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Common and UNcommon engine swaps


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VW 1.9 TDI would be boss for a datsun truck! maybe not so much for a 510- unless you want to pull a trailer, or be totally prepared for the zombie apocalypse.

 

Or win races......

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Oh, I agree 100%

 

The swap makes sense too, the stock se-r is peppy and fun to drive but I always thought it was a little bit lacking. Bolting the vq in is a nice solution. I hear there are even kits so it's a bolt in affair. Can't ask for more then that lol.

 

I just say the wrong wheel drive bit because of the cost. Spending that much for fwd is something I personally could never do.

Edited by 72240z
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  • 1 month later...

How about a G54B into a 620? I've heard people who don't know much about these motors hate on them but if they were so bad, why did 2 major automakers produce them from 1979 to 1993? You just have to know what combinations work just like the L series lineup. Stock they blow a L18, L20 away with TQ. When built they start producing real competitive numbers and they are uber reliable.

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VW 1.9 TDI would be boss for a datsun truck! maybe not so much for a 510- unless you want to pull a trailer, or be totally prepared for the zombie apocalypse.

 

 

Or win races......

 

Yep, the TDI is an awesome engine, with lots of potential, but is drive by wire, so lots of wiring to do to get the swap to work.

 

The Vanangon guys put them in westfalia campers and Syncros (4X4 Vanagons)

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How about a G54B into a 620? I've heard people who don't know much about these motors hate on them but if they were so bad, why did 2 major automakers produce them from 1979 to 1993? You just have to know what combinations work just like the L series lineup. Stock they blow a L18, L20 away with TQ. When built they start producing real competitive numbers and they are uber reliable.

 

IIRC, the G54B engines had a ballance shaft problem that left the block junk when the bearings went bad.

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How about a G54B into a 620? I've heard people who don't know much about these motors hate on them but if they were so bad, why did 2 major automakers produce them from 1979 to 1993? You just have to know what combinations work just like the L series lineup. Stock they blow a L18, L20 away with TQ. When built they start producing real competitive numbers and they are uber reliable.

 

I wouldn't waste time with a g54b in a datsun (now remember opinions are like ass hole we all have them so dont let my opinion discourage you) you can make as much power with a ka or a lz. now a g54b-t now you are talking!Ii have done some measuring and i am pretty sure it will fit in a dime . but i will neeed a R200 lsd. 235ft pounds of torque at 2500 rpms at 10 ponds of boost. there is no way my r160lsd could handle it for to long. And you know i would have to turn it up to 14 pounds. boost is addicting

 

dont know about uber reliable. but there is talk about stuffing a fresh g54b turbo into a 510. tranny tunnel being the major concern. monster torque figures would destroy any old rear end.

 

my g54b-t always gets me there phill and it has 160'000 on it how many 1980 turbo engines can do that . its just like any other engine do the preventative maintenance in it and it will last .

 

IIRC, the G54B engines had a ballance shaft problem that left the block junk when the bearings went bad.

 

only if you didnt do the balance shaft bearing's when you did the timning chain every 90000 miles like the manual says to do .

or you can do a balance shaft elimination. Thats what i did.

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A r200 is WAY over kill for 235tq. A 4 pinion r180 would take double that easily and its lighter. Even the 2 pinion will handle 235tq, like you said though boost is addictive 4 pinion is better idea.

 

Unless a dime is 2 wheeling it down the track there is no need for a r200.

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A r200 is WAY over kill for 235tq. A 4 pinion r180 would take double that easily and its lighter. Even the 2 pinion will handle 235tq, like you said though boost is addictive 4 pinion is better idea.

 

Unless a dime is 2 wheeling it down the track there is no need for a r200.

you dont know the jackassery that dislexics cars go through. r200 is not over kill for a g54b t. im pretty fucking shure he would break an r180 after a while of abuse. someone posted breaking an r180 lsd at the track with sticky tires.
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you dont know the jackassery that dislexics cars go through. r200 is not over kill for a g54b t. im pretty fucking shure he would break an r180 after a while of abuse. someone posted breaking an r180 lsd at the track with sticky tires.

 

On the street I ran a 4 spider LSD r180 with very sticky tires and it worked just fine, on the track with the same tires it broke a "hollow" stub axel at the splines. IMO with less than 300 fpt on the street an r180 should work fine esp. with a CV conversion. If any drag strip duty is done with even 250fpt it will break "hollow" stub axels on the r180 with sticky tires . The R200 is a very strong rear end with mine lasting for several hundred drag strip launches on slicks with a NISMO LSD and almost 500 fpt.

Edited by 510six
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I wouldn't waste time with a g54b in a datsun (now remember opinions are like ass hole we all have them so dont let my opinion discourage you) you can make as much power with a ka or a lz. now a g54b-t now you are talking!Ii have done some measuring and i am pretty sure it will fit in a dime . but i will neeed a R200 lsd. 235ft pounds of torque at 2500 rpms at 10 ponds of boost. there is no way my r160lsd could handle it for to long. And you know i would have to turn it up to 14 pounds. boost is addicting

 

 

 

my g54b-t always gets me there phill and it has 160'000 on it how many 1980 turbo engines can do that . its just like any other engine do the preventative maintenance in it and it will last .

 

 

 

only if you didnt do the balance shaft bearing's when you did the timning chain every 90000 miles like the manual says to do .

or you can do a balance shaft elimination. Thats what i did.

 

The 2.6 I have sitting on my stand is NA and would be a great motor in the 620 but it is already being installed in the D50 where it belongs. I have already measured and it would fit with the only modifications being to the engine and tranny mounts and a driveline - a given for just about any swap.

 

The 2.6's are super reliable. As mentioned, if you take care of your motor and do the preventative maintenance it will last. It doesn't matter if it is a TDI, a L20, G54B or a lawnmower.

 

The balance shafts a.k.a. silent shafts were a design that was engineered in Tokyo and adopted by Volvo, SAAB and Porsche in their early years - I will have to dig up that article. After 90+ K, it was part of the maintenance to replace the shaft bearings along with your chain and guides. If they seize, they prematurely wear your chain and guides and when that pops you have the potential of stuffing your valves. These are not considered interference motors but the quench area is very small and I have seen bent valves and broken pistons. When doing a serious teardown and rebuild, you always eliminate the shaft. It not only weighs 12 lbs, but you no longer have that parasitic drag on your chain. The one major caveat to this elimination is you must get your rotating assembly balanced. I had my crank polished and balanced along with my flywheel and front pulley. If you fail to do this and a lot of guys do, you are gonna shake, rattle and roll which = premature failure.

 

The heads in the early years were much stronger than in the mid 80's and on. They had no jet valves. The jet valves were introduced as an emission control solution to unburnt fuel during combustion. They would essentially re-mix the fuel and air (swirl effect) to get a complete burn. It was a good idea at the time but the engineers designed it poorly. They put steel sleeves in the aluminum head to seat the valves. Steel expands and contracts at a different temperature than aluminum and once you overheat, you can crack your head around these jet valves. They make ellimination kits for these as well but guys that take the N/A and T cars seriously get a Marnal M28 head. I have one of these. They are cast in spain with a thicker mold which = more material around the water jackets and valves and there are no jet valves. These cost $400 bare. You then take that head to your machinist and port/polish, 5 angle valve grind, new seals, CAM, blah blah. You can build it however you like. These heads are awesome!!!

 

G54B's crack heads due to overheating which is usually tied to a faulty cooling system, which can be PREVENTED with maintenance. The blocks on these motors are designed very well...I could go on and on...

 

Common knowledge is eliminating the balance shafts and jet valves or getting a new head. These are the two faults of this motor if not taken very good care of. These little 4 bangers run forever and can be built to perfromance levels very easily. I stayed N/A because I am fabbing a C2 Procharger kit designed for the 2005 + 300z's. It will blow through my 38 with some jetting changes. I have to build a custome braket for the unit but the rest is just piping and a new crank pulley. Say hello to a realistic 60-70 HP. Tell me that wouldn't be fun in a 2700 lb truck. The beauty of this sytem is it stays mechanical.

Edited by 79D50
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A r200 is WAY over kill for 235tq. A 4 pinion r180 would take double that easily and its lighter. Even the 2 pinion will handle 235tq, like you said though boost is addictive 4 pinion is better idea.

 

Unless a dime is 2 wheeling it down the track there is no need for a r200.

 

I say i need a r200 because i beat on my car that's what i built it for. As far as power levels. The stock turbo on a g54b-t is a 12a.

The 12a only flows 320 cfm at 15 pounds now at 10 pounds you are already at 235 ft pounds. Know here is where the r200 comes in . I had a super 16g on my red starion and it was fun! A starion with a super 16 g will put down around 300ft pounds of torque =). In the back of my head i would always be thinking Man i wonder what this would be like with a bigger turbo. Eventually I would talk my self in to putting a 16g 18g or 19c in my car . and the r180 would either die from launching or clutch kicking.

 

On the street I ran a 4 spider LSD r180 with very sticky tires and it worked just fine, on the track with the same tires it broke a "hollow" stub axel at the splines. IMO with less than 300 fpt on the street an r180 should work fine esp. with a CV conversion. If any drag strip duty is done with even 250fpt it will break "hollow" stub axels on the r180 with sticky tires . The R200 is a very strong rear end with mine lasting for several hundred drag strip launches on slicks with a NISMO LSD and almost 500 fpt.

 

thats good to know

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The awd drive train for the 510 is here.

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?12676-its-finally-here!%28awd-sr20det-content-inside%29&highlight=awd+510

Here is the build thread.

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?1780-barely-a-510&highlight=Pulsar%20GTir

It's LAYEDOUTB2K's build.

 

You could launch and clutch kick a 4 pinion r180 lsd a 1000 times with the stickiest tires and not have any damage to the diff itself. With an open anything (even an r200) the spider gears will go to hell long before anything else when abused like that. With an r180 4 pinion lsd the weak point becomes the universal axles or hollow tube cvs that are what would be run.

It doesn't matter who drives the car in what condition a r200 at that power level is a heavy pile of over kill. 1st hand experience.....

Edited by 72240z
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