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ka24e head on a napz block


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Anyone know what's actually needed before I jump in to it I have a good napz block etc kaheads are cheap. What's the combo. I know what everyone is thinkin too (why not just get a whole ka) well cause I don't want fuel injection. No2 is I already have a nice cleaned up block etc most ka have had the dog shit ran outta them. And I have acsess to a hardbody ka that's seized up but I could rob parts off of. I plan to use the tbi intake and make a carb adapter for a 500cfm holley 2bbl

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Anyone know what's actually needed before I jump in to it I have a good napz block etc kaheads are cheap. What's the combo. I know what everyone is thinkin too (why not just get a whole ka) well cause I don't want fuel injection. No2 is I already have a nice cleaned up block etc most ka have had the dog shit ran outta them. And I have acsess to a hardbody ka that's seized up but I could rob parts off of. I plan to use the tbi intake and make a carb adapter for a 500cfm holley 2bbl

 

I am not sure about a napz but i know it can be done to an L20. There is a write up on the internet about it, it look tons of fabricating tho. Just rebuild the KA cheaper and faster... I think but then again i am new :P

 

-DENK

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I am not sure about a napz but i know it can be done to an L20. There is a write up on the internet about it, it look tons of fabricating tho. Just rebuild the KA cheaper and faster... I think but then again i am new :P

 

-DENK

 

 

I've been told that the napz 2.4 (which is what I have) are identical blocks I'm curious if the timing covers etc are different.

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You're post has a problem:

 

"I know what everyone is thinkin too (why not just get a whole ka) well cause I don't want fuel injection."

 

It's the head that determines what intake you use, not the block, so the fact that you want to use a KA head would lean much more towards fuel injection.

 

Also, what block is it? The 2.4's crack around the head studs.

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Anyone know what's actually needed before I jump in to it I have a good napz block etc kaheads are cheap. What's the combo. I know what everyone is thinkin too (why not just get a whole ka) well cause I don't want fuel injection. No2 is I already have a nice cleaned up block etc most ka have had the dog shit ran outta them. And I have acsess to a hardbody ka that's seized up but I could rob parts off of. I plan to use the tbi intake and make a carb adapter for a 500cfm holley 2bbl

You have recipe for extreme mediocrity.

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Its been done, a guy in australia put a FWD KA24E head and the EFI on his L20B but most of his fab was fitting the FWD manifolds and converting to Z gear on his L, you've already got a z so it should be eaisier, he welded up the big oil return at the back of the head, used the Z timing stuff and cover but he went all wierd with the CAS, just use your z or an L distributor. there is a link in the head melting thread on this site.

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The Z24 and KA24E are damn near the same block. Same height, rods/pistons are interchangable. However, the crank snout is actually smaller on the KA crank, and the timing cover won't work. Also there's a rear cover plate for the rear main seal on the KA that the Z24 does not have.

 

I have a good Z24 block and if I build a KA will go that route simply because I can use the existing motor mounts/tranmission that I currently have for the L motor. I may clock it funny, but if it's fuel injection it won't matter, and I think the intake should still clear the strut tower. I could be wrong on that one. If so, then all you have to do is swap the bellhousing for a Z series bellhousing and use z series motor mounts from an 80ish 510 or 720 and you're back to golden.

 

On the KA head, you will also need to weld up one water passage if I remember correctly. As long as you're using the Z24, you won't need to modify the timing chain. If using Z20/Z22, you will have to do a custom chain just like a Z24/20b combo.

 

I'm currently in the process of switching the 510 to fuel injection because it's just better for most things. Regular racing where the rpms are sustained and the track is flat, it doesn't matter, use carbs. But unless you're spending some money on a set of 4 nice bike carbs, the KA head is going to be a lot better with fuel injection. Much easier, also.

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Z and KA tranny bell housings should bolt on the same is I've had both on my FJ, the L too but at a different angle. The KA and Z blocks however are completely different castings, the internals are only similar (L20B crank wont fit in KA block-no bearings) go with a complete Z series bottom build complete with Z chain, brackets and mounts, modify KA head as in the link posted in the head melting thread, and bolt er on!

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  • 3 years later...

Yeah, I have 40,000 miles on my KAZ24.  Works fine, but there's a lot of little dicking around of stuff you have to do.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25243-kaz24-build-thread-compression-questions-cam-header-done/

 

Pardon the lack of pictures, I still haven't managed to upload all of them to photobucket.  Used to be on my website, which has since lapsed.

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I pondered a Z24/ single cam ka motor for a short time. I was not able to find a source for a performance camshaft. I found a couple of mild ones, but nothing that would really wake it up. Any thoughts?  

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Too damn much, but you can't find anyone else making cams that aren't expensive.  It was somewhere around 220 or something if I remember.  You do have to ship your cam to Canada for the regrind, make sure you do it in a bomb-proof box.  Mine made the journey just fine.

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I pondered a Z24/ single cam ka motor for a short time. I was not able to find a source for a performance camshaft. I found a couple of mild ones, but nothing that would really wake it up. Any thoughts?  

.

Do you mean the Z24 cam?

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