Weber 38/38 to large for a Z24?

[720Joe]

Just curious, any ideas?

[bolkowy]

Just curious, any ideas?

 

 

any modifications to make it breath better like a cam or??

[datzenmike]

I would say yes, too big. Although the Z24 is a larger motor it's not high revving where it will need it. Also does the 38/38 open both barrels at the same time? 32/36 should be enough.

[720Joe]

The only mods done are electric fan and a freer flowing exhaust. The 38/38 does open both barrels at the same time.

 

The only reason I was/am considering the 38 was because I have the oppurtunity to get one for $40, in good condition.

[datzenmike]

Well then I guess that's not too much to try an experiment then. :D Sell it when you're done if you don't like it. I think you will find the both barrels opening together will require you to step 'into it' slowly. Too much at once and I think the motor will fall on it's face. This carb would be better suited for the track where the engine RPMs never drop below 4-5K.

[720Joe]

Well, I don't like that, I prefer my midrange power, especially with this 'larger' 4 cylinder. ...but, it wouldn't be to bad, seeing as I like to slide.

[greybeard]

I had one on my 620 when it was still 2wd, but had the first L24B, 5 speed and stock 73 rear gears.

 

it worked well and had lots of power, the problem was with the low gearing, if you steped on the gas too hard in first or second, it would throw you back in the seat and pull your foot off the gas, this would slow the truck and throw you forward in the seat and back on the gas, in turn the truck would jump forward throwing you back in the seat... you get the picture... it would do this hard enough to slam the passangers head into the back glass.

 

it worked ok on the street, but was totally undrivable off-road because of this. the same carb. and manifold worked great on my friends 510 with a hot L20B.

 

for 40 bux give it a try, if you dont like it, I'll buy it from you for $50.00 ;)

[720Joe]

I deffinetly will give it a try, if I don't like it i'm sure I could trade it for a 32/36.

 

greybeard, school me on the L24B, I only know of an L24E, is it perhaps a typo?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ill buy it for 40,50 60$ for it

[racerx]

Being familiar with a 38/38, since I was going to put this on my 75 Celica and my datsun, it is too much carb unless you have built up the engine, like cam, header, heads, etc. The difference between the 32/36 and 38/38 is that the 38/38 is bigger bore and will open up together not like the 32/36 which is a progressive type.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had one on My 521 L16 with a 460 cam.

It went good,real good was jetted for a landcruiser

 

only part i hated was I could kill it(clutch) on a hill. really had to rev it up otherwise a load would kill it just off idle on a hill.

 

after I took intake off it was totally black inside head/valves and half way inside the intake. I assume it was too richj a jetting for my motor. went back But it worked good.

 

If you have a DGV already on there it isnt much to just try it out since it uses the same adapter.

[datsunaholic]

I have a 38DGAS on my '74 620 with an L20B. Kinda lopes at idle... cam is kinda funny. Gobs of power but way too rich when opened up.

[datsunfish]

The one on my 510 with L20b excelerated fine but would load up at idle. I could have corrected the crappy idle and loading up with different jets but I installed a fully built a87 head fully ported,450 cam,280z valves on the same block and now it purrs great with TONs of high rpm power. I would say it should be fine on a z24 but like they say you would have to feather into the throttle a bit and possibly change idle jets. Great price for a great carb. Well worth slapping it on and then telling US just how good it works. If it sucks,myself or many another ratsuner would gladly trade you a 32/36 dgv for it. DOOOO IIIIIT!

[720Joe]

Haha, well I guess I'll just have to see how it works ^_^

Anything would be better then the ole' hitachi.

[79D50]

The 38MM is designed for modified motors. You can get away running stock if you have a big 4 cylinder with big valves etc. The l18 and l20 stock would be an overcarbbed situation. This is why you are running rich and bogging down etc. It's driveable but not ideal.

 

The 38 is dual synchronous meaning both barrels open up at the same time all the time. If you have extensive head work i.e. port/polish, valve grind, springs, CAM etc etc then it works great.

 

I had one on my old 2.6 and also on my new modified 2.6 that has never been fired. CFM is rated at 426 but some articles and books say 390. Let's split the difference for arguments sake and settle on an even 400 CFM. It is a lot of carb for a small motor.

 

For $40 dollars buy it and try it. New they are $400. Used they are in the $200 range. You just made yourself some money and you can expirement.

 

38's are also an excellent platform for a blow-thru application. Whether this is a turbo or supercharger the only modification you need to make to the carb is the float. The brass floats are thin walled and will collapse under pressure. The nitro filled plastic floats will not collapse and are $12 from WEBER Direct. Jetting can remain the same if you are happy with the driveability.

 

I am currently working with WEBER Direct and Procharger for my 2.6 and the carb is set to go. I just have to build the bracket, FAB the piping to the intercooler, and make a custom crank pulley. After looking into this I thought this was a wild goose chase but you would be surprised on how many people Procharger and WEBER Direct have set up with this system.

 

The 38 is an awesome carb.

[RustyRat4x4]

Had a 38/38 on my '83 720 KC 4x4. Had the Z24 fully rebuilt, put in mild regrind cam from a local cam shop(about .015" larger lift and 10 deg more duration), Pacesetter header w/old Thrush muffler, and a pair of Blaster 2 coils...The stock carb was a dog compared to the 38/38, but maybe it was my carb (hence the reason for a Weber.) Neither carb jumped off idle with little effort; they both needed a little timed coordination by the feet, but the 38/38 had much better mid to top-end performance..

 

Of course jetting is the key.. pretty sure mine had: 145 mains, 185 air correctors, and 50 idles..

Stock production jetting is: 142 mains, 185 air correctors, 45 idles... which was a little lean, but not much, for my engine set-up but may work out for yours. Altitude and temperature are the key's in jetting..

 

Have a 32/36 on my 76 620 4x4 L20B. Now that engine loves the 32/36; like a tractor off the line and on the trails. Friend calls it my 'little sewing machine'. I haven't tried the 38/38 yet like datsunaholic says but I've thought about it a lot since I still have the carb. Of course the Z24 has more HP and Torque than the L20B.. it all depends on how fast one wants to accelerate to the destination...

 

Either Weber is a great choice, just depends on how you plan to drive it. Of course the smaller, progressive carb is more for drive-ability and MPG; the larger, synchronous carb is more for throttle response and performance applications. hope this helped!!!

[greybeard]

greybeard, school me on the L24B, I only know of an L24E, is it perhaps a typo?

 

Joe,

 

sorry for the delayed response, I have not visited this thread in a while...

 

L24B, no typo

 

just what I call the motors that others here call the LZ,

 

There was a 6 cyl 2.0 L series called the L-20 so when Nissan

built the 4 cyl. 2.0 they called it the L20B, and as Nissan built a 6 cyl 2.4, the L24, a 4 cyl 2.4 would naturally

be called an L24B.

 

 

 

how's that carb working for you??

[datzenmike]

 

There was a 6 cyl 2.0 L series called the L-20 so when Nissan

built the 4 cyl. 2.0 they called it the L20B, and as Nissan built a 6 cyl 2.4, the L24, a 4 cyl 2.4 would naturally

be called an L24B.

 

 

Ehh.... a four cylinder 2.4 is either a KA24 or a Z24. The Z24 is the next generation after the L series and while some parts will interchange it isn't really an L24B. The last L20B was made in '80 and the Z24 in '83. If you were to fit the Z24 crank rods and pistons into an L20B then I'll give you credit for having made an L24B. Otherwise it's a Z24 with L head or to avoid confusion an LZ24 that everyone agrees on.

[greybeard]

Hmmm

 

L-20 and Z-20 share block and internal parts, Ztype just uses the new cyl. head.

 

Z-20 evolves into the Z-22, and as the L-18 grew more deck height

to become the L-20B the Z-20/22 grew still more deck height to become the Z24...... L24B

 

Just what I've always called it since I built my first one in the mid 80's

 

If you were to fit the Z24 crank rods and pistons into an L20B then I'll give you credit for having made an L24B. Otherwise it's a Z24 with L head

 

Mike, this is like saying an L-20B can't be an L-20B unless the crank rods and pistons fits in an L-18 block.

 

The Z motors are an evolution of the L series,basicly the same block only more deck height.

 

the K motors are indeed a new design that share some dimentions with the L series.

[CharlieW]

I was wondering if you got the 38/38 on your z24? Tthat is exactly what I plan on doing to mine and wondered how yours turned out.

[izzo]

i had the same weber 32/36 on my L16, L20 and it was fine. I can imagine a 38 on a z24 just fine, especially if you spend a few dollars and get the correct jets for it...

[BRE_dAtSuN]

ill trade u that 38 for this 32/36 dgv... lol just an offer

[WAGON JON]

It will work fine. I have had a 38/38 on an L16-2.3, and it all works. Just have to jet it differently. The 38 isn't big enough for my 2.3-its built. But it gets better gas milage than the dual 45's!!

[a_barth]

That carb will work fine. It is a little big but you will still get decent mileage if you can keep your foot out of it. I had one on my '85 720 KC 4x4 after high school with nothing more than a pacesetter header to help it breathe and it ran great. The same carb is now on my '83 Toyota 4x4 and it has a slight vacuum leak that I have been chasing forever but still runs OK.

[Sealik]

Usually.... if you buy the kit/carb specifically for the Z24, it will be jetted accordingly.

 

There are exceptions though....like over 3500 ft elevation...etc