NEED CARB HELP!! Video attached.

[metalmonkey47]

I'm having problems with my new Weber 32/36 that I installed. Hooked everything but the choke and throttle lines up, because I can work that by hand. The car won't idle, at first I thought it was because the engine was cold, but after it warmed up it was still not idling, and if I opened the choke the slightest bit, it would drop the high idle slightly and start missing. No idle at ALL!!

 

Take 1.

 

Take 2.

Edited May 26, 2010 by metalmonkey47

[banzai510(hainz)]

you adjust the mixture screw????????maybe ck idle jet to make sure its not plugged up.

 

make sure not to crack the adapterplate. this will cause a leak and have no vaccum thus no idle.

[metalmonkey47]

you adjust the mixture screw????????maybe ck idle jet to make sure its not plugged up.

 

make sure not to crack the adapterplate. this will cause a leak and have no vaccum thus no idle.

 

Nothings been touched since the last car it was on. How can I check the idle jet without pulling the carb apart?

 

 

The adapter is sealed, so there should be no leak. It runs fine above idle.

[izzo]

Check your air/fuel mixture too, along with the idle screw, etc.. Just because it ran ok on the last car doesn't mean its tuned for your car :D

 

Oh, also!!

 

CHECK CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK for vacuum leaks. You never know, there could be one. fire the car up, use your hand to rev it up a little bit and spray some brake cleaner aroudn the base of the carb. if it dies off when you spray it around there you do have a leak. Unlikely since it runs above idle tho. But then again, after watching that second video. Almost seems like its getting to much air, and when you close the choke like that its making it so that it gets the right amount... Keep playing with it you will get it :D

[metalmonkey47]

Check your air/fuel mixture too, along with the idle screw, etc.. Just because it ran ok on the last car doesn't mean its tuned for your car :D

 

Oh, also!!

 

CHECK CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK for vacuum leaks. You never know, there could be one. fire the car up, use your hand to rev it up a little bit and spray some brake cleaner aroudn the base of the carb. if it dies off when you spray it around there you do have a leak. Unlikely since it runs above idle tho. But then again, after watching that second video. Almost seems like its getting to much air, and when you close the choke like that its making it so that it gets the right amount... Keep playing with it you will get it :D

 

Vac seems good, but like you said, you never know. I had to fidget with it since it only has one vaccum port, and my vac lines are for 2 with the old Hitachi.

 

I think I had an exhaust leak coming from my EGR. Is it possible that is causing or at least contributing? If you listen in the second video you can hear a whistling that seems more prominent at high RPM's that I only heard for that one time. This time I'm smelling exhaust around my EGR port that I blocked off with a piece of sheet metal that I cut last night.

[izzo]

Vac seems good, but like you said, you never know. I had to fidget with it since it only has one vaccum port, and my vac lines are for 2 with the old Hitachi.

 

I think I had an exhaust leak coming from my EGR. Is it possible that is causing or at least contributing? If you listen in the second video you can hear a whistling that seems more prominent at high RPM's that I only heard for that one time. This time I'm smelling exhaust around my EGR port that I blocked off with a piece of sheet metal that I cut last night.

 

 

wait... lol... So, you took your egr stuff off correct, and just put a piece of metal there? Thats probably where the leak is. Take a picture so i can better understand, but im guessing its leaking from there. Goto the parts store and get some "Gasket Paper" and make yourself a gasket for it, use some RTV (a little anyways around the outside edge)

 

i made my own plate too off my old bumper :rofl: And it leaked a little and ran like poo, so i got an EGR gasket out of my L20 gasket kit and put it on there, works fine now.

 

[metalmonkey47]

I'll get a picture after work. That's what I'm thinking, but I'm just speculating. I DO have a gasket on it and it is the proper gasket, but if the metal isn't perfectly flat, it will never work.

 

Would JB weld work to seal it?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had a adapter crack screwing around with the carb thinking it was bad but really was a worn out Bushing on a Point dizzy. So after I repalce the adapter it idled fine.

The mixture adjustment is the screw with the tension spring at the base of the carb near the valve cover side. this should be about 1.5 turns outs)from botton or IN.

maybe turn out in half turn increments hopefully it will get running.

 

the idle jet is the valve cover side up. its a brass screw. pull it out and the idle jet will be on there.

olddatsuns.com has most info on this. I cant post phtotas anymore otherwise I show you a photo.

 

Most cars will run fine above idle cause your pumping gas in using the accell pump on the carb and getting more vaccum . but if you go just to idle you need vaccum to suck the gas thru the circut but more air is getting pulled in than gas. Thats why it runs when choke plate is pulled cause your blocking a cirtain amount of air and pulling more gas in the circut

[metalmonkey47]

Theres my EGR block off.

 

I'm going to go ahead and reset my idle speed, mixture, and all that crap to factory specs and see what it does. I'm gonna see about checking for leaks at my EGR, because I think that's contributing to the problem.

 

The OldDatsuns.com tech for the 32/36 isn't working either :(

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3467&KW

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im not positive But when converting to a stock carb to weber DGV I never use the stock Fonolic spacer that was with the stock carb. I only use gaskets between the manifold and adapter,gasket between adapter to carb.

[izzo]

That looks like it could be the problem. just fire it up with the choke close so its running, then shoot some brake cleaner up under that metal piece you made. see if it starts dying off. I would suspect that but who knows. Looks like you have the adapter right, did you use nice new gaskets?

[metalmonkey47]

That looks like it could be the problem. just fire it up with the choke close so its running, then shoot some brake cleaner up under that metal piece you made. see if it starts dying off. I would suspect that but who knows. Looks like you have the adapter right, did you use nice new gaskets?

 

Yeah, I used new gaskets. It doesn't seem to be leaking on my block off.

 

But I'm pretty sure I found the culprit.

 

 

 

 

 

Then here's mine...

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

ON my DGVs the red mark you put is plugged. Put your finger over it and if it idles then that the proplem.But usually anything from the topis just to help burn off fumes as it gets sucked in.

 

In my experience if it dont IDLE the leak is below the carb

[jesusno2]

I normally silicone the shit outta those carb adapters. I hate silicon but it works well.

[metalmonkey47]

ON my DGVs the red mark you put is plugged. Put your finger over it and if it idles then that the proplem.But usually anything from the topis just to help burn off fumes as it gets sucked in.

 

In my experience if it dont IDLE the leak is below the carb

I suppose I'll have to pull it tomorrow if it ever stops raining and see what's up with it. I knew it couldn't be thissss easy to setup a new carb.

 

I normally silicone the shit outta those carb adapters. I hate silicon but it works well.

 

Yeah, it may be my only choice here. :P

[metalmonkey47]

So I pulled off my carb, and nothing stands out. No cracks or damage. Put it back on, sealed my exhaust leak and vac leak, and now the throttle response is up and theirs no missing, but still no idle

[Sealik]

So I pulled off my carb, and nothing stands out. No cracks or damage. Put it back on, sealed my exhaust leak and vac leak, and now the throttle response is up and theirs no missing, but still no idle

I would eliminate any possibility of a vacuum leak. Vacuum gauge should read between 18-22 lbs at idle......if you can get it to idle that is :) You can also adjust your idle mix while watching the amount (lbs) of vacuum your engine is producing, try to obtain the highest readings. As Hainz suggested....start with the idle mix screw at 1.5 turns CCW, and work from there.

[datzenmike]

That an idle cut solenoid in your picture??? Sure it has 12 volts to it when running. Can you hear the solenoid click when turning the key on off on off???

[Sealik]

That an idle cut solenoid in your picture??? Sure it has 12 volts to it when running. Can you hear the solenoid click when turning the key on off on off???

 

I don't think there is one on that Mike....?

Should be in front of the electric choke....?

[Sealik]

There is....I was looking at the wrong pic :confused:

[metalmonkey47]

I would eliminate any possibility of a vacuum leak. Vacuum gauge should read between 18-22 lbs at idle......if you can get it to idle that is :) You can also adjust your idle mix while watching the amount (lbs) of vacuum your engine is producing, try to obtain the highest readings. As Hainz suggested....start with the idle mix screw at 1.5 turns CCW, and work from there.

I'll reset my mixture again in the morning and see what she does :)

 

That an idle cut solenoid in your picture??? Sure it has 12 volts to it when running. Can you hear the solenoid click when turning the key on off on off???

 

Yes sir it is. It's hooked up and I'm pretty sure it has 12 volts, or else I wouldn't have fuel through the jets, right? I never paid attention to any clicking though. If this is it I'm going to feel very stupid

[datzenmike]

Clicking isn't proof it's working (probably it is) not clicking would tell me it isn't. The idle cut on a Weber may function differently than the Hitachi.

[Sealik]

I believe the Weber will have the anti-dieseling solenoid......which cuts fuel only on keyed shutoff....?

Whereas.... the Hitachi's idle cut solenoid shuts fuel off, when (vacuum) switches detect changes in vacuum on deceleration

 

I think :huh: :)

 

Often wondered if the Weber with the AntiD solenoid will work in tandem with the stock 720 IC circuit.....?

[Sealik]

But...that's another query

 

:cool:

[datzenmike]

I believe the Weber will have the anti-dieseling solenoid......which cuts fuel only on keyed shutoff....?

Whereas.... the Hitachi's idle cut solenoid shuts fuel off, when (vacuum) switches detect changes in vacuum on deceleration

 

I think :huh: :)

 

Often wondered if the Weber with the AntiD solenoid will work in tandem with the stock 720 IC circuit.....?

 

Doug the idle cut has been around for a long time. Normally it cuts fuel to the idle circuit when the key is shut off to help kill the motor. But if you think about it every time you let off on the gas and coast, fuel is being sucked into the motor and wasted. The smart boys at Nissan devised a way to use a vacuum switch on the 720 to use the idle cut to cut fuel flow during deceleration. This reduces emissions and saves fuel! Long before the motor can stall the idle cut is removed.