can someone show me a picture of the headlight relay?

[inline4]

is it that weird distribution block looking thing on the right side of the engine bay?

[banzai510(hainz)]

its near the fuse box on the strut tower.

Ck the color codes. depending on year it could be a removeable relay or a relay with a small harness

[inline4]

whats that weird looking metal thing near the old ignition coil then?

[banzai510(hainz)]

how many wires is there.

By the ignition coil is only a ballast resisitor which is white ceramic. which you need if running points

 

unless somebody put a eleltronic ignition in?????? MSD ? Jacobs? Unilite? send photo.

 

could be the 2nd gear dual point set up,but that more on the radiator core support

Edited August 21, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[inline4]

how many wires is there.

By the ignition coil is only a ballast resisitor which is white ceramic. which you need if running points

 

unless somebody put a eleltronic ignition in?????? MSD ? Jacobs? Unilite? send photo.

 

could be the 2nd gear dual point set up,but that more on the radiator core support

let me go snap one. i'm running a ka now anyways. also, what about that yellow and green signex box?

[banzai510(hainz)]

KA??

would have been good to know.

[Cuts metal like mad]

welcome to ratsun... lol. Classic. :D

[inline4]

welcome to ratsun... lol. Classic. :D

 

yeah, I'm a noob :o

[inline4]

 

this thing.

[datsunaholic]

Well, that looks a heck of a lot like a early 70s headlight relay.

[inline4]

Well, that looks a heck of a lot like a early 70s headlight relay.

 

are these readily available at parts stores? my left headlight is dim and theyre new headlights.

[datsunaholic]

Generally it's not the relay that causes dim headlights, it's the wiring and connections. For the most part the relay either works or doesn't. I had constant headlight "flicker" and lo and behold it was the spade connectors to the relay had gotten weak and weren't making good contact. Cleaned 'em and "pinched" the wire ends to get a better hold, and the headlights are not only constant (no more flicker) but are brighter too.

 

Oh, and don't ignore the headlight grounds. Poor grounds make stuff just as dim as poor hot side wiring.

 

The fact that one headlight is dim tells me it's NOT the relay. It doesn't have separate circuits for right/left. It has separate circuits for high/low. I would almost guarantee the ground is "open" on the dim headlight, and it's grounding through the high-beam filament.

 

 

As for the "are they available in parts stores", no. They aren't a common relay. To replace generally means praying a Dealer has one or "adapting" to a more modern relay.

 

EDIT:

 

The Datsun relay doesn't work like a "normal" relay in that it doesn't have a direct connection to the battery or fusebox. So even though there's a headlight relay, full headlight current runs through the switch and all the headlight wiring. The ONLY thing the headlight relay does is avoids running full high-beam current through the Hi/Lo dimmer switch.

Edited August 21, 2009 by datsunaholic

[inline4]

 

EDIT:

 

The Datsun relay doesn't work like a "normal" relay in that it doesn't have a direct connection to the battery or fusebox. So even though there's a headlight relay, full headlight current runs through the switch and all the headlight wiring. The ONLY thing the headlight relay does is avoids running full high-beam current through the Hi/Lo dimmer switch.

 

hahah, so the broken hi beam that I have is causing a weak ground? I didnt want to buy one cause I dont generally use the highbeam :o

[datsunaholic]

No, the weak ground would be wherever the ground to the dim light is. The regular beam headlights have both a high beam and a low beam filament, and a common ground (hence the 3 prongs). The high beam bulb just has 2 prongs- high beam and ground. So if the ground for the regular light gets disconnected, the current ends up going through both the low beam flilament AND the high beam filament, effectively cutting the current in half. Well, not QUITE, because the current has to find a ground somewhere, and the next best place is to then go through the high-beam filaments of the remaining 3 bulbs (if they have good grounds).

 

What happens in the voltage that should be going through one filament, now goes through 5 filaments- 2 in direct series, in series with 3 others in parrallel with each other. OK, I know that's complex, but the end result is you get (approximately) 5V through the low beam filament in the effected light, making it dim, 5V through the high-beam filament in the same bulb, which STILL isn't enough to make the bulb "bright", and about 1.5V through the high beam filaments of the 2 high beam bulbs and the other low beam bulb (not enough to generally be visable).

 

In that scenario, if you were to turn on the high beams, the effected bulb would either remain very dim, OR would go out completely.

Edited August 21, 2009 by datsunaholic

[HRH]

Do you happen to know where to look for the weak ground? I have the exact same problem and I've been trying to chase it down, but so far, no luck. Both high beam lights are barely on with the low beams on, then the pass. side lights up bright on high (both) and the driver's side hi doesn't light, and the low beam is even dimmer. I'll check that headlight relay in the morning. And even though I've read your above post and it sort of makes sense, I still don't get it. Apparently I can build an L motor but I'm not a wiring genius. ;)

[kiznook]

Do you happen to know where to look for the weak ground? I have the exact same problem and I've been trying to chase it down, but so far, no luck. Both high beam lights are barely on with the low beams on, then the pass. side lights up bright on high (both) and the driver's side hi doesn't light, and the low beam is even dimmer. I'll check that headlight relay in the morning. And even though I've read your above post and it sort of makes sense, I still don't get it. Apparently I can build an L motor but I'm not a wiring genius. ;)

 

Check your fuses. I had this same exact problem and it turned out one of the fuses was blown.

 

Just to make sure the information on this thread is accurate, the relay pictured above is NOT a headlight relay, that is something related to the 3rd gear swith and carburetor switch IIRC, but definitely NOT a headlight relay. The headlight relay should be on the back side of the strut tower facing the fuse box on the passenger side, with 6 wires leading to it.

Edited December 18, 2009 by kiznook

[HRH]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure all the fuses are good, I don't think the lights would work at all if they were blown? And yes, what is that picture of? It's down by the horn on the lower radiator side opposite the battery. The headlight relay is on the strut tower. I already checked that and it's fine.

 

What I'm trying to figure out is where that common ground goes to, or rather, where does it end so I can check it? I see something on the wiring diagram noted as a regulator which has an earth symbol, but all I can figure is the voltage regulator, but I don't see why it would tie into that.

 

I know how I would wire the lights with a relay, but it appears that is not the case with 1971 Japan.

 

I did replace the headlight switch, which made a big difference in the quality of running lights. They're all very bright now, like they should be.

[CorAce]

inline4, the relay your talking about is for the dual point system of the old L motor. it connects the third gear switch, carb and second set of points. if you have a KA than you don't need this part. when I started my project I pulled the wiring harness out and cleaned/repaired all the connectors and splice point. I also removed all the unused wire. I'm a wire guy for work, but if you have a shop manual with a good wire diagram, a couple of days and some patience you can rehab your harness to like new. It can be done in the car, but I would recommend pulling it and all the connected bits (relays) in one piece, marking every thing with tap and labels. on the other hand I have never seen a KA wire swap so that may be a nether story. ;)

 

I have a pic but I cant figer out how the get it on this new format:mad:

Edited December 18, 2009 by CorAce

[LeX]

you can get the relay on rockauto.com i just bought one.. bout $10 shipped !!! have 4 left at that price when i ordered

 

 

although by what you say you don't need one! lol

[Unclejesse88]

I have a picture here somewhere of what pins for the headlight relay go to what, so you can replace it with a standard bosch five pin relay. If you use a bosch relay connector, then the factory pins can be removed from the factory connector, and installed into the bosch connector with no cutting/splicing. As for the dim headlight, check your fuse box. Sometimes a bit of rolling the fuses can restore a poor connection. If found the relay replacement schematic, but I'm not sure where I got it from, and if it's copywrited. . .

[HRH]

That would be super helpful! I was going to probe all the wires and do the same thing, but after figuring out the relay was good, decided to just put it back in. Cover looked bad, but after I separated it, the innards looked beautiful.

 

You wouldn't happen to know where the shared ground of the headlights ultimately ground do you? That's what I can't find, thus having a hard time fixing it, may wire a redundant ground. I'm studying the wiring diagram, but haven't been able to see anything bad. Or where ground ultimately is. There's a ground at the box marked "regularor" that seems to tie into the relay and the top pin of the three prong headlight connector, which seems to be ground.

[CorAce]

if my memory serves, most of the main grounds come together at the spot where the alternator and voltage reg grounds come together with the wiring harness.peel back the tape and see if it has a splice point. And try running a good ground wire from the engine block to the body.

 

P.S. I'm drinking heavily, so I cant be held responsible for fire, shocks or blurry vision:blink:

[HRH]

Sweet! Thanks! So I was following the diagrams correctly. Odd it ties into the regulator, but whatever I guess.

[Unclejesse88]

I'm not sure it ties directly into the regulator, but more likely the ground on the strut tower right next to the regulator. Take your test light and put the clip on the positive battery terminal then probe the two black wires at the headlight relay. If the light is dim your ground is no good.

[HRH]

YEAAAAHHHHHH!!!!

 

I figured it out! My black wires on the headlight relay connector were fine, both good grounds, kept looking and looking, jumping grounds on the dim side. So finally, after probing and testing all this crap, while the headlights were on, I grabbed the bright passenger side low beam connector and disconnected it, and plugged it back in. FIXED!!!! The driver side low beam headlight now shines correctly and both interior high beam lights were not on. So apparently the connector ground was shitty and was pulling the ground from the other side, thus appearing fine, but screwing with the side that did have a good ground. Fin weird, it's no wonder I'm not an electrical guy.

 

Anyway, I have some pictures so it's easier for the next person:

 

It may still appear less bright here, but it's just the angle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the help to point me in the right direction guys!