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Clutch Shudder


Logical1

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Well in the last week or so my clutch has started shuddering when I backup... Read my books, searched the forums, did the tests... Bled my clutch fluid, cleaned and re-filled, made it SLIGHTLY better but its still there from the Forum searches It sounds like the clutch pilot bushing. Any other thoughts? I have the dog leg 5 does that work with the standard 510 bushing? I found this one on fleebay for the right price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-510,520,521,620,720-Clutch-Pilot-Bushing---NOS_W0QQitemZ370243744408QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090812?IMSfp=TL0908121410007r5728

 

Also normally I would do the work myself but as I don't have a lift or anybody that wants to give me hand. Getting in there to replace it seems like a MAJOR pain in the ass so I'm considering actually taking her in... Thoughts?

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Only when backing up?? Check the engine and tranny mounts, drive shaft, carrier bearing, U joints, springs, shocks. Clutch shudder should occur in any gear so check the rear end pinion bearing for looseness too. Are the U bolts that hold the leaf springs tight?

Edited by datzenmike
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x2

and do it yourself ive pulled a dog leg in and out of a car 6 times in an hour before (mount issues had to fab some stuff and test fit) its not that hard pull the shifter pull the bell housing bolts and the starter then jack the car up and drop the drive line and mount then wiggle a little and its out a clutch kit is $100 and the bushing and flywheel surfacing so what $135 and you dont have to worry about it for a long ass time do it man get under there and kick some ass you can do ti taking it to a shop is the easy way out:lol:

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Hey I live in Everett and I have a clutch, pressureplate, resurfaced flywheel and new pilot bushing. I had it on my Z for about 500 miles but it wouldn't hold all my torque. I swithced to aluminum flywheel and turbo cluth. 75$ if you want it.

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Wow guys, thanks for the quick replies! I'm going to answer in order:

 

1. "Wharf Rat - Entire clutch? Tranny?

 

2. datzenmike - I get a little shudder when starting in first also and I drive fairly quick and its only on partial clutch engagement so 2-5 doesn't get much of a chance to shudder. Also sometimes reverse doesn't shudder if I back in & out a couple times.... my suspension is solid and and my u joints looks and feel great. 2 door sedan with coilovers, no leaf springs. The previous owner was a 20 Y.O. kid so I'm guessing the clutch/tranny got abused...

 

3. bonvo - I totally agree, last thing I want to do is take it the shop! However its my daily driver and cant be down for long. As I have never done it before and have NO help so I'm a little nervous! I really would like to do it myself and learn but dammit no car would suck! Although you have mostly convinced me to do it anyway I'll just need to buy a floor jack... I have been getting away with being lazy with my hydraulic lift at work that I can lift the front or back up with but doesn't have a workspace underneath...

 

4. 240ADAM - Wow if that works with my set-up sounds like a great price and a good idea! Just curious what your set-up cost you? I'm thinking of going turbo l20b eventually and even though I wont have your torque It would be nice...

 

5. ggzilla - Not my rear drums for sure, I just re-built and adjusted them nicely. Rear wheels turn smooth as butter!

 

Thanks in advance for all the tips/info/idea's/offers!

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3. bonvo - I totally agree, last thing I want to do is take it the shop! However its my daily driver and cant be down for long. As I have never done it before and have NO help so I'm a little nervous! I really would like to do it myself and learn but dammit no car would suck! Although you have mostly convinced me to do it anyway I'll just need to buy a floor jack... I have been getting away with being lazy with my hydraulic lift at work that I can lift the front or back up with but doesn't have a workspace underneath...

 

 

even with no help this can be knocked out in a few hours with a floor jack some stands and basic hand tools if you were closer i would find a way there to help ya do it just get a clutch kit and a bushing and go to it once you get under there you will see what needs to be done

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It sounds like to me that your flywheel is a little polished and that will creat chatter when I first got my z it did the exact same thing. I say just change it out for a new one. About my turbo setup, after rebuilding the engine total was probly 1200 or so, it was well worth it. Let bme know if you want to buy the clutch, for a little extra I could probly come help you switch it out.

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I found this one on fleebay for the right price:

 

Thoughts?

right price?!?!? :eek:

dont pay $11 for shipping from that ripofff seller!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :fu:

 

it is still avail from nissan, about $4

 

 

 

how many miles on the clutch?

could be glazed... esp if you rest your foot on the clutch pedal when cruising.

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  • 1 month later...

Well my clutch shudder calmed down a bit, but then progressed into clutch slippage... So now its time to jump into it! I have some cash saved up for new wheels/Tires but I'm going to throw it into my clutch as new Wheels & Tires would be great but not much good unless the car moves!

I have a l20 and dogleg outtta a 200sx and found some decent clutch kit's from Rock Auto:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1208539&parttype=1993&a=FRc1208539k334532

 

Just outta curiosity I looked into performance clutches and found these bad boys:

 

http://thmotorsports.com/spec_clutch/spec_clutch_kit_stage_3_plus/sn083f/i-170622.aspx

http://thmotorsports.com/fidanza/fidanza_flywheel_aluminum/143121/i-165489.aspx

 

I know this is more clutch then my current engine needs but its damn sexy and I really dig the replaceable surface on the flywheel. Also If I decide to turbo my l20 in the future I would have the clutch to go with it...

I am not a rich man in the slightest but I do get giddy over performance parts.... Not getting new tires for a while is going to suck though as I have street slicks on now and its starting to get rainy. The cost of the performance clutch is massive compared to the standard kit and just getting my current flywheel resurfaced but then how often am I going to replace the clutch so I might as well go for the gold eh? Thoughts/recommendations ?

Edited by Logical1
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Order the 200mm one for the Roadster. Highest clamp force of all Nissan p/ps. Get a new throw out bearing.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1208539&parttype=1993&a=FRc1208539k334532

 

This will easily hold a future turbo. Get your flywheel surfaced and the Roadster p/p and you have just as good and about $700 saved.

Edited by datzenmike
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You've already found the problem, which would have been my guess as well, the clutch. But I don't think anyone mentioned why it was the worst in reverse......It's because reverse is geared the lowest, even lower than first. The amount of reduction is what makes it feel the worst. And less noticeable as you go up through the gear changes.

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