

 

That's pretty much it, been focusing on the S30 so no actual progress on this one, unless I find something cool I have to have lol

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So the car is being a real pain, cat got clogged, put a test pipe in. And now alternator is crapped out, doesn't charge at idle, an I'm sure it issnt putting out enough amps cuz the car runs like crap again.

 

However, even after all the crap it's been giving me I got something new for it. Camber plates! My buddy got coilovers for his s30 and Diddnt need these.

910DD238-3734-4451-9D44-8B920063F6D7-62230-0000120011210F4A.jpg

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A lot of l28et guys just unplug the o2 sensor because its always causing problems. Seems a common claim its better performance and mileage unplugged.

 

Have you ever read into side gaping plugs? It's a legit way to get more efficient spark and combustion. Combined with indexing the plugs idle, mpg, performance... all receive noticeable gains.

What I like the most is how much better the starts and idles are after its done. The hp/tq bonus on a free mod is always nice though.

SparkPlugDyno.jpg

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The same way but you would be removing less of the ground strap because the diode is so small.

 

Here is a good write up on it. He seems to like using cheaper plugs.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated-all-motor/16898-how-side-gap-spark-plugs.html

 

Ya the o2 is tricky, if you run better with the new one you bought go for it. I to this day dont know why unplugging it works but so many people do it. Could be because usually a system will go rich if it doesnt get a signal to protect the motor and L series just love to be rich. Not sure though.

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Yesh, that's the one I found, I'm sure my car runs better with the o2 because its an NA-t setup running NA ecu an junk, so if I was runnin no o2 it would be ridiculous lol! I have an af gauge and it stays right about stoich the whole time. I just hope the gremlins Diddnt get to anything else. Putting a new alternator in today and crossing my fingers nothing else pops up lol

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Ah well that explains it. Seems to be a l28et bandaid I never hear of na guys doing it.

 

Its a pita when so much happens back to back but at least its all shit you dont have to worry about for a good while.

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Hid's shouldn't take more power, the initial voltage spike is, but when they're on it should be considerably less. I've never saw the need to put a bigger alternator in the zx. The stock one was always plenty enough even with my amp and sub. Atleast now I have an alternator for the 260! Lol the current one has a bad bearing.

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So here's where I'm at on my bitchy 280zx. Replaced injector connectors, replaced CHTS connector. Still runs like crap. Decided to go thru the entire efi yesterday, checked all the connected/working components at the ecu connector, found a couple that were not working but are now fixed. Still having the same problem, running really rich when warmed up. Took it to work today and tested the new alternator I put in last week and it failed at 12.45V and 5amps with all the accessories turned on (lights, fan, etc) so my initial thought of the alternator causing the problems might have been right all along. Kind of my fault for not having the store test it before I put it in. Got two on the way and hope one of those is good.

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So with a new alternator I'm still having the same problem. I actually found out that its only when I put a load on the alternator that it stops charging. I did a bit of digging yesterday and found my black (acc) fuse link was corroded pretty bad. Replaced that and still no change. From what I gathered that fuse link is what brings voltage to the alternator + and the energize wire (white). I'm gonna go thru the charging circuits later and see if I have any problems there. Gonna get a new alternator to block ground and block to body ground too.

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