Street Dyno results for my dime

[jovial_cynic]

I'm making another circuit for a friend of mine who is just now starting to learn about cars and tuning. He's got an old beat up toyota truck that he just bought, and I'm going to show him what kind of difference simple things like a valve adjustment and a new O2 sensor makes.

[Braden]

just curious if any of you have taken a motor like this and slapped some 44mm mikunis on it, i have 2 l20s both with open chamber heads and i am going to use the mikuni set up and a cam profile much like the one in this motor in my motor, i was just wondering what hp/tq numbers am i aiming for, if i could get an increase of 60-75 hp over stock i would be satisfied

[datzenmike]

Getting 50% over stock is a formidable task and results in a race car and not a DD.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im thinking a with a true dyno about 100hp at the wheel

[69FJWagon]

Getting 50% over stock is a formidable task and results in a race car and not a DD.

 

I've commuted in Lisas car and have had no issues and its around 50 miles round trip and its no race car...:D

[jovial_cynic]

Im thinking a with a true dyno about 100hp at the wheel

 

Why? The only difference between a road dyno and a true dyno is that the known mass being moved is the rollers (in the true dyno) and the car itself (on the road dyno). I actually put my car on scales to get the weight with me in it. The road dyno also takes into account surface area of the front of the car (wind resistasnce) and road friction, which means that a true dyno might actually produce higher HP numbers.

 

I'll see if I can find any shops around here with a dyno and see what actually happens. I'll be willing to bet that the numbers are awfully close.

 

 

In other news, I just bought a datalogger (logomatic v2), a frequency-to-voltage chip, an accelerometer chip, in a matter of a couple of weeks, hope to have a system that'll log O2-sensor readings, water temp readings, g-force readings, a knock-sensor, all over RPMs. When I do these runs (or any kind of run), I'll be able to see precise fuel mix readings, what kind of noise my engine is making, what kind of forward G's my car is pulling (probably not very high, but fun regardless), etc., etc. Having all this data collected should allow me to get as much optimization from my engine as possible. Once I get all the parts in, I'll put together a project thread and see what happens.

 

The best part of it all is that it'll be portable. I'll be able to throw it onto any number of cars, as long as I can tap into signal sources. O2 sensors (on cars that have them; I installed one on mine even though I'm running carbs), water temp, knock sensor (really just a microphone and amplifier circuit), and a line from the coil, and I'm good to go. And I think it'd make sense to strap the accelerometer to my datalogger, since most cars don't have g-force meters built in.

Edited October 14, 2009 by jovial_cynic

[jovial_cynic]

 

I *thought* that I was at 20-initial/36-total, but apparently, I forgot that I set it back to 15/31 a while back. I turned it up to 20/36, and it looks like I woke the engine up a bit. Five degrees appears to have given me an additional four horses.

 

** truth be told, because I don't know if my test road is perfectly flat, I'm taking an average of my best run in BOTH directions. I got 115hp going in one direction and 111hp going in the other direction. 113hp may be a more honest number at this point. **

 

No noticable pinging on the upper end, but I'm building a knock-sensor circuit to let me know if anything bad is going on at the upper RPMs.

Edited October 15, 2009 by jovial_cynic

[benzo]

Nice. and it did not cost you a thing. just a turn of the dist. do you run 93 octane? If so I bet that is helping in terms of safety or keeping it from knocking

[jovial_cynic]

Yeah, running higher octane. We've got 92 here in Olympia, though. Seems to work just fine. I'm going to see about shortening the throw a bit more on the mechanical advance slots and see if less advance towards the top makes any positive difference.

[benzo]

I wish I had 92 or better in cali. we have what some tuners say is watered down 91 but it works ok for me. I just had to watch timing a bit. are you running a pertronix or a matchbox dizzy? I am using a single point with pertronix and I believe rebello recurved it and it works for me fine. if you can do a mod with out cost on the dist and see a improvement that would be great. I still feel a jump to a better sized carbs would be a help

[jovial_cynic]

Can't you just throw in a bottle of octane boost? Does that work?

 

Using a matchbox distributor that I recurved, and I'm currently on the lookout for larger carbs.

Edited October 15, 2009 by jovial_cynic

[banzai510(hainz)]

yeah you migh have that much HP. 113hp. Its still better than mine.

I was basing of datsuns.com what soewm people wrote in on there dyno pulls.

 

byron510 said he got 130hp@wheel or so with real low gear ratio with a LZ hybris he bolted together.(nothing special) but i think he had webers or Mikunis

[jovial_cynic]

Yeah - if I can get a better breather for my 510, I'm hoping to get similar numbers. According to the math, if I can reach 131hp (fingers crossed), that's 160hp at the crank. That'd be pretty impressive!

[datzenmike]

yeah you migh have that much HP. 113hp. Its still better than mine.

I was basing of datsuns.com what soewm people wrote in on there dyno pulls.

 

byron510 said he got 130hp@wheel or so with real low gear ratio with a LZ hybris he bolted together.(nothing special) but i think he had webers or Mikunis

 

I think carbs for that and about 140 rwhp with the new EFI setup. LZ22 motor and hotish cam.

[benzo]

I could use ocatane boost but that would get expensive for every fill up. I am making good power anyways. I am already making about 140 ish to 150 at the wheels the only thing I can do is maybe adjust jets to get maybe a bit more power and get better mileage and or change my rear diif since I have a wagon but the rear diff I don't think will increase hp may be just torque or where the torque curve/ band

[datzenmike]

Gear change won't add hp, it just appears that there's an increase. I think the rear axle ratio is added into the dyno results and cancels out. Same as temp, altitude and humidity.

[jovial_cynic]

Gear change won't add hp, it just appears that there's an increase. I think the rear axle ratio is added into the dyno results and cancels out. Same as temp, altitude and humidity.

 

Correct; the application asks for that data, so it factors all of that in.

[RoadRace]

I could use ocatane boost but that would get expensive for every fill up. I am making good power anyways. I am already making about 140 ish to 150 at the wheels the only thing I can do is maybe adjust jets to get maybe a bit more power and get better mileage and or change my rear diif since I have a wagon but the rear diff I don't think will increase hp may be just torque or where the torque curve/ band

 

just my opinion here, but it has been my experience that octane boost can be the kiss of death for your motor. too many inconsitencies in the product and mix ratio. you can tune for one day and the next time you add the product, the batch is bad, the base stock fule is different, the ammount of gas in the tank is off, you detonate and start damaging your motor. if you run the same pump gas all the time and the car starts to detonate or run funny, then you can add the booster to get you to the next tank, but never rely on the stuff.

[benzo]

agreed. that is why I don't use it. I never rely on the stuff. pretty much run what I brung.