SurgeL320 Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 This is how the rotors sit. They tuck in nicely Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Part 1 These are the steps needed to do the right hand swap for those interested in it. This is one of those modifications that serve no real purpose other than its cool factor. Now keep in mind that everything on the bottom end of the steering colum past the firewall is interchangeable with little work, but everything past it and inside the cab will take some work to do so. First > unbolt all the steering stuff to the front wheels , idler arms, tie rod bushings, etc. Second > remove steering wheel, unbolt steering colum under dash, disconnect wires . Now go on and unbolt the colum from the chasis, you WILL have to remove the idler arm together with the box and colum, you will remove the idler arm after its out. Third > Flip all steering components 180 Degrees. That means the wormgear in the box must be removed and inserted in the opposite end. The Idler arms must ALL be removed and turn 180 degrees aswell. Fourth > Redrill and bolt on the steering box to the chasis. This is easy as the datsun engineers designed these parts to be used on both ends. you will also need to open up a new colum hole on the firewall ,its already prestamped which makes it easy This is the steering box bracket , you will drill one new hole on the box where the drill bit is, notice the tab is already there And mount the bracket and line up a new hole. it will look like this after its drilled \ This allows it to bolt on perfect and strong , this is where you better hope you aligned the colum hole on the firewall. It clears the battery bracket fine. Fifth > flip and install all the steering components . If you forget to them 180* it will turn the opposite way. Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Part 2 The right hand swap get tricky inside the cab. Nothing really lines up on the dash notice the column notch on the dash intrument panel. The glove box side doesnt have it . There is no way to get away with this. You also cant just swap the instrument panel face with the glove box , there are a couple of mouting holes for the light and key hole . The only thing to do is cut and weld them on the opposite sides But be careful, try to keep it in a bracket form so that all the holes and screw holes go accordingly with each other. This makes it easier if you do . notice the cut and alignment I did not get a clear pic but only the backing to the gauge face and glove box need to be cut and welded. The glove box and instrument panel face bolt on to that. The gauge face is aluminum and will need grinded at the top to fit is new place. same with the glove box When its ready to be welded there is a gap towards the center on both pieces because of a contour shape that doesnt match up . It will have to be filled , this weld WILL show after installation so do a good job. I still have to clean up the welds but overall it bolts on good.It will need to have the column to the firewall mount moved also. do that after its all done. Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Wow. Cool thread. :cool: Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 nice man, good progress so far, keep it up!!! Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 It's good to know that the steering box swaps over by flipping it 180. How hard was it to swap the wormgear? Also im wondering if this can be done to a 620 steering box ? Quote Link to comment
74datsun620 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 This truck is going to be cool!!!!! Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 It's good to know that the steering box swaps over by flipping it 180. How hard was it to swap the wormgear ? The box is capped on one side , flip it around and your good. Trying to wiggle it out and putting it back together took me about 2 hours . it has to be "just right" . Theres a car show in 2 weeks that im trying to get it to. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 oh man....i am trying to figure out my nl320.... nice thread and good luck.... have you talked color yet?... matching the engine? any ways, still a nice build. Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 oh man....i am trying to figure out my nl320.... nice thread and good luck.... have you talked color yet?... matching the engine? any ways, still a nice build. Thanks man I like your NL too. I like the baby blue paint but I want it metalic but thats the last step. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 Cool. Any pics of the worm gear flip in the steering box? Did you cut it off and re-weld it? In the 521's, the worm gear and steering shaft are one piece. I like the idea of creating a RHD, but I've owned one before....so I got that out of my system years ago :) Still an interesting mod :) Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Cool. Any pics of the worm gear flip in the steering box? Did you cut it off and re-weld it? In the 521's, the worm gear and steering shaft are one piece. I like the idea of creating a RHD, but I've owned one before....so I got that out of my system years ago :) Still an interesting mod :) No pics but the steering shaft and worm gear are one piece so there is no modding to this. Just uncap the opposite end turn and wiggle it out the opposite end that has shaft sticking out. Its pretty easy but like i said before it has to be just right as the tolerance is minimal , also centering the worm gear in the box while trying to hook it up to the idler arm can be difficult. Any tips on driving right side? It feels akward just sitting in it , like i cant see much Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Check out how the alternator fits . After modifying the mounting bracket it sits better than before, now its not sitting directly under the water outlet and clears everything. All i need is a belt 1" longer. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I had to pull the worm gear and reinstall when I shortened the column in my wife's 521......so I know the pain your talking about :) The 620 box won't work...it's closed on the end. The capped box can be flipped, but by my reckoning, it will steer backwards. I'm missing something. Is the pitman arm point the other direction now? When the box is flipped, the vertical shaft moves from one side of the worm gear to the other....and that's whats causing the prob in my head. Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 it will steer backwards. Is the pitman arm point the other direction now? When the box is flipped, the vertical shaft moves from one side of the worm gear to the other. HA! Good thing you mentioned this because at first when i set it up i turned it to the right and the wheels went left :lol: . I turned the pitman arm backwards so its on the opposite side towards the radiator .All the components clear everything except the torsion bars. I forgot what , but something hits the torsion bars so i bent the torsion bars around it a little and it holds fine. Most trucks out have screwed up torsion bars anyway . Ill post pics later Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Why did you shorten the shaft anyway? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I shortened it 3.5" to have more room. .....hhhmmm..... If your tierods aren't online with the crosslink, i'm thinking the your toe in will change radically when driving and turning, but hopefully I'm wrong. Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I shortened it 3.5" to have more room. .....hhhmmm..... If your tierods aren't online with the crosslink, i'm thinking the your toe in will change radically when driving and turning, but hopefully I'm wrong. Ok i forgot to mention on this ill have to make a tierod shaft , the rod that adjust to connect left and right idler arms , 4" longer . Just get a rod and thread the ends to make the male ends to connect to the female on the tierods. GOOD EYE ,but there is no toe in Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted April 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 I picked up a master cylinder from a Z for the disc brake swap from the junkyard. On the side there is a stamp that read something like "part modified with oversize bore, replace with over size piston" . Its a 3/4 bore but i have not measured it myself yet. Ive never seen this before, have you ? Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted May 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 I have a wiring question. My key switch is labeled S- B- Ig- The S=Starter B=fusebox Ig= fusebox . I dont have a 320 wiring diagram but im guessing the IG should lead to the coil, correct? if not then it would have 2 wires leading to the fusebox according to the newer manual . I dont know weather its positive or negative on the coil . Does anyone have a diagram for this or know why it doesnt crank Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 You should be able to find the wiring on my sight olddatsuns.com the B is for battery and should be the constant 12volts from the battery via a lug on the fuse box....iirc. Use a test light to test that you have 12v at the back of the switch and that it is also on the S term when you turn the key to start. If you have both of those, use the test light to check that you have the 12v start signal at the little wire on the starter. If you do it should crank. If you do and it doesn't then it's either the connection to he start or the solenoid on the starter. If you don't have the signal it's a wiring prob. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Oh. The other wire was for the ACC position on the switch which the 320does not have. Dang that was a lot to type from a phone!!! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 I couldn't quite read it all on the phone....the IG goes back to the fuse box to power all the switched electrical stuff. So...B(batt) is constant hot coming in... IG is switched hot going back....S goes straight to the starter. Hope that helps. from my site... http://www.olddatsuns.com/data/dat-320.pdf Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 .hhhmmm.....that should have worked...anyway...the wiring diagram is under the 320 section. Quote Link to comment
SurgeL320 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2010 Dang that was a lot to type from a phone!!! Thanks mike i really appreciate it . Im going out to try it again im trying to get it going this weekend. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.