Pointers on paint and body work?

[sick620]

I will be doing my own bodywork and my own paint for the first time (oh my! :blink: ) . I bought myself some filler, sand paper, and primer. Im going to be using the bondo on all these little bolt holes.....

 

 

and on a few small imperfections like these

 

 

 

Do you have any advice for a first timer like me on doing these things?

 

Any helpful hints,insights, pointers,?

 

Any preferences on paint brands?

 

Pointers on painting?

(im using a gravity fed air sprayer)

 

and last but not least WHAT COLOR? :D

[thisismatt]

You should weld, or have someone weld, the holes. Really, that's the best thing you can do and shouldn't cost a ton to have done if you can't do it yourself.

[sick620]

I would rather use filler. There are lots of small holes and its not worth my time cutting and welding every small hole.

[sanitys]

I will be doing my own bodywork and my own paint for the first time (oh my! :blink: ) . I bought myself some filler, sand paper, and primer. Im going to be using the bondo on all these little bolt holes.....

 

Do you have any advice for a first timer like me on doing these things?

 

Any helpful hints,insights, pointers,?

 

Any preferences on paint brands?

 

Pointers on painting?

(im using a gravity fed air sprayer)

 

and last but not least WHAT COLOR? :D

 

 

 

Weld the bolt holes closed. get em as nice as possible finish with bondo

 

pound out those dents, either with the body hammers or one of those dent pullers. You want the least amount of bondo as possible.

 

most of a paint jobs end result is in the prep work. Dont be lazy, do it right....IE that one high/low spot that you said is good enough. If no1 else notices it, you will always notice it and it will eat away at you, or atleast thats how I am with things.

 

As far as paint brands, if you stick with the main brands you should be fine. Some suggest not mixing brands.

 

Wetsanding and buffing out the tiny bit of orange peel does wonders and makes the paint job look so much better.

 

Take out all the glass, and do the door jams, engine comparment.

 

Im sure alot of other people will chime in.

 

 

 

 

edit, matt beat me to some of my long winded reply

[sick620]

the two dents look worse than they are. I hammered the shiz out of them already to get them that good.

[sanitys]

the two dents look worse than they are. I hammered the shiz out of them already to get them that good.

 

from the pictures it still looks like there are high spots, as well as low spots, for the high spots you can use the body hammer and some heat to try and shrink the metal back...

 

those bolt holes where the mirrors go, weld em. If you ever want to mount mirrors there again you will thank me.

[fastdadd]

make sure the filler is dry before adding more or it will crack on you

[sick620]

should I allow the filler to go in the hole or do I just cover the hole?

[INDY510]

Filler should go in the hole and around the hole,,, and a piece of fiberglass cloth slightly larger than the hole pressed directly into the "wet" bondo

Two layers of fiberglass for each hole....... it will last longer, without cracking

 

Go to a Hardware store and get a small piece of fiberglass cloth....

 

How to fill holes with bondo and fiberglass:

(1): grind and sand the surface clean (2): put a thin layer of bondo in, and around the hole (3) Cut a piece of fiberglass about twice the size of the hole (4) tap the fiberglass into the "wet" bondo (5) put a layer of bondo over the fiberglass,,,, be carefull not to move the piece of fiberglass away from the hole

(6) sand,,,,, sand,,,, grind,,,, sand,,,, breathe some dust,,,, sand,,, more dust ,,, sand

 

Anywhere the bondo is over a 1/4" thick should be re-inforced with fiberglass

 

For holes: "Bondo Glass" is WAY stronger than normal bondo,,, it is thicker and has strands of fiberglass in it...... it is green.... and doesn't chip off like grey/pink bondo.

You should still use the fiberglass cloth with it though...

 

Last tip: Make a small batch of bondo and try a "test" area with the fiberglass

Once the bondo starts to harden: STOP,, and DO NOT touch it until it is hard

 

The key is the surface you are laying bondo on: it NEEDS to be absolutley clean,, and sanded.....

Some grinder "scuff" marks will help the bondo stick

[sick620]

so the fiberglass screen gos on the outside as close to the metal as possible right?

[sick620]

NICE INFO INDY!

[INDY510]

so the fiberglass screen gos on the outside as close to the metal as possible right?

Yeah.... it helps if the hole is slightly dented in,,, so you can sand it, and leave the fiberglass over lapping the hole

 

Unless you can get behind the hole,,,, then use the same teqnique,,,, and build up the strength from the other side...

 

If you are really confused I could take some pics,, or a video tomorrow

[72240z]

I agree with welding the holes. Even if you don't have a welder you can use led/brazing rod or sim. Tack a penny in place behind the hole then just fill the gap with weld and grind/sand flush, no bondo needed. Glassing it will work but its more complicated and not the correct way to do it. You also still have to use bondo over the glass. Ideally in body work you try not to use bondo where ever you can.

 

With the dents hammer as much as possible, really just sit down take your time and slowly get them back to par. A good body guy wouldn't need bondo at all the hammers alone could fix it. It's okay that you have to use bondo for it but try and use as little as possible, and the only way to do that is time and the body hammers.

 

I'm not anti bondo all together, I have used my fair share. Metal is just always going to be better esp on something like a truck thats going to be bouncing all over and getting used all proper like lol. :cool:

[INDY510]

You also still have to use bondo over the glass

No resin needed........ Fiberglass pressed into wet bondo,,, and then a thin layer of the same batch of bondo over the glass....

 

I know it isn't the "right" way to do body work,,, but if the surface is poperly prepped it will last a couple years before cracking.....

 

If cracks are un-acceptable........ then weld

 

I have been fiberglassing surfboards for years,,, and I can't weld....

[sanitys]

I am not anti bondo or fiberglass...

 

one thing that hasnt been covered for you, is what type of cloth, fiberglass weave or fiberglass strand. there is also different weight cloth. Lastly there is also different types of resin. There is poly and epoxy. If you go that route, those topics should also be covered.

 

You can also consider kitty hair or similar to add some strength...

 

aside from molding fiberglass audio/visual stuff, fixing surfboards, I dont have alot of experience using it for body work, The only holes Ive ever done with glass were filling spoiler holes in a spare 240 trunk lid.

 

If you weld, just dont use too much heat, the thin metal warps easily...buying fiberglass mats can get spendy, it might be cheaper to just have a buddy weld up the holes for you.

[72240z]

Ya see thats another thing metal is going to last for ever at the same or less cost. Stronger? Less complicated? Lots of bonuses.

FG is an option I personally just don't like it.

 

Indy be fair man anyone could do that kind of welding. It's like filling in one of those answer sheets circles with a number 2 pencil lol, tap tap tap, filled, sand it it down your done. So long as your just tapping heat won't be an issue, it's like stitching in place. Good call bringing heat up though, def don't want warping.

[sanitys]

Ya see thats another thing metal is going to last for ever at the same or less cost. Stronger? Less complicated? Lots of bonuses.

FG is an option I personally just don't like it.

 

Indy be fair man anyone could do that kind of welding. It's like filling in one of those answer sheets circles with a number 2 pencil lol, tap tap tap, filled, sand it it down your done. So long as your just tapping heat won't be an issue, it's like stitching in place. Good call bringing heat up though, def don't want warping.

 

his kinks in his fender probably need heat to shrink the metal back down for the high spots. so i guess heat can be your friend or your enemy :/ all the stuff ive suggested is why I spend the extra and have someone else do my body work.

[INDY510]

Most hardware stores only carry one type of fiberglass cloth....... and it shouldnt be more than $10 for a package (3'x5')

Again: "Bondo Glass" (the green bondo) is 100 times better for filling holes than grey/pink Bondo

 

Sanding:

 

I reccomend using a power sander (orbital or block)..... Start with a 40 grit.... and try to get everything even...

 

Then use 80 grit..... then 120..... and spend extra time around the window seals, door jams, edges of all panels (first place to peel)

 

When everything looks even and the filler is done, and sanded, and smooth...... Use 220 grit over the whole truck.

Should look like this:

 

 

I painted the primer after the final 220 grit sanding.....

Then started wet sanding...

 

But I think it will be a few weeks before you are ready for that.....

 

DO NOT leave any filler outside overnight.... you should at least paint some rattle can primer over any bare metal and filler spots....

GOOD LUCK,,,, I have been painting my 510 for two years.... but I am doing the door jams, engine bay, under-coat, interior.... re-hanging the doors..... I will NEVER try this again

[sick620]

 

This is the type of cloth I got..... Its bondo brand fiberglass cloth.

[INDY510]

That will work fine....... I will post some pics tommorow after I fill my mirror holes.

 

Do you have a place indoors to paint?? Any moisture in the air will ruin paint.... and the temp must be above 55 degrees

 

Also any dust in the air will stick to your wet paint.

[sick620]

 

 

I got all different grit sandpaper, orbital sander, vibrating sander, dust masks, bondo, fibergloss cloth, bondo application Spackle's, lots of primer, gloves, safety glasses, and other misc. items

[sick620]

That will work fine....... I will post some pics tommorow after I fill my mirror holes.

 

Do you have a place indoors to paint?? Any moisture in the air will ruin paint.... and the temp must be above 55 degrees

 

Also any dust in the air will stick to your wet paint.

Ya I have a garage. I live in idaho, VERY DRY PLACE. That would be great if you posted pictures indy. Thanks for all the advice!

[420n620]

sick, I don't see a manuel long board, it is a must have if you want to keep your surface flat where bond is applied.

[sick620]

well I guess Im listening to you bastards and im welding the damn holes :fu: Im going to wash her up real good today and start sanding it down to the metal by all the holes. Ill still be using bondo on some of the problem areas.

[INDY510]

Do you still need me to shoot an instructional video for mirror holes?

 

It would probably be later tonight if you are interested

 

You should weld the holes anyway.......... it will last longer