weld rear end

[lil89ram50]

hey does any one have any pictures of a welded diff? and how to remove it?? i have the general idea, but i want to be sure i get it right.... please help out guys..

[datzenmike]

Should come out the same as a non welded one. Only the spider and side gears should have weld on them but it pretty much pooches the carrier. BTW what rear end are we talking about?

 

Only the ring and pinion has a possibility of being saved. Look at this mess:

 

 

Unbelievable. This shit is on the street where I drive.

 

 

 

.

[Farmer Joe]

is this gonna be for the rearend i the 720 that your building? if you weld it, your gonna have to beef up the rear suspension. also the axles are gonna get getting alot of wear and tear if this is gonna be driven daily.

 

i welded up an s10 7.5in rearend for my buddies 327 luv once and the spiders ate up the welds after about a week of driving it around town. welded it up again, and broke and axle at the turn-around-area at the drag strip.

[motavated]

Should come out the same as a non welded one. Only the spider and side gears should have weld on them but it pretty much pooches the carrier. BTW what rear end are we talking about?

 

Only the ring and pinion has a possibility of being saved. Look at this mess:

 

Unbelievable. This shit is on the street where I drive.

 

 

 

.

 

What is wrong with those welds....... How would you weld it? all of it in?

[datzenmike]

Not the welds. For all I know about welding they might be fine. It's the fact that this is no substitute for a good LSD. This is fine for straight ahead drag racing or for closed course racing but has no business being on the street. This is cheap ass ricer technology. I can see kids with their dad's sparkler and little skill or understanding, welding up hardened gears with who knows what rod or heat setting.

[Skib]

This is cheap ass ricer technology. I can see kids with their dad's sparkler and little skill or understanding, welding up hardened gears with who knows what rod or heat setting.

 

 

Its JDM yo! :P

[thisismatt]

Only retards weld their differentials.

 

[motavated]

AHHAHHAHHAHHAHA! Were the fuck are these pictures found?!?!?!? O geez.....

[lil89ram50]

ok so where can one find a good lsd for an 85 720 with out replacung the whole rearend?? and yes i have beefed up my rear end :)

[PEZi720]

i haven't heard any details... what is your build for? i'm one of those people that thinks welded is fine so long as you don't daily drive it... things like closed course racing and drag are fine though

 

IF you plan on welding... take it out... take it to A RELIABLE SHOP... and tell them its for track use only

[74datsun620]

Although I don't think LINCOLN lockers are a good ideal. It is better to TIG weld hardened parts. The reason I don't like welding the rear end is the stress on stock parts can cause breakage. In a race car parts always break in bad spots and have seen to many cars go on there roof with broken axles. So I would at least have the stock axles magnafluxed for cracks.

 

 

[datzenmike]

ok so where can one find a good lsd for an 85 720 with out replacung the whole rearend?? and yes i have beefed up my rear end :)

 

Define 'beefed up'.

 

According to Nissan Motorsports, Detroit Locker makes a locker that will fit the H190 rear differential. However, the 3/8" holes will have to be drilled out to accept the 10mm bolts used in the H190. See the Nissan Motorsports Parts Catalog for details.

 

 

 

Nissan Motorsports

PO Box 191

Gardena, CA 90248-0191

Tel: (310) 538-2610

Nissan Performance Parts

 

 

And, if still in business:

 

4 West

650 East Valley Blvd.

Colton CA 92324-3122

(909)824-0024

Fax(909)824-3553

Or 1-800-854-WEST

 

LSD for'87-'95 Frontier The 4 cylinder truck should have H190 in it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[74datsun620]

If you can afford the detriot locker datzenmike posted I would go that way, Thank you mike for this info its better choice.

[lil89ram50]

well pezi we are building this truck mainly to drift... and i have coil overs n a panhard bar, and hace cnotched the frame slightly... but soon it will have a triangulated 4 link with new coulovers and a full notch

 

n whats the price on the locker mike? or do i have to call?

[lil89ram50]

wow never mind mike i found it!!! hell no i cannot afford that! wow thats rediculous

[MicroMachinery]

Only retards weld their differentials.

 

 

LOL :rofl:

[thisismatt]

wow never mind mike i found it!!! hell no i cannot afford that! wow thats rediculous

That's normal going rate for a nissan LSD except perhaps a newer, more common one you might find in a salvage yard.

[ariascarlos1990]

wow never mind mike i found it!!! hell no i cannot afford that! wow thats rediculous

 

oh come on its only $737.78.

 

:P

[datzenmike]

Redickaless is welding them up and driving on the street. Off road, it's your call.

[jesusno2]

Jesus someone needs to lean how to weld! Welded diffs aren't that damn bad ever ridden in a rig with detroit locker I honestley think their worse welded diffs are predictable lockers are not they bang click pop around corners etc. I've welded lots of diffs up. Its not the right way and a lsd is a lot better I agree. On the other hand lsd diffs wear out especially if used hard. Also lsd's don't hook that great unless their tight then your still got chatter going around corners which makes them feel like a welded diff. I have a H190 lsd I'm gonna put in my 510 wagon soon we'll see how it works out. I got another diff I might weld up if I don't like the lsd.

[astro_ss_340]

stick weld it to do a good job, and if you can't stick weld pay some one to do it, its the best way to weld a diff.

 

nothing wrong with welding diffs either, just annoying to some people when your inside tire chirps around corners, no different with putting in a spool, same thing essentially. Worst case you brake an axle, and most of the time thats done with too much traction and not enough power loading them up with torque

[datzenmike]

Not the same, true the locking type act the same if enough power is applied to lock them but they do unlock to allow different wheel speeds in a turn. A welded differential is 'like' a locker that never un-locks so you don't have control of traction when turning. A welded diff has no place on the street.

[astro_ss_340]

spool is different from a LSD, spool is solid all the time. Why do you believe that a welded diff has no place on the streets, I am open minded and would honestly like to hear your point of view, I am quick to admit I am young and naive. So if you can, enlighten me please. I am always willing to learn

[datzenmike]

For straight ahead driving the following need not apply, but in a turn, the outer wheel travels further than the inner one. The sharper the turn the bigger the difference. An open rear end allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds, in fact an LSD will allow this too (with some resistance). This allows both rear wheels to remain in contact with the pavement even if it is wet or there is poor traction.

 

Understeer: Initially, when starting a turn a welded diff will fight any turn input and will tend to 'plough' straight ahead. In order to turn, some traction loss must occur on one or both rear tires.

 

 

Oversteer:This all comes down to drifting where traction loss is paramount. The whole idea is to spin the rear wheels to loose traction and force the car into extreme oversteer. That's fine, but on the street you do not want traction loss oversteer. It's unsafe, dangerous, foolish and illegal to intentionally loose control of your vehicle on public roads no matter how good you think you are. Not trying to preach here just saying that there is a place for this type of driving.

 

 

When both wheels are locked together in a turn, and assuming that weight transfers to the outside of the car and increases the outer tire's traction, the inner is forced to break traction and spin at the same speed. This only leaves the outer wheel to keep the rear end from sliding sideways. Admittedly it can be a small amount but assume worst case scenarios. The curving road is gravel, wet pavement or leaf covered and dark so you can't anticipate. Dry pavement but sharp twisty turns with varying cross fall. You are driving a moderate speed but someone runs a red light and you must steer and brake sharply to avoid a collision.

 

In all three: bad traction (oversteer), complex turns with weight transfers and steering, (understeer/oversteer) and sudden hard steering with panic breaking, (oversteer) there is potential for loss of control even in an open differential, so locking with weld is not the way to go here.

 

"It'll never happen to me, I got game" You might, but there are other's out there who don't. There's an old saying: "There are old drivers, and bold drivers. But there are no old bold drivers"

[astro_ss_340]

So I see your point of view, its not for the inexperienced. And as an experienced professional truck driver I see enough people everyday in the city that can't even handle a "normal" vehicle. I understand the physics and did before hand as well. Thank you for refreshing myself and others that may have not known the "basic common sense"

 

Driven my friends race truck with a spool around town and it takes some gettin used to but its manageable for me.

 

Just out of curiosity you would not happen to be a police officer would you?