OpelWagenGT Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 so I am planning on dropping my '72 1200 soon. I have already figured out how I am going to do the front but I'm waffling over how to lower the back as I read more articles. I have read about spring eye repositioning, flipping, lowering blocks, and other methods. I am just wondering what would be the best for my situation. Also most of the articles about flipping that that sort of thing are hard to grasp without helpfull pictures. so my situation is that I am lowering my car strickly for looks I am not tracking it nor do I ever plan to I would like to be able to do most of the work myself I cannont weld but I'm already paying someone to do the front so I'm attempting to make the rear as simple as possible any and all feedback helps thanks, -Aron Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have done both methods. On my 1200 I used 2" blocks and new longer U-bolts. Be aware that when using blocks you get additional lateral movement. In my case the tires would rub if I hit a bump while cornering hard. I added a panhard bar and solved the problem. The plus side is that the shock mounts stay in the same place so shorter shocks aren't necessary. My car has never seen track duty either but it corners ok. On my brother's (BACKWOODS DAVE)521 I bought 2 new spring center bolts. When you remove the original one expect it to be rusty and break. You can shuffle the order of the springs and even flip them upside-down. It's pretty much a trial and error operation so leave the bolt long until you get it just right, then cut it off. I did one side first (took 3 or 4 tries) to get the combination right. Then I did the other side to match. We got a 5 inch drop and it rides smoother than stock. The big plus for this method is that it is infinitely adjustable and there isn't the lateral movement issue. It's a little cheaper too but more time consuming. If you go really low you may need shorter shocks. Sorry, I didn't take pics of the actual procedure. Hope my description is clear enough. Quote Link to comment
OpelWagenGT Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Nice! thanks i think the most helpful tip of yours is that the spring leaf changing is trial and error. It was confusing looking at everyones method when they are all different. thanks Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Go with spring blocks, simple and effective. Only Aussies talk about re-springing eyelets and so forth because they have restrictive laws -- most things are illegal there. The stock 1200 rear suspension has lateral movement. It is not problem unless you have tires that come out a lot further than stock. Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 It is not problem unless you have tires that come out a lot further than stock. ...or ample flairing :lol: . Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Go with spring blocks, simple and effective. Only Aussies talk about re-springing eyelets and so forth because they have restrictive laws -- most things are illegal there. The stock 1200 rear suspension has lateral movement. It is not problem unless you have tires that come out a lot further than stock. ya thats my problem right now with my truck I slammed it and now I cant fit my backup rims and snow tires so i have to lift it again Quote Link to comment
OpelWagenGT Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Go with spring blocks, simple and effective. Only Aussies talk about re-springing eyelets and so forth because they have restrictive laws -- most things are illegal there. The stock 1200 rear suspension has lateral movement. It is not problem unless you have tires that come out a lot further than stock. nice lowering blocks it is then! Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Definitely the easiest and quickest to put back to stock. Hang onto your stock U-bolts just in case. Post it up when you're done. Quote Link to comment
OpelWagenGT Posted January 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Definitely the easiest and quickest to put back to stock. Hang onto your stock U-bolts just in case. Post it up when you're done. so to update I took my car to the muffler shop to have the guy fix my exhaust since the welds tore right after the headers. I'm not surprised considering they didn't look like good welds in the first place, and the car is so old. It turned out that they broke at the collector so I needed to buy a new manifold. I ended up buying these headers and am going to re-do the whole exhaust with the megan racing muffler below and maybe a resenator. So lowering my car is getting put off since I have to putt all my money into that now. Isn't it crazy how these things happen at the perfect time. Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 That looks like the header I got off ebay. Old Thunderbird brand? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 That glass pack will be incredibly loud. I had a similar setup, and then added a large turbo muffler in between. So now it is just loud. Quote Link to comment
OpelWagenGT Posted January 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 That glass pack will be incredibly loud. I had a similar setup, and then added a large turbo muffler in between. So now it is just loud. yes I realize the amount of noise that muffler will put out. :) that is why I plan on putting something before it I'm just not sure what I'm going to use yet. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Anyone use the 3" blocks? back of a 2door sedan with 13" 185/60/13 Cut the fronts in conjunction with collars? Want alittle stiffer and much lower, Seattle, Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I think the 1200 axle is alot thinner than say a 510wagon 521 and the U bolts are perfect for those. Not to sure about the 1200. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 That's correct. 1200 axle tubes are smaller diameter than H190 axle tubes. Anyone use the 3" blocks? back of a 2door sedan with 13" 185/60/13Only on a silver coupe, never with stock colors or on away games. 185/60R13 is no problem if your offset is +20 to +30 (doesn't fit the outside fender). Blocks are the most common way to do it. Cut the fronts in conjunction with collars? Want alittle stiffer and much lowerCutting the front springs won't make them any stiffer -- 1200 uses linear rate springs unlike some other cars. I seem to recall that 280ZX rear springs will fit and are a little bit stiffer. Nismo recommended 110 lb/in, while stock 1200 springs were 96 lb/in. For great handling use a larger anti-sway bar instead of stiff springs and little roll bar. Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Went for the 2" blocks and collars for the front. Next weekend I will be hopefully get to install, cant wait for it to look proper. wish I had some impact wrenches, the parts look a bit rusty, spraying them today! Hate to cut the stock springs but until I locate some 280 springs (hint) I may do so. Front struts are shot any inexpensive options? 200$ Konis arent in the cards. Lots of confusing info in Wiki. Quote Link to comment
hurricane14 Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 any update? ever get it done? curious, as we have the rear out of our 72 coupe and looking to drop since we have have it all out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 hurricane14, how did your lowering turn out? Nearly everyone goes with lowering blocks, how do you like it? Front struts are shot any inexpensive options? They don't often wear out. Do you mean the strut shock absorber or insert cartridge? wiki seems pretty straightforward: Strut Insert Cartridges* Nissan 56105-H5025 about $50 each from Nissan, for Datsun B110 Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Don't like using lowering blocks, but want to lower the rear end of Smurf down 2". Removed and cut the center spring from a spare set of rear 1200 springs, and moving the cut leaf upside down on top of the main spring. Took a couple of tries cutting the leaf but 4" removed from the front and 6" from back half gave me 2.125" drop, used the same through bolt, will use same u-bolts-same number of leaves, and install polyurethrane bushing after some rust removal and paint 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Yes, that's the "flipped leaf" method, although cutting it to various length give variable amount of lowering. Quote Link to comment
hurricane14 Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 i didn't find a lowering "kit" per say, so i rounded up the longer u bolts but still need to go get the blocks. kind of pushed it to the back of the line as we would want to do the front at the same time. but we did finally get everything done on the rear with morrisun's steel bushing kit, new rear rubbers, shocks, and axle bearings. only thing not done was the large front eye bushings, probably have to go poly on those......but we got it back on the road and need to work on the carb and get it weather-tite. also got sidetracked due to picking up a 75 b210 from a friend (grandfather was original owner and garaged kept) so been bouncing around. way over due for a build thread i know........ Quote Link to comment
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