datsunaholic Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 OK, I'm having trouble following Carlos' problem. 1) You said that with all fuses pulled, a light hooked INLINE with the battery and battery cable (cable off) still lights? - This means something's still hooked up, bypassing the fuse box. 2) You said that disconnecting the alternator made the light go out. Then you said it didn't, or maybe it stayed on when there were fuses hooked up? - With the alternator hooked up, is the light on? Does it go out with the alternator disconnected? Does it go on when you hook it back up? If you answered yes to ALL THREE, then the answer is, your alternator is bad. It's the parasitic draw- shorted diode. That, or you have something in the car hooked directly to the alternator, bypassing the fuses. 3) I have no idea what you mean by the light stays on briefly after pulling a wire. What's still hooked up at this point? Do that with all fuses out. And hopefully there's nothing bypassing the fuses! Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 OK, I'm having trouble following Carlos' problem. 1) You said that with all fuses pulled, a light hooked INLINE with the battery and battery cable (cable off) still lights? - This means something's still hooked up, bypassing the fuse box. 2) You said that disconnecting the alternator made the light go out. Then you said it didn't, or maybe it stayed on when there were fuses hooked up? - With the alternator hooked up, is the light on? Does it go out with the alternator disconnected? Does it go on when you hook it back up? If you answered yes to ALL THREE, then the answer is, your alternator is bad. It's the parasitic draw- shorted diode. That, or you have something in the car hooked directly to the alternator, bypassing the fuses. 3) I have no idea what you mean by the light stays on briefly after pulling a wire. What's still hooked up at this point? Do that with all fuses out. And hopefully there's nothing bypassing the fuses! 1) Yes the light still came on. I'm thinking the same thing about something is bypassing the fuse box. 2) Its hard to explain but, I'll try to word it different. (with all the fuses pulled and the auto choke relay still hooked up) if I was to unplug everything from the alternator the light would still stay on. But, if I was to unplug the auto choke relay then the light would go out. 3) Its like the whole charging system is holding a tiny bit of charge. So when I connect the test light after the battery has been unhooked the light would come on for a split second then die out really fast. Can the auto choke relay be stuck on thus draining the battery? but, then it clicks when I connect the battery then un-clicks when I disconnect the battery. *confused Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Rememeber the Dime Quarterly article on this mod when you install a IR alternator, READ this If you put everything back and just leave the Autochoke plug off does the light still come on? Yeah as Datsunaholic i was getting confused. light ON ON OFF OFF. as Question #1 was asked of bypassing the fuse. This would be stuff directly hooked up to the battery. If you got 5 different wires comming off that then its going somewhere, This could be off the +side of the alternator or off that starter lug as previos owners use this a + power points to splice stuff. Also did you try to unplug the emergency blinker can? as this has power on that wire and the rely could slightly be stuck ON(fuck im only guess here but worth a shot). if you disconnect the alternator nd the light is still ON then its not the alternator. just leave it disconnected. then pull the fuses. But we been thru all this and you seem to know what your doing just missing soemthing. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Rememeber the Dime Quarterly article on this mod when you install a IR alternator, READ this Are you talking about this one? http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_iralt.html If you put everything back and just leave the Autochoke plug off does the light still come on? with everything hooked up no the light doesn't come on. Thats why I think its some where in the auto choke relay circuit. as Question #1 was asked of bypassing the fuse. This would be stuff directly hooked up to the battery. If you got 5 different wires comming off that then its going somewhere, This could be off the +side of the alternator or off that starter lug as previos owners use this a + power points to splice stuff. Theres only one thing coming straight off the battery and that the power wire for the amp thats not even hooked up anymore. Also did you try to unplug the emergency blinker can? as this has power on that wire and the rely could slightly be stuck ON(fuck im only guess here but worth a shot). I'll check that out. if you disconnect the alternator nd the light is still ON then its not the alternator. just leave it disconnected. then pull the fuses. But we been thru all this and you seem to know what your doing just missing soemthing. yah I know its not the alternator now. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Thats why I think its some where in the auto choke relay circuit. Do you really need this circut? I would leave it unplugged IF the choke relay is unplugged and the Light is OUT then thats the proplem Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1 datzenmike,datsunaholic unless if dont understand this drawing the coil side of that relay is going to find power to the + side of alternator. meaning its ON all the time. due to the jumpers installed. I dont know if Key is Off or ON. if wire at the choke has 12volts when car is off then thats it right???? anybody I assume the old stock wiring is with Key on as the blu/wht wire goes to the external volt reg Quote Link to comment
260zkaboom Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 I had a similar problem on my 74 260z, I ended up just adding in a diode on the lower part of the ''T'' connector with the band line towards the connector. My info on connecting it up was from datsunzgarage.com under engine mods........check it out and read it it may help...it was my small parasitic draw Quote Link to comment
260zkaboom Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 (after I added my saturn alternator) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 260zkaboom the "Dimequarterly" shows the band away from the T connector. if carlos dont need a electric choke just unplug that relay under the fuse box is a blue wire that is key swithcbale for 12volt if a weber dgv is used that needs power Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 I unplugged it for now. and all seems well. I just give the gas pedal a quick stomp before starting and it seems to activate the choke. give it another while its running and it deactivates thus letting it idles real nice and low. :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 RE: Hainz, I used this diagram when putting a KA alt in my 710. And yes it sure looks like the relay would be ON all the time. SO, I cut the yellow wire at the relay and connected to the ignition ON position. Fuckit. . Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 OK I thought about this last night. Hook everything back up as you had it. relay also. Now you should get the TEST Light ON. Now pull the jumpers you put in the old volt geg harness. if light goes out then thats the proplem. Proplem is the relay is ON all the time. the jumpers cause this. So you need to remove the relay from the circut. So if if have a Weber with electric choke you need to maybe use the 12volt blue wire thats underneath the fusebox(70-73) this is a switchable Key ON 12volt and route a wire to the choke. Or just loosen the 2 screw and turn the choke plate till its open. and pump the pedal in the morning. If the choke doesnt get the 12volts it will give a overrich condition while driving and maybe give you a high RPM cutoff(blocking the airflow Or change it to a manual choke Weber Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 OK I thought about this last night. Hook everything back up as you had it. relay also. Now you should get the TEST Light ON. Now pull the jumpers you put in the old volt geg harness. if light goes out then thats the proplem. Proplem is the relay is ON all the time. the jumpers cause this. So you need to remove the relay from the circut. So if if have a Weber with electric choke you need to maybe use the 12volt blue wire thats underneath the fusebox(70-73) this is a switchable Key ON 12volt and route a wire to the choke. Or just loosen the 2 screw and turn the choke plate till its open. and pump the pedal in the morning. If the choke doesnt get the 12volts it will give a overrich condition while driving and maybe give you a high RPM cutoff(blocking the airflow Or change it to a manual choke Weber It runs fine how it is and doesn't drain my battery. I just give the pedal a quick tap to put choke on when cold. give it another quick tap it opens the choke. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 I don't know if this is adding to the confusion or helping... but the only devices that hold a charge are capacitors or coils. Caps hold voltage which will induce current. Coils hold current which will induce voltage when a load...like a light bulb...is hooked up. coils are in relays as well as, duh, the ignition coil. You say the relay clicks when you you connect/disconnect some wire. If the choke relay plug fits another relay, does it click the same way or stop clicking? From what I'm reading it sounds like the relay is on all the time. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Just say WHOS your Daddy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 I don't know if this is adding to the confusion or helping... but the only devices that hold a charge are capacitors or coils. Caps hold voltage which will induce current. Coils hold current which will induce voltage when a load...like a light bulb...is hooked up. coils are in relays as well as, duh, the ignition coil. You say the relay clicks when you you connect/disconnect some wire. If the choke relay plug fits another relay, does it click the same way or stop clicking? From what I'm reading it sounds like the relay is on all the time. Batteries hold a charge to. Thats what was triggering the auto choke relay to stay on 24/7. The choke relay is jumped from the yellow wire to the white wire. If you follow the white wire it leads straight to the battery thus giving 12v 24/7. And yes hainz YOU DA MAN! Quote Link to comment
Stubby Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Bump this up because I am having the same problem. Very Annoying. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 STUBBYwatch this. The first part will pertain to you and how to trouble shoot. The resisitor part is for newer cars but principal the same on fuse pulling. I would in your case pull the plus wire of alternator and pull the volt reg connector (if you have a external VR). write it down what yoiu do incase you still have a drain. also remove accessoories if you added seomthing. Quote Link to comment
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