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Light-weight flywheel.


Tacomaboy

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I searched about and could have missed it , but was wondering if any were using any form of lightweight flywheel /clutch assem? Was considering purchasing one of the sets offered on E-bay but was hoping for a bit of info on driving characteristics. Besides building rps quicker,reducing rotating mass,probably decell quicker as well. As far as daily driving ...is it , or would it require a bit of finnes in every day traffic. This will back a KA 24 DE 5 sp. combo. Bound for turbo in not to distant future. Thanks.

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Great for racing where you rarely stop. You can run with some weight removed for the street but like everything else people think that if a little is good a lot would be better and run 10 lb flywheels or less and it's a pain in the ass for stop and go driving. Without the energy stored by the spinning mass the motor will need to be revved higher as you engage the clutch to get the car moving without stalling. It all depends on how much you can put up with if you do a lot of in town driving. Someone will say "I'm running an 8 lb flywheel and it works great!!" and it does for him. For you who knows? Stock weight is likely around 20 lbs so I imaging a 15 lb would be a fair compromise. A little more snap but still docile enough for stop and go daily driver.

 

Other things that will do the same without affecting the driving:

 

Alloy rims. Lighter tires. Aluminum drive shaft. I've even seen transmission gears hollowed out to reduce weight. :D

 

Lightening the car by emptying the trunk, space saving spare tire, lighter battery, lighter seats, tear out that air conditioner that you never got fixed are just a few. Be inventive. For every 100 lb removed your 1/4 mile time will drop .1 second.

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Yea that was exactly what I was looking for. Driveability on the street is something i really dont want to sacrifice. Are you aware of a manufacture of a - 4 or 5 lb. flywheel or is this a machinest only job,where would i get info in this?

 

Have a machine shop lighten a stock flywheel. They should be able to take a couple pounds out of one.

 

I'd go with a chromoly steel flywheel if you buy aftermarket. I've had a bad experience with aluminum ones, and you can find pictures out there of an RB26DETT powered skyline that nearly got cut in half from the aluminum flywheel exploding.

Aluminum and steel have different expansion rates so if they don't heat up slowly, stress cracks could form or flywheel bolts could come loose. Safety wire is your friend.

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I have an 11# flywheel on my KA with a 5 puck clutch. Yeah, it does take some getting used to when it is first on there, but once you do it is really not that hard to drive. I would attribute this more to the clutch than the flywheel though, as the engagement is pretty quick.

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I have a 10# JUN chromoly flywheel in my wagon and other than getting use to it I didnt have any issue with traffic

 

Any lighter than that...well I wouldnt go any lower. Lisas 510 has a factory flywheel that was lightened to around 15 or 16# and i would say its the best bang for the buck

 

Clayton

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I run an 11# chromoly flywheel and stage 2 clutch (ebay pack) in my KADE powered 510 and I love it. It does take a few minutes to get used too, because it's mostly on or off, (not much slip), but as a daily driver it works for me no problem. The only draw back so far that I can see is, when you jump back in your other 5speed cars, it feels like the clutches all going out in them, because the dime is so awesome, lol.

 

Just my 2 cents.

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a factory flywheel that was lightened to around 15 or 16# and i would say its the best bang for the buck

:thumbup:

 

both of mine are around 14.5# and cost ~$40 to do.

 

using roadster PP and clutch

only time it SUCKS is in on the freeway in 1MPH traffic :angry:

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transflywheel_spec.jpg

 

Take this to your machinist and hell lighten it some. Still needs to be balanced.

 

 

Yea that was exactly what I was looking for. Driveability on the street is something i really dont want to sacrifice. Are you aware of a manufacture of a - 4 or 5 lb. flywheel or is this a machinest only job,where would i get info in this?

 

If drive ability is so important then why the info on a 5 lb flywheel? 12 lb is the lightest stock one I have heard of and the starter ring gear had to be welded on to keep it from falling off. I have also heard of using an automatic flex plate with an aluminum friction plate bolted to it.... sounds a bit fanciful to me.

 

 

.

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Cant give enough thanks for all the great info on this. What I ment to ask is if anyone was aware of a 4 or 5 lb. less than stock flywheel; to keep driveability in stop/go traffic. Again, this setup is going in a 70 roadster. I like the snap quick response that an 11 lb. would give but dont want to create a burdin to romp around town. I drive this rig any day weather allows with enjoyment and want to continue to do so. Any idea how much weight shed could come from that drawing D-Mike? That diagram is a god send. Probably the most sensable option. My aim in this project is a quick blast that they never saw coming, and only leaving. Thanks to all again for such great info.

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