Battery Keeps Dying out on me!!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

the Saturn alternator has a VR inside it.Since the photo you show is a round type I assume this is a 620.

You just short out the wires at the end together. the blk/wht with the red wht and the yellow with the wht( this is from memeory is plese ck.

since you have the otherwires still hooked up it could be finding a grnd or power thus draining the battery. or since you ran 2 VRs maybe soemthing poped.

 

You not not use the stock external volt reg any more. when running a IR alterator

[ariascarlos1990]

Sorry this is in my 510 wagon. I did all the correct wiring. Just like this.

 

So is that round one another voltage regulator? Thats weird if it is.

[banzai510(hainz)]

510 VR connectors are square

620 VR connectors are round.

[ariascarlos1990]

510 VR connectors are square

620 VR connectors are round.

 

I thought we where talking about the regulator its self. both of the plugs on mine are square.

 

I'll take a picture of the actual setup to show you.

[banzai510(hainz)]

that photo, the connector looks round to me

[ariascarlos1990]

Its not my photo. I borrowed it from the Saturn alt writeup. I think your getting a little confused.

 

I was just referring to the wiring and the square box.

[banzai510(hainz)]

ok, Not confused anymore but dont put confusing photos up.

as another thing which Im not sure about if your using a electric choke 510(later 71/72 models) you have to do soemthing about the choke relay. Its on the Dime Quarterly write up. Maybe this has something to do with it.So if carb is eleltric choke disconnect the wire to the carb and see if the test light goes out.

 

I have a early 71 so I dont have this choke relay.

 

If you have sidedrafts or a manulay choke carb I assume this will not pertain to you.

 

let me know what you find. Like learning more and more

[ariascarlos1990]

I do have an electric choke. I'll go test it now.

[ariascarlos1990]

I unhooked it and the test light still lit up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ok Im going to wing it now but that relay is by the passenger fender soemwhere. maybe disconnect that. But you can alway disconnect the fuse by lifting one end till the test light goes out. When the light goes out that the circut that is grounded or shorted. The Common circut is the cig lighter door buzzer ect that has 12volts all the time on the wire.

 

the alternator out out should have 12 volt also the red/wht wire I believe. if all fails disconnect that also.to remove the alternator(diode) from the circut.(rule it out)

[ariascarlos1990]

Yes its on the passenger side I unplugged it and took out all the fuses one by one. the light still stayed on. then I took the main power off the alt. Doing that made the light go out.

 

This making any sense?

[banzai510(hainz)]

ok put all the fuses back in.

 

just remove the power to the alternator and see if light goes out.

if you hook the power back up to alt then light comes back on then I assume its the alternator.

[ariascarlos1990]

K all fuses put back in. (kept relay unplugged) then removed main power on alternator. The light comes on for a split second then drains really fast.

 

Then I plugged the relay back in (with the main power on the alternator still off) and test light came back on.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Then I plugged the relay back in (with the main power on the alternator still off) and test light came back on.

 

 

going by the above statement I would think its that relay stuck on. or somthing making the relay come on. so this is the PROPLEM I would think.

The alternator is not in the sytem so that is not the proplem. The light still came ON.

 

 

this staement:

Then I plugged the relay back in (with the main power on the alternator still off) and test light came back on.

 

I dont think the light would come on and drain as you say unless there is a Capicitor maybe soemwhere in the circut that is discharging or maybe the coil. Im only guessing

 

One of my rule of thumb things is to remove all accessories that were added. extra lights, Cibie grounded type headlamps, driving lights,alarm , stereo amps ect... and just run the basic stock stuff first.

 

Could be soemthing simple like a horn wire under the steering wheel grounding out the relay but the horn themselves are removed, so yo never know the batter is draining.

 

let me know 2 morrow if you find anything. No PC after 2.30

 

 

this earlier statement got me thinking:

"Yes its on the passenger side I unplugged it and took out all the fuses one by one. the light still stayed on. then I took the main power off the alt. Doing that made the light go out."

This points at the alternator.

Remove the alt first. if light stays ON then remove the fuses one by one. but puting the last fuse back in .

 

I hope you can understand all this.

Good luck.

[ariascarlos1990]

I think I may have figured it out. The yellow and white wire (the ones you splice together during the Saturn alt swap) have a short. because I hook the test light up to check for parasitic draw then wiggle those wires (where there connected) and the light sometimes turn off. I'll re connect them and see if the light stays off. I REALLY HOPE THIS FIXES IT! :P

[ariascarlos1990]

Of course that wasn't the problem. <_<

 

But, heres the part number off the relay 25235P0101 Looks to be the ASSY-RELAY,AUTO CHOKE HEATER.

 

Thats the thing that keeps making the clicking noise every time I test for draw with my test light.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

keep me posted on this.

[ariascarlos1990]

Then I plugged the relay back in (with the main power on the alternator still off) and test light came back on.

 

 

going by the above statement I would think its that relay stuck on. or somthing making the relay come on. so this is the PROPLEM I would think.

The alternator is not in the sytem so that is not the proplem. The light still came ON.

 

 

this staement:

Then I plugged the relay back in (with the main power on the alternator still off) and test light came back on.

 

I dont think the light would come on and drain as you say unless there is a Capicitor maybe soemwhere in the circut that is discharging or maybe the coil. Im only guessing

 

I don't have a capacitor, I have my stereo and amp disconnected, I even tried disconnecting my coil. The light still comes on

 

One of my rule of thumb things is to remove all accessories that were added. extra lights, Cibie grounded type headlamps, driving lights,alarm , stereo amps ect... and just run the basic stock stuff first.

I have some little fog lights on there I'll take those off then check again. but, I know its not the cigarette lighter I tested for that already. If its not the fogs I don't know what else it could be.

 

 

Could be soemthing simple like a horn wire under the steering wheel grounding out the relay but the horn themselves are removed, so yo never know the batter is draining.

 

I have horns hooked up and they work fine you would think if they where grounding out they would be blaring.

 

 

this earlier statement got me thinking:

"Yes its on the passenger side I unplugged it and took out all the fuses one by one. the light still stayed on. then I took the main power off the alt. Doing that made the light go out."

This points at the alternator.

Remove the alt first. if light stays ON then remove the fuses one by one. but puting the last fuse back in .

 

I hope you can understand all this.

Good luck.

 

Thats with the relay disconnected though. Its like the alternator is acting like a mini capacitor. I think its something else because even with the alternator disconnected the light comes on and stays on.

 

when I have everything disconnected but, the alternator the light will still come but, only for a split second from it holding a charge or something.

 

Idk. <_<

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK you disconnect the alternator and the test light stays ON.

Leave it alternator disconnected.

pop fuses one by one again till the test light goes out but put the previos fuse back in. If light goes out then that the circut.

If the light does NOT go out ?

 

I DONT KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ariascarlos1990]

OK you disconnect the alternator and the test light stays ON.

Leave it alternator disconnected.

pop fuses one by one again till the test light goes out but put the previos fuse back in. If light goes out then that the circut.

If the light does NOT go out ?

 

I DONT KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Did as stated above and the light didn't go out :angry:

 

I disconnected the fogs to and it still didn't go out.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Is there extra wires to the plus side battery or starter that might be feeding something?

maybe disconnect them?

 

disconnect the blicker/emergency cans.

headlights

ect.......................

[ariascarlos1990]

Is there extra wires to the plus side battery or starter that might be feeding something?

maybe disconnect them?

 

disconnect the blicker/emergency cans.

headlights

ect.......................

 

the power wire for the amp.

 

i'll try the other things in a bit. and get back to you

[banzai510(hainz)]

figure this out?

[ariascarlos1990]

figure this out?

 

nope. still disconnect the battery after every time I drive it. and I don't drive at night anymore.

 

Kinda sucks.

[650savag]

I was having similar problems with ;my truck. I was having to disconnect the neg. cable every time it was going to be parked for several hrs. to avoid the parasitic drain from killing my bat. I followed some good advice from our Ratsun forums, and I used an ampmetaer to check the dc amps from my neg. cable to the neg. post while disconnected. It was reading 26.38 amps. I unplugged the top (T shaped) plu8g from my alternator and the amps went to "0". So my drain was coming from a bad diode in the alt. Now I just unplug the "T" plug on my alt. until I get a new one and get it installed. You might want to get an ampmeter and do this check on yours. Louisiana Dan