sjeff64 Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 I know for a fact Nispo is putting in a KA24e in his 620...I saw it(with out him knowing LOL) Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 that transmission is a bitch...and then i made it my bitch everyone loves a BFH Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Awesome! Jeff saved me like a whole posts worth of writing by posting this, thanks dude, lol. Anyway, yes I started the swap a few weeks a go and it has been nothing but a pain in most areas. I see why Icehouse customized his engine mounts now because my tranny bellhousing was deffinately striking the fire wall. Kiznook and I pulled the assembly back out to begin "modifying the firewall"....this is what ensued all because this bastard is too long and fat(insert sexual inuendo) heres the l-series speedo gear in the KA tranny my hot tig welding skills and my shortened driveshaft(dont mind the start and stop points on the weld....STFU) my free corrola radiator that my friend gave me the drivetrain as it sits at this very moment and last but not least mr. kiznook my official "war hammer" swinger/operator showing his love for my swap. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 I forgot a major calculation when shortening a driveline for a pickup and thats when I go over bumps the driveline wont bottom out against the tailshaft. So, I need to take out a whole 1.25(doh) still from the front part and I think a driveline shop is gonna do it this time. Maybe its caused by the lack of sleep lately? peace. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 17, 2007 Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 WOW! the above post seems as though it was written while I was asleep, it sounds very bad to me at least. I wont edit it for others amusement and also because I am too lazy. Anyway, I have the ka24 sitting right where it needs to be everything is bolted in/ mounted except for the driveline and radiator. I am also still having a hard time locating a sohc MAF and if anyone knows of one for cheap I would be much apreciative. I cant wait to here this thing run and have the awesome reliability of fuel injection. Hey Icehouse any tips on routing the xhuast for this setup, my last exhaust system was a pretty tight fit as it was and this one doesnt look fun at all. peace. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 17, 2007 Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 I had trouble running the exhaust as well, it is really close to the torsion bar. I need new engine mounts, under heavy acceleration the exhaust hits the torsion bar. I will also check for a maf censor when I get to my shop in a bit here. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted March 17, 2007 Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 Ice, the problem is that you just have too much torque. You need to put a brick under the gas pedal. :D Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 18, 2007 Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Haha that would help the gas milage to, with the rain I think I dropped about 6 mph. Its not my fault the conners are calling my name :D Quote Link to comment
sjeff64 Posted March 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 oh here I go again! why not weld up a solid mount for the driver side it will keep it from tourquing up. you can still run the fluid on on the pass side to reduce vibration. Quote Link to comment
Glengemen Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 I must have fallen on some dumb luck putting my KA in. I modified one 620 engine mount and had to make a couple of crossmembers, but didn't have to touch my truck with a hammer. Also my engine sits with less of a rake, almost perfectly flat with a small tilt. It might be my tranny, as all my stuff is HB where Ice's and yours are 240sx stuff. Also I had to lenthen my driveshaft to go from a 4 speed to the HB 5 speed. Also with the MAF sensor good luck on that because they are a semi-hot item at the juck yard and the are 400 bucks at the dealer with no aftermarket support. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 So I found a solid pan thats rear sump at the tigard j-yard and I think next week I am gonna go get it cause I absolutely cannot stand this front sump pan hitting my steering arm. It doesnt hit it much but I know it does and i dont like it!!!! My main question is will the rear sump pan clear the main bearing girdle on the 240 block? From what I can tell the truck pan is not deep enough but I didnt bring a tape with me so I could check. I have seen a rear sump pan on a 240 block but it was internet pictures so i am not sure it actually happened, maybe merely to prove someone else wrong? Anyone, know for sure it will clear? peace. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 From everything I've read it clears. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Make sure that you get a quote on the price of that oil pan before you go pull it. Thats what i was going to do at the tigard UPI, But they said if you pull the pan then you have to pay for a complete shortblock and core. They said that for environmental reasons they have to then pull that motor and throw it away. So you might as well get the whole motor. Let us know what you find out as they did recently change owners. Later Jason Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 that would suck balls but I am pretty chummy with the mexican manager dude, and he seems to let me get by for pretty cheap. lol I walked out of there for under 10 bucks last time just because the guy in front of me was doing some big ass core return. If they want I will put the front sump pan on that block if it makes em happy. I will find out tomorrow cause I am gonna be a slacker and take the day off. peace. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 so, i went and pulled that pan from a 2wd nissan pickup, compared it to the front sump and determined modifications were needed. I will probly have to make a whole new post on how to modify said pan but its gonna take some work. Im almost pondering laying it all out and building a 1/2 spacer between the pan and the block to clear the main bearing girdle. Or i can cut it and then re weld it about a 1/4- 1/2 inch lower. I like the pacer idea except for the fact i would have to run two gaskets and longer 10mm bolts. The worst and easiest idea though is to hammer it a bit till it clears. The wiring and this stupid oil pan are the only things holding me up right now and I am tired of not being able to drive it!!!! peace. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 tomorrow I am gonna take pics of the pan and all the MODS required to make it work on a 240 KA with the main bearing girdle. All it requires is some slight notching and rewelding on the pan itself, then it should clear just fine. Also, I finally got power to all the components for the EFI!!! Turns out that the ignition switch was bad which is weird because it worked before the swap and now it doesnt. Im probably just gonna run a toggle switch for the time being so that I can drive it and enjoy it for a bit. Hey ice house do you think the HB down pipe will clear the torsion bars on the 620? It looked like it would be really close if it did and probably rattle a lil bit but theres one thats completely intact at the tigard u pull it. I was gonna use the 240 one but it got cut up for another project. peace. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 I used to HB down manifold and down pipe, I cut the down pipe right before the dogleg and turned it 180 so it fit in-between the torsion bar and the frame. It does rattle, but its good for now. I figure someday I will turbo it and that will aim the exhaust where I need it :D Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 ok, I have power to everything including the coil but the coil is not firing. I have verified it is not the coil by trying several others. I also know that the dizzy is sending a signal because the injectors are getting a signal. If i attach a voltmeter lead tgo the negative side of the coil plug i should be seeing some sort of pulse, correct? I cant seem to figure out why theres no spark! I remember icehouse saying he tried a different ecu and it worked but I have no other to try. peace. Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 seems like there should be pulsing signal on the neg. side, thats the signal, and where you would normaly connect a tach. If you want i can bring my spare ecu over tonight, it's worth a shot right? Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 deffinately! peace. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 we tested continuity on the pins for the power transistor which fires the coil and we got nothing. So, after some tracing I came to the conlcusion that while soldering this harness back together i mustve switched two wires. Sure enough I found that i had switched the tps shielded wire for the shielded wire that goes tot he power transistor. We hooked it all back up and finally got spark, my dizzy is still 180 out due to incorrect oil pump timing. I will fix all that today and hopefully it will fire. peace. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Good Luck dude :D Sorry I haven't been much help.... With my phone broke its been tuff keeping up with my busy schedule :( Quote Link to comment
510_Dillon Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 yeah turbo jeff is a very busy guy :D Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 we fired it yesterday and DAMN it was loud! I had no exhaust manifold on when I first fired it because of some broken exhaust studs in the head. After 20 minutes of messing with the engine trying to run right I just bolted on what I could of the exhaust manifold. Its kinda scary trying to adjust the dizzy when you have a 12" flame right next to your arm, lol. Right now the truck refuses to idle which sucks because I left all the idle stuff on it in hopes it would be ok. The only thing not on it is the actual idle solenoid, apparently the PO got a little crazy when manuevering around this engine. I figured though that the AIV motor would at least help a little but apparently not. Im sure once I let it warm up it would run better, along with a new cap and rotor as mine was VERY corroded. Anyway, sometime this weekend it should be operational and I can finally see if ti was all worth it. lol. peace. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Can you share what you found out about purchasing an oil pan at the JY. What did it cost you? Let you buy just the pan? Jason Quote Link to comment
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