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EFI for your Datsun


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I have a complete and working 200SX EFI system that will fit just about any 4 cylinder. Google "200SX efi" for more info. This is the system, the one with O2 sensor. Complete, uncut, and ready to roll.

 

This bolts to the Z20 head. The one with two spark plugs from 510's, some pickups, and 200sx around '80. Will run just about any 4 cylinder but will require mods to bolt to anything but Z20.

 

$175 Hillsboro, OR

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Well then the price is $250!

 

Just kidding. I was going to EFI my A-series, but then decided to break the "keep it Nissan" mantra and go with a Suzuki G13B instead.

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As far as I know the G10T was not sold in the US.

 

Forged pistons, forged crank, 8500rpm redline, and rock solid dependability is why i chose the G13B over the G10T. That and i found a nice solid one for a good price with harness and ECU when I had money to snag it.

 

One of the dreamer projects for the future is a Datsun 1000 with a G10T. Mm... zippy.

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This bolts to the Z20 head. The one with two spark plugs from 510's, some pickups, and 200sx around '80. Will run just about any 4 cylinder but will require mods to bolt to anything but Z20.

 

$175 Hillsboro, OR

 

Only the '84 through '86 720 truck had the Z20 as a mileage option motor. The '80 and '81 200sx had the Z20 also but the EFI will bolt to the Z22 head as well. It's my belief (and hope) it will successfully work on the Z24 motor too. The bolt pattern is the same but the port shape is different. I am building an EFI Z24 and have two 200sx EFI set up to work with.

 

Compared to to-day's EFI this system is ... primitive. Which means it's less complicated, less to go wrong, easier to understand and fix. All you need is 4 cylinders and a distributor, good to go.

 

For any other motor than a Z series you will have to make a manifold. I've seen a 280Z intake cut and t.i.g. welded to make an L 20b EFI manifold, very kool!

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It is not nearly as sophisticated as modern wide-band EFI systems, but every bit as advanced as most EFI systems of the 80's. It uses an O2 sensor.. which only the '82 version of the 200sx used (as far as I understand). With the o2 sensor the system is a closed loop and should deliver the proper mixture over time with a relatively small margin of error. Adjustments for humidity and altitude are automatic because the computer is constantly sampling the exhaust for oxygen content meaning that it can tell if its rich or lean and compensate the pulse to get a closer mix. The earlier 200sx EFI systems (without o2) were just fuel maps based on air flow with the pulse timed via the hall sensor in the distributor and in fact were quite primitive. Again, this is as far as I understand.. after all I did not design the things. :)

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That about sums it up. The two I have are Canadian '81 (Z20) models w/o O2 sensor. I've always wondered if you installed the O2, if the computer would accept the input. BTW, the Canadian Z20s only had one plug per cylinder....... well???

 

This makes it a four plug distributor, not an eight...... nothing yet ???

 

Because the Z20 is basically an L20B with a NAPS head, it will have.... an L20B compatible EI dizzy also!! Got them both too.

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so his includes EVERYTHING right? manifold, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, ALL wiring, computer, o2, Fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator?

 

Yep, everything you listed.. everything everything. Even the funny little idle solenoid thing. Intake plumbing, air box, every damn thing. Only thing it does not have is the O2 sensor itself for two reasons. 1: It was rusted into the manifold and I could not get it out, and 2: the system should be installed with a new sensor anyway.

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so his includes EVERYTHING right? manifold, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, ALL wiring, computer, o2, Fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator?

 

I'm considering

 

Just remember that Z manifold won't bolt up to your L head, so think about that... Unless you're just gonna run a Z motor :)

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Get a Z22 or better a Z24. Keep the Z head because....

 

1/It is cross flow design. Exhaust and turbo on driver's side and EFI on pass side... lots of room. It also lends itself to an inter-cooler with the separated intake/exhaust systems. Forced induction will overcome much of the Z head's poor breathing.

 

2/It's very close to a HEMI design cylinder head, very efficient.

 

3/It has dual plugs per cylinder which shortens the burn time allowing less advance.

 

On the con side the Z isn't, and was, never designed to rev very high. It won't blow up, but, it has longer (and heavier) valves than the L series. Springs are supposed to be weaker, but from my measurements, are identical to the L series. For an under 7,000 RPM 2.4 liter Turbo powered torque motor I'd go with the Z24 truck motor. (but I'm biased)

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Well then the price is $250!

 

Just kidding. I was going to EFI my A-series, but then decided to break the "keep it Nissan" mantra and go with a Suzuki G13B instead.

 

WE NEED a project thread :D

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