New user, new Datsun...

[Cruzn620]

yeah, i see your point, i am a tinkerer too. i am thinking about buying a kawasaki ninja 250r just to see how much power i can make out of that tiny parrallel twin. if you are wanting to drag your truck...there is a lot involved with that. i know beebani has a beautiful bag set up on here, and i have built a few bagged trucks. you are going to at least looking a link set up in the back, notching your frame for axle clearance and then the set up of your compressor(s) and air tank. then you have your valves, controls and optional...gauges. it is very simple wiring, but it is additional wiring also. just something to think about!

[73super]

 

The other thing I wouldn't mind doing is getting a diesel engine... I think some of the trucks in the early 80's had them, and some older BMW's even had turbocharged ones. I think a small, turbocharged performance diesel would be interesting...

 

Have you checked the price of diesel lately.. sheeessshhh.. why the hey is it MORE than gas? Doesn't make any sense. :eek:

[72 327]

Edit: Actually... apparently the 2004 Yamaha FJR 1300 has a 1298cc in-line four engine with a 5-speed (I think) transmission and a shaft-driven rear wheel... the whole thing puts out about 140 hp at 8,000 rpm and 100 ft.lbs of torque at 7,000 rpm... I know the J13 puts out 67 hp at 5,700 rpm... not sure about the torque. Does anyone know what issues could arise from using a motorcycle engine in a truck? Only obvious problem I can see would be the engine speeds... but as far as I know my 521 has a 4.88 final drive ratio, so as far as the wheels go it should be similar to running lower rpms with a lower gear ratio, correct? Any major flaws in my thinking here?

 

Weight of the vehicle. Motorcycle trannys are not meant to move more than the bike and the rider. So like all up about 1000 lbs.

[datzenmike]

I'll be looking at some $300+, not to mention getting a vacuum pump... I don't trust the carb to provide a steady, uninterrupted vacuum, and it'd be nice to have an electrical pump to provide boost when the engine's off...

 

.. is there any way to reduce the amount of electronics in an engine, maybe with an FI to carb swap?

 

...

 

You won't need a vacuum pump. Millions of cars rely on engine vacuum for power assist brakes, and they have been doing this for decades. The booster has a one way valve to store vacuum so if the engine stalls at a light, you could still use it once or twice before all the vacuum is gone.

 

EFI beats carb any day! Better cold starts, cleaner plugs, economy, performance, drivability.

[kiznook]

I say L20b with an automagic. You should be able to get 25-30 from a carbbed 2 liter. throw a weber and EI on there, should be a good little setup.

 

I wouldn't try to do hand control throttle if you are used to driving a normal automatic car, maybe if you'd never driven, but to learn something new like that JUST to get a manual.... I don't think so

[pope_face]

Yeah, it's looking more and more like I'll have to just switch over to a different series and get an automatic... I'm assuming the L-series is the most direct replacement, correct? Would I have to get a custom driveshaft made up in order to use my stock differential with the L-series auto trans? Or is there a complete engine/auto transmission/driveline/differential setup that would pretty much be a direct bolt-on? Would I run into any clearance issues with the current steering setup, or is there a different front end setup that I could switch to that would provide better handling, possibly with disk brakes, that wouldn't be too hard on the wallet? I guess what I need to find now is a 1970 or later carburated, four-cylinder engine with as little electronics and smog equipment as possible, that was designed to take an automatic transmission and would bolt into the L521 with little or no modifications, and has some power and potential without being being too expensive... and after saying all that, I'm thinking L-series. Any suggestions?

 

Tyler: I'd love to get airbags, but after considering all that, plus the cost of replacing the engine and transmission, I think I may just have to leave that for a later date... much later.

 

73super: I don't know about down there, but up here diesel was just slightly below gas, last I checked... the thing is, apparently diesel engines burn slightly less fuel and have more power...

 

72 327: Yeah, I suppose if I'm willing to swap engines I may as well stick to something that'll work... unless, of course, I can trim the weight of the truck by some 1000+ lbs...

 

Datzen: I know I can use the vacuum from the carb, but it's just one of those things where I'd rather keep the clutch components separate from the rest of the engine... that way if I run into trouble later on it'll be easier to troubleshoot as well. Not really cost effective, but that sort of setup appeals to me more... As for EFI, I have nothing against it, I'd just rather have less electronics. Just not my thing... never was, and probably never will be. Like I said, I have EFI on my DD, and the thing drives me nuts with all the electronics and gadgets and whatnot...

 

Kiznook: I'm assuming EI is electronic ignition... what's the difference between it and standard ignition? Does it use a coil rather than a distributor?

[datzenmike]

The 520/521 had J13 and L16 engines but the mounts weren't in the same place on the frame, so any L series won't just drop in. For an L engine swap the J13 mounts will have to be cut off and new 'perches' made and welded on to the frame for the L mounts.

 

Any L series automatic will fit any L series motor.