Z22

[J.C_620]

will a Z22 complete minus oil pan that been sitting outside on concrete for two years and a 5 speed tranismission out of an 80 510 with L20B be worth $65 plus time and fuel to go pick up to build a LZ22?

[steve g]

Z22 blocks are getting hard to come by, they are not as prone to head gasket failure like the z24 and has almost the same torque and horsepower. They also have a good bore and stroke for very nice RPMs. I say go for it.

[izzo]

i say go for it also

 

easier to throw an L head on those too i hear. not as many mods or something?

[datzenmike]

If the '80 5spd is a dogleg you should 'save' that for sure.

[jovial_cynic]

Yes, worth it. Absolutely worth it. $65 is basically free when it comes to engines that you're going to end up rebuilding anyway. If the Z22 has been sitting for a while without the oil pan, there might be some rust inside, so it might be a good time to hunt for some oversize pistons and have the block bored out. That's what I did. I found some inexpensive pistons that were oversized .75mm and had the engine bored out to match.

 

That's a very good deal if you really plan to work on the engine. However, if it's just going to sit on your property and rot, you may want to make it available for someone who can make use out of it.

[J.C_620]

well i got it. my wife and i drove 200 miles round trip to pick up this z22 and 5 speed gearbox today and while i was there i also picked up a w58 closed chambered head total $105 not counting the cost of fuel and time it took to drive and the feed and drinks we eat along the way. the good well not much,the block appears to be buildable lost of rust in the cylinders from what i can see from the bottom the crank same thing rusty. the frive speed i can only get into 1st and 2nd gear but cant turn it by hand except in netural so a rebuild is in order for that also. the head it appears to be useable but will need a rebuild also beings it has rusty valves but the cam and rockers are very clean it may need cam tower shims cause it looks like it has been milled a-lot the casting numbers are almost gone. wil post pics when i get them all uploaded

[J.C_620]

picture time but beware these may make ya cringe being they are so dang rusty

 

[DISLEXICDIME]

have fun pulling the exhaust liners out of that w58 :eek: you can port the round ports in to square ports my buddy did it. the head flows nice !

[J.C_620]

have fun pulling the exhaust liners out of that w58 :eek: you can port the round ports in to square ports my buddy did it. the head flows nice !

 

i dont think i am going to use this head i probably try to sell it beings i have a good A87 closed chambered that has been ported and polished and flowed pretty well that already has a good aftermarket cam that come off my old L20B that i blew the rings out

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

L 5spd. likely 620 or early 280z.

[hang_510]

well i got it.

 

:thumbup:

 

cant see pix, but it sounds like a day at the machinist would take care of it.

[J.C_620]

got around to tearing the Z22 apart today after putting a new windshield and seal into my beater. it was rusted together so it took lots of crc and persuasion to get the pistons out. the crank looks like it will be alright just needs a light polish. the bores look like it wil have to be bored to the max (80) i hope not. my question is should i use the Z22 crank and rods or use a L20B crank and rods? the L20B pistons are easier to find in oversizes and cheaper also. i was going to use a U67 head withe the Z22 internals to keep compression down so i can run pump fuel but thinking that if i use L20B internals i would need to run a closed chambered head. any suggestions?

[jovial_cynic]

I threw the L20b crank into my z22 block thinking it'd be "better", but it turns out that the value of the L20b over the Z22 crank is almost non-existant if you're building a street car. Yes, the L20b crank is fully counterweighted, but unless you plan to run your engine upwards of 7000+ rpms on a regular basis, you're not going to notice the difference. Instead, you're going to lose displacement, because the 92mm stroke of the Z22 will simply give you more starting HP than the 86mm stroke of the L20b.

 

My next engine build will include the Z22 block and crank, block bored out to 89mm with the use of KA24 pistons.

Edited November 8, 2009 by jovial_cynic

[J.C_620]

so if i use the KA24 89mm pistons and the Z22 crank what rods will need to be used in this combination? what would be the "ideal" head to use? keep in mind this is just going to be a weekend driver and i also have a set of dellorto drla 40's i am planning on useing on this build but i do wanna make good power

[jovial_cynic]

This is what I have so far:

 

Given the following:

 

The Z22S block is better for boring.

Stock Z22S has the pistons 0.05mm below deck.

KA24 pistons put me 1.55 below deck.

This would give me a 2.28L motor.

 

Compression Ratio numbers:

 

head options:              A87-close | A87-open | KA24
----------------------------------------------------------
Stock Z22S rods:  -1.55mm   10.37    |  09.79   | 08.14
Stock Z22E rods:* +0.05mm   12.80    |  11.90   | 09.50

 

* Assume shaved pistons on Z22E rods, and close to 0 dish after shaving

 

Obviously, anything above 10:1 is going to cause trouble, particularly if you don't have a good quenching head or a long duration cam. Additionally, I've learned that you are dangerous territory even in the 9:1 CR if your quenching area is more than 1.2mm or so (1.2mm below deck). There's a bit of studying to do before going forward, but I'm currently investigating this route.

Edited November 8, 2009 by jovial_cynic

[J.C_620]

done a little bit of cleaning on the block today and its coming cleaner but not as clean as it will be after its trip to the machine shop.

 

i am unsure of what block i have Z22S or Z22E.i have tried to find the difference between the two blocks and all i have come up with besides rod length and piston differences is that the S has simesied cylinders and small coolant passages running across the top. i am assuming that i have the S block and i am hopeing that i do.rumors say that the S can handle a larger overbore than the E and will not have overheating issues.

the block apears to have the cylinders cast together looking through the expansion plug holes. i can see small coolant ports running inbetween the cylinders.

there is some rather large rust pitting in the top of #3. i did take my hone to all 4 bores to knock the rust off to asess the rust damage and all appears well except for the top of #3 is thes block going to be salvageable or should i scrap it before spending money on it to find out later that its too far gone?

 

in this pic you can see the rust pits in #3 cylinder

in this pic you can see the small coolant passages in the top of the block if ya look close (sorry for the bad pic)

[datzenmike]

I had a block like this. The cylinders are Siamesed together. That small hole forces coolant past the hottest part of the cylinder, the top 1/2".

 

That is some major pitting. I doubt if the rings are going to seal that too well.

[J.C_620]

i am hopeing that i can have it bored out enough to do away with that pitting without going to far i am gunna leave it up to the machinist but maybe the rings will not come up that far:(

[J.C_620]

i found a set of ka24 pistons out behind the shop friday so i tossed em in the bed of the ol datsunstein monster. called the lady at the machine shop and she said she would hot tank the block clean up the pistons and press them onto my rods and fit em into the block for $110 that is if i decide to go ahead and bore the block to the max just worried that if it breaks a ring the block will then be complete junk and z22 are hard to find around here

[Braden]

I had a block like this. The cylinders are Siamesed together. That small hole forces coolant past the hottest part of the cylinder, the top 1/2".

 

That is some major pitting. I doubt if the rings are going to seal that too well.

 

RESLEEVE it, that rids the pits and adds your cylinder wall back.

[Braden]

before you sleeve it tape off all the mating surfaces and sandblast that bitch (yes even in the water jacket!!!!!!) after blasting the block will be clean and ready for the machinist, they can then sleeve it then deck the head!!!!! presto brand new z22!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! clean that sucker up after the machine shop work and paint it with some good por15 engine enamel!!!

[KPGC10]

Z22 block, L20B crank, Z24 6" rod, VG30DE (Quest) piston, and a U67 head makes a stout combination that you can rev the piss out of and will still fit under the hood of a 510 or 521 p/u. I've done a few, both with dual SU's and PHH/DCOE's.

[benzo]

Z22 block, L20B crank, Z24 6" rod, VG30DE (Quest) piston, and a U67 head makes a stout combination that you can rev the piss out of and will still fit under the hood of a 510 or 521 p/u. I've done a few, both with dual SU's and PHH/DCOE's.

 

did you use Z SU's or the 38mm su's? I would figure Z su's.

[datzenmike]

Z22 block, L20B crank, Z24 6" rod, VG30DE (Quest) piston, and a U67 head makes a stout combination that you can rev the piss out of and will still fit under the hood of a 510 or 521 p/u. I've done a few, both with dual SU's and PHH/DCOE's.

 

Z24 rods are 6.5" the Z20E had 6" rods.

[KPGC10]

Z24 rods are 6.5" the Z20E had 6" rods.

 

Sorry...brainfart. ;)

 

been a loooooooooong day