Project: '69 521 Z20ET

[kaliboy96]

I was also thinking of running the 280cc injectors from an early 280z they bolt right in i think.

[510six]

The L28et fuel injectors are 259cc injectors vs. the stock N/A 160cc injectors. The AFM will still need to be adjusted to run the larger injectors but it`s a quick / fairly easy way to be able to safely run a few lbs. of boost. Tuning the AFM adjustment with a WB02 , will yield the best results and indicate how much boost can safety be run with the larger injectors and the stock AFM.

 

I agree that the most accurate method of tuning is with a standalone ECU and reading dataloggs in conjunction with dyno tuning.

Edited December 21, 2009 by 510six

[Drahzzel]

When you get the megasquirt, it may be best to do away with the VAF and go with a MAF if you can find a curve file for one. The standard O2 sensor only works off of 0-1V while an WO2 works off 0-5V and you may need to set a proper threshold for your sensor. If you plan to keep the current VAF, you'll need to either find a copy of the air flow and resistance properties curve or do a lot of datalogging with trial and error tuning to get it close. I believe when most people switch to a standalone they use a mustang cobra MAF if i'm not mistaken so you should be able to find the curve readily for that.

[kaliboy96]

Wait a minute I thought going standalone meant no MAF. Am I wrong? and what is a VAF? what year MAF for the mustang so I can price one? As much as I love this stuff it can get a little overwhelming I am reading more than I ever did in High School lol!

[Farmer Joe]

a VAF is a Vane Air Flow sensor. that big ol' boxy deal before the turbo has a flapper deal in it that moves open the more air that passes by. if im not mistaken this is what controls the injector timing and i think the electronic timing advance in the stock distributor.

 

if you go stand alone management, then your gonna need a Mass Air Flow sensor. this measures the speed of the air entering and is alot more accurate at providing a good fuel mixture. ive seen alot of MS setup that had the said mustang, or just ford, MAF.

[kaliboy96]

What about the Z32 MAF is that not compatible? Is the MAF the 80mm one what size do I use? Farmer Joe can you give me the measurements width and height of your front turn signals I want to use 620 Turn signals in the front!

Edited December 22, 2009 by kaliboy96

[Farmer Joe]

What about the Z32 MAF is that not compatible? Is the MAF the 80mm one what size do I use? Farmer Joe can you give me the measurements width and height of your front turn signals I want to use 620 Turn signals in the front!

 

the measurements im not quite sure of. i dont have my tape measure at the house here.

 

now if i were to do a guestiment, id say the top edge is prolly about 8in, the bottom edge is prolly about 6in and theyre like 3in tall.

[MicroMachinery]

I think it would do you a world of wonders to learn/research about this stuff on your own, so you don't have to be spoon-fed every step of the way. I only tell you this because it's the response I've gotten from half a dozen other forums I've gone to trying to learn what I should do about my turbo KA that I'm building for my 510.

Multiple people told me to pick up a copy of the book, "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. I went right out and got a copy off Amazon, and I'm in the middle of reading it. Dude, it's complicated stuff, and EXTREMELY dangerous to just try and fumble your way through it. Just your little drive down the street could have easily been curtains for that engine, and frankly, I'm surprised. There are ALOT of dynamics to turbocharging an engine, and I suggest you learn all you can about it before just trying to "feel" your way through it. There's alot of stuff going on, and without the knowledge that is required, it's not IF, but WHEN will you destroy your engine. If you want this setup to be turn key, take it to a specialist, give him the key, and come back in 4 weeks with a couple thousand dollars. Turbocharging, especially a custom setup like yours, is NEVER going to be "turn-key".

Good luck, I'm enjoying this thread, and I'm excited to see when you have your 521 dialed in.:thumbup:

Edited December 22, 2009 by MicroMachinery

[510six]

With megasquirt you have the option of using both a MAF and a MAP sensor, as the megasquirt board has an onboard MAP sensor there is really no need to run a MAF sensor unless you absolutly want to. The current AEM EMS in my car doesn't use a MAF it uses a MAP sensor and the system works just fine.

 

Some info on MAF/MAP blend

http://www.microsquirt.info/mafmap.htm

 

The standard MAP megasquirt system.

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

[510six]

[]

 

I agree, there are many dynamics at work when tuning a forced induction motor. When I first looked at this thread, I thought "cool, someone has gotten a ECU from a JDM Z18et and put it in a 521 truck" . But, when I realized that the ECU is probably from a early 80's 200sx " Danger Will Robinson" went off in my head as the 200sx ecu was never setup with forced induction in mind.

 

About 20 years ago I had a friend who put a stock turbo off of a L28et and used a 75 280z N/A ECU to run 5-6 psi of boost on a L28e motor. This was done by firing the cold start injector at 2psi with a Hobbs switch using Diode logic , so the car still start when it was cold. He locked out the timing on a 82 280zx distributor and the car ran for couple years before He upgraded to z31 ECU and a true L28et motor. I figured that once the Megasquirt kit was bought, the learning curve really begins , as explaining how to tune a forced induction motor isn't something that can really be done in the limited space of a thread.

[Drahzzel]

In reality it does not really matter what MAF you will be using as long as it is sized to your injectors and head flow. Either way, you may need to find a way to get the specs for Air flow voltage on the MAF you will be using as you will need these values to set the sensor properly within your standalone unit. If you cannot find the specs you will need a way to power the MAF properly while on a flowbench to see how much air will flow and the given voltage produced at various points. These flow/voltage points will determine how detailed your tune will be. By the way, you're not using stock pistons on this motor, are you? I know the stock Z20E pistons are dished (although I've heard some are flat-top) but I have yet to find if they are cast, forged, or hyperuetectic.

 

I'm looking forward to how this turns out as it's something I have wanted to do with my 200SX. :D

[kaliboy96]

I have been doing quite a bit of reading to learn what I know is a thick book of knowledge, The links that you guys provide have been very helpful and point me in the right direction so I can get everything I need! I do appreciate all of your help and comments I would really be lost without it! I am happy with just idling for now so I will leave it be til the upgrades can be installed first is the wideband 02 going with the LC1! That should help a little!

[MicroMachinery]

Hear hear! Good show!

[510six]

+1

 

It is not worth blowing a motor up.

 

I would also read this.

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/product-reviews/0837601606/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

 

This was/is still a great reference book. I would suggest it as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Turbochargers-HP49-Books-Spark-Ignition-Applications/product-reviews/0895861356/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

[kaliboy96]

Hey off hand does anyone know if a L20B crank pulley will fit the Z20E I came across this part and if it fits it looks like it might provide an easier mounting option for the 36-1 trigger wheel? If it does fit will it have any adverse affects on performance its a little smaller than the one I have on now!

 

 

http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=182

[510six]

The pully in the link is to small in diameter for a street car application. I had the same problem with previous NISMO dampners and even the current ATI dampner . You want a pully on the crank that is at least 4.5" in diameter to keep the alternator charged at idle, this is esp. true for a fuel injected application.

 

If you would like I can talk to the same machinist that mounted my 36-1 wheel .

[kaliboy96]

Yeah that would be great as I think this will probably be the next hurdle that I need to clear as far as ignition. Let me know and I could ship you my crank pulley and the trigger wheel together with some $

[kaliboy96]

Aiight the Innovative Wideband arrived today! I am so excited! Question is this, there is a stock O2 bung about 4 inches after the turbo in the down pipe if you look on the pics you can see it! How far in the exhaust system should the sensor be? Is this bung too close?

 

 

[sycloned916]

Aiight the Innovative Wideband arrived today! I am so excited! Question is this, there is a stock O2 bung about 4 inches after the turbo in the down pipe if you look on the pics you can see it! How far in the exhaust system should the sensor be? Is this bung too close?

 

 

 

 

I have the AEM wideband on mine,the instructions say to mount the sensor on a turbo motor about 36in away from the housing. I have mine about 32in down stream and works fine. Too close can cook the sensor and read all over the place seen it happen to a lot of them. If your not sure call Innovative and ask that's what I did.

[fo0manchu]

also make sure you don't mount the wideband on any bends. Mounted after a long straight pipe would be ideal, but not to far down the exhaust stream.

[Charlie69]

A little late with this post but I put a carberated Z20 with 8 plug head in my 70 521 with a Z 5 speed and just loved it. I put a Weber and new 2.5" exhaust and this little motor came alive. I loved passing people on hills with that little truck. Motor had 237,000 hard miles on it when I totaled the truck. After getting the Weber dialed in I was pulling a consistent 30+ miles per gallon out of it. I really feeal that without the 8 plug head I would not have gotten the 30+ miles to a gallon. Also been a while since I looked at these head but doesn't the 8 plug head have a hemispherical (Hemi) chamber?

[kaliboy96]

Hey guys I am selling some parts to make some $ for new parts! LOL!

 

1. REAR BUMPERETEES/ WITH MOUNTING BRACKETS! $135 FOR BOTH WITH SHIPPING

 

2. 2 X Z20E ECU $50 each with shipping!

 

3. Z20E ENGINE HARNESS WITH CONNECTIONS $40 with shipping

 

4. Heater/ Vent levers $10 Each with shipping!

 

5. Stock Ashtray for Dash $20 with shipping!

 

6. 3 x left headlight bezels (dont ask me how!) $15 each with shipping!

 

7. 1 x KA24E Alternator w/o pigtail but in perfect condition! It has the Serpentine Belt Pulley! $80 with shipping!

 

8. 1 x 510/520/620 Electronic Dizzy with Matchbox e12-80 this was bought brand new and I have not put even 2 miles on it! Asking $130 with Shipping!

 

 

I can include pics for any items just ask. The Bumperettes are pictured in the 4 sale section!

 

 

Hit me up or PM me!

 

619-865-8059

[kaliboy96]

Ripped out the Engine Harness and Stock MAF ( after I carefully labeled and photographed every connection! Just in case! ;) ) Engine bay looks so spacious. I was reading the installation of the KA24E 90 amp alternator installation, I purchase one of these but it has the wrong pulley, can anyone suggest a good donor for this so I can keep an install the one I have. I want to run a larger fuse box do I really need to replace the original harness, it looks pretty decent, can I just buy an ATO/ATC style box and wire it up using the original wires with new connections, and as far as grounding all of the gauges and ecu should I run it to the block or frame? HMMMMMMMMM :blink:

 

Last question for today... is there a better donor for the intake manifold and plenum on this block, I want to run a 60mm throttle body, but the plenum and throttle body of this intake are oval I have another intake but its about 53mm I dont think it can be bored to 60mm wandering if there is an easier solution than manufacturing my own. K that is it for today? ;)

[kaliboy96]

Hey guys I got a tip that my turbo seals might be blown hence the white smoke upon acceleration. I took apart my AIRESEARCH turbo this is what I found! I think it is a T28 its pretty small but it has a T3 flange the housing says AR 63

 

Compressor:

 

Inducer: 47.6 mm

Exducer: 60.3 mm

 

 

Turbine:

 

Inducer: 57.2 mm

Exducer: 44.5 mm

 

 

There was quite a bit of oil in the compressor housing? I dont think its suppose to be there correct?

 

 

There was oil in the Turbine side too as well as in the exhaust manifold and the down pipe! Not to mention the blades on the turbine were chipped!

 

 

 

 

I want to replace the turbo with a new unit. I did some reading on Garrett about Trim and Housing sizes. I saw these on ebay can someone tell me if one of these would work. I am not sure if I should stay close to original numbers or go larger! If you guys could look over these and give me an opinion that would be great!

 

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-T04E-Turbocharger-63-A-R-Turbo-CIVIC-New-Design_W0QQitemZ290389527086QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439c908a2e

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-60-1-AR70-BIG-SHAFT-63-TRIM-T3-FLANGE-TURBO-CHARGER_W0QQitemZ250561076378QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a569a9c9a

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-T04E-Hybrid-Stage-3-A-R-63-Turbo-Turbocharger_W0QQitemZ390140617340QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad631627c

 

 

Thanks look forward to your answers!

[fo0manchu]

i think i said this earlier, white smoke is water. If its white/bluish its oil. compressor housing shouldn't be that oily, but that can also be from blow by, depending on how your setup was setup. Ebay turbo's are pretty horrible from previous owners experiences. You'd be better off with a garrett or a holset. One thing people have done is by the cheap ebay turbo's and rebuilt them with garrett internals. If your turbo has a T3 flange, it is a T3 turbo. T28's have a smaller flange. I suggest you keep on reading some more articles on the web. Google up turbo's, ebay turbo's, T28, T3.... You should know the differences when building up your ride.