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how 2......shave a 620 cowl


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Ever wanted to shave your 620 cowl & did'nt know how ? well here ya go. Basic welding & bodywork skills are a must to do this but it's not rocket science :cool:

1st use a grinder with a thin cut off wheel to remove the "vents". Cut them as close to the edge as possible...

4-21-09cowl1.jpg

then make a template out of cardboard. Lay it over a piece of sheetmetal & trace,when you cut you'll wanna cut right on the line you made..

4-21-09cowl2.jpg

& now SLOWLY tack the filler piece until you have a solid bead all the way around. Then use the same cut off wheel on the grinder to gently grind the welds smooth...

4-21-09cowl5.jpg

youll wanna spread a generous layer of seam sealer on the perimiter of the filler piece on the underside. This will prevent moisture from entering...

4-21-09cowl4.jpg

then primer & paint over the seam sealer after it dries.......

4-21-09cowl7.jpg

next apply a few skim coats of body filler, sand, & primer....

4-21-09cowl8.jpg

12-12cowl5.jpg

Ive shaved a few 620 cowls & it takes me a few days. But, take your time & dont rush it. Any ?'s PM me ill be glad to help out :cool:

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Guest DatsuNoob

I did one today actually. I just traced mine out with a sharpie, trimmed to fit, tacked in randomly making sure everything was flushed up with some magnets, and ground it all down with some 40gt rolocs. Took the better part of a day, but they DO look SO much better and well worth the time it takes. I'll get some pics of mine, I havent put any filler on yet, should only need a very small amount though.

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I guess it's ok in Calli but how does your heater get air for defrost?

Good question Mike. On my 620 the blower motor doesnt even work & theres no roof so defrost is the least of my worries :rolleyes:

I did the same mod on my HB & the defrost along w/ the blower motor still works great.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm gonna nit pick here, but I believe that the seam for the filler panel should be fully welded. Doing so negates the need for seam sealer prevents any moisture from ever getting behind the body filler. I don't claim to be a body man but in my opinion that is the right way to do it.

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I'm gonna nit pick here, but I believe that the seam for the filler panel should be fully welded. Doing so negates the need for seam sealer prevents any moisture from ever getting behind the body filler. I don't claim to be a body man but in my opinion that is the right way to do it.

Duke you are correct sir. I did indeed run enough tack welds until it was a solid bead. The pic i took was before that step was done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A tip for those with a compressor but no welder(don't really need a compressor either I suppose)...

I've shaved a few things in my time and decided I didn't like all the welding, grinding and filler work. I started using a flange tool and "small body panel adhesive". My ol' air powered flanger had a 1/4" throat so I'd just add that amount to my patch, spread the goo, clamp it down and go about my bidness. Then I'd use a fiber disc, wire wheel or spot blaster to clean out the seam and spread some filler in there with a plastic razor blade to minimize how much filler I had to use. Works great! No heat = No distortion.

I've tested the Fusor stuff myself and verified that when used properly it has a higher yield point than a series of plug or spot welds. Also if you use factory metal the advantage of factory paint protection is a plus if you don't plan on stripping your car to bare metal for a repaint. You'll use less material 'cause you won't mess up as much area surrounding your shave.

 

Shave on my non welding brothas!

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heres a little tip for ya too (although ya might not have the problems i had) when making a template for those pesky body panels or sheetmetal in general. a great template maker is construction paper. its way more precise so ya dont wind up with gaps to try and fill. of coarse i like to tig panels in, but either way it helps alot try it sometime works like a champ, learned that from a old timer.

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  • 5 months later...

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