Jump to content

Surge L320 progress


SurgeL320

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I had a machinist friend with a large lathe do it for me last time. I removed the entire steering box and tube/shaft assembly and took it to his place. I carefully removed the tube, then the shaft with the cage nut with the balls still in it. We cut about 3" out of the shaft up towards the driver. We turned both cut ends of the shaft to square the ends and turn the diameter down to a known size. We then made a custom barrel connector that fit over the ends we turned. It was a fairly tight fit....we had to tap it on just a bit. Once it was all together, we welded it. We also turned the mounting flange off the end of the tube and removed a similar amount from the tube...then welded the flange back on.

 

If you're going to use an after market wheel...which you kinda have to since shortening the column pulls the steering wheel down into your lap....a lot more than you'd think!!! Mount up the wheel and adapter first and see how much of a gap there is. If there's a 1.5" gap, then shorted the shaft 3 inches, but the tube only 1.5"....then the aftermarket stuff will mount up perfectly :)

Link to comment

I see what you mean about cutting the tube 1.5" because i already have a grant steering wheel and hub mount. But that seems like a alot of work... I took the simplest way by cutting the shaft but now i just need to sleeve it and weld it , im able to do this with everything installed . I would post pictures but im sure you can figure it out . Boy ! that 3" makes a world of difference

Link to comment

Another reason for posting the pics....at least one reason I do it.....it becomes an archive of my work for ME to refer back to. I go back through some of my threads and find I didn't remember half the stuff I've done! :) Plus, there's always someone that may look at a pic and get an "Ah ha!!" ....you don't want to deprive them of that do you? :)

Link to comment

Your right mike ! and plus I realize i didnt explain it well . What i meant was keep the threaded and splined end where the steering wheel goes and cut and remove the 3"s under it

 

like this. This is after its been cut and the 3" of shaft removed

IMG_2642.jpg

 

It looks pretty short

 

 

IMG_2643.jpg

This is the threaded side (that you keep!) and the part thats been removed

IMG_2653.jpg

 

I will edit this once its on and done .Plus I have to pick up the correct size tubbing to sleeve weld it. but you can see how quick and reliable it is. If i had the tube it would have taken me probably 45 min to complete it

 

 

Oh and you can see the pedals , theyve been swapped over and fit fine

Link to comment

Doing this gave me an idea for my tie rod shaft . Its now short because i reversed the idler arms . I was gonna have a tie rod shaft made but now im just gonna sleeve/ weld and add about 4" it needs to it . should be fine and ill post updates once its done.

Link to comment

Pics make it so much nicer :) thanks!

 

This should go without saying, but for some reason, I feel compelled.......

 

I would caution beginner welder/fabricators that this is not a mod that you want to "learn" on. Good welds are a matter of life and death on this mod so perform it at your own risk....better yet, get a pro to do it!!

 

 

 

By the time you put the steering wheel adapter on, it won't look so short. You're gonna love the extra room!!!

Link to comment

I would have to agree on you with this, not for the beginer. Im gonna weld this myself , im even gonna heat it with a torch till its red hot so the welds will adhere better. This is definitely fat people friendly now that i can sit better and get out easier ;)

Link to comment

:cool: Today I wired a pushbutton-start to my ignition and also added a kill switch somewhere near or between or around my cab . The pushbutton-start is a really simple and cool AND effective little custom touch that goes along way, they both cost 5bucks each

 

IMG_2711.jpg

The smallest word bubble says- "hot" wire coming in from battery

IMG_2711-1.jpg

 

I feel it cleans up the dash . It also fit almost perfect like it belongs there

IMG_2714.jpg

Link to comment

How easy / difficult was the swapping the pedals over ?

 

Its actually a pretty straight forward install with few issues . The main problem is the actual pedals and the brackets in different locations in reference to the wheel well and the steering column . On the LHD the clutch and brake are connected as one bracket and the column is in between that bracket and the gas pedal. But when its switched over the column must fit between the clutch and brake in their bracket so the master cylinder and clucth cylinders mount and clear the firewall so the fit is tight on both sides of the firewall. I hammered a dent into the wheel well hump big enough to make room for the pedal and my foot but small enough so the tire clears , im gonna match the passenger side to it too . Ill re-edit with pics at home

Link to comment

Today i installed LED brake lights on my truck . I gotta say for $30 and about less than an hour this has got to be one of the best upgrades one can do and so easy everyone should, really. This is a how to on how i did it

 

I went to walmart and picked up some 6" LED brake lights they were $15 a piece , dont go to autozone they sell them for $30 a piece. There is no special tools required only a little bending and a little grinding, very little its more like shaving

 

 

 

 

First off remove all the components and wires . This original brake light plastic and trim wont be needed so either scrap it or sell it.

DSC07464.jpg

 

Only the bucket and the bolts that mount it to the brake light frame are used. This is what the bucket looks like inside

DSC07448.jpg

 

Your gonna need to remove the bulbs to run the wires

DSC07447.jpg

 

But in order to fit the wire connection plug inside the bucket you gotta shave off the plastic tabs so it slides inside , it would not fit if you dont , its only about 1/4" on each side. here it is shaved already under my thumb

DSC07506.jpg

DSC07507.jpg

 

The problem i had at first is that there is no mounting holes and nothing to attach it firmly unto anything . The light also doesnt come with any hardware of anykind but dont worry because nothing is needed except for 2 self tapping screws. So what i did was bend the actual tabs on the bucket up and back over so a screw can be drilled in to the face cover .

 

This is the tab already bent back , you can see now where you will be able to drill and mount it. I must admit i did this perfect because it created an interference fit where i actually had to force the light in between the two tabs and it "snapped in place. it was even hard getting it off , and this is with out the screws yet

DSC07458.jpg

DSC07456.jpg

DSC07452.jpg

 

That allowed the light to be screwed into the bucket and the bucket to be bolted unto the frame in the original position .

 

The only thing left is to notch the rubber trim so it fits around the bent tabs

DSC07466.jpg

 

 

When installing i had to bent the tabs alittle inside because it was butterflying out and hitting the frame preventing it to go inside . after that it bolted fine. See the tabs pointing outward

DSC07452.jpg

 

They mount flush on the frame with only a little gap around the edges where the original contour was. Could hardly tell

DSC07483.jpg

 

 

Then i wired it to a battery and was "blinded by the light" at about 15 ft away. Just check out the reflection the floor and on the bushes with just one light wired on, this is real and i had a few porch lights on . That ofcourse it the high beam with brake pressed and all led's on .

 

DSC07490.jpg

DSC07491.jpg

DSC07489.jpg

DSC07497.jpg

 

 

This is low beam ( running lights) on . only the outer 2 light up , still very bright

DSC07498.jpg

 

 

Now that you see how easy,cheap,and fast it is and the results you get ,you gotta ask yourself why doesnt everybody do it ... right?

Link to comment
  • 3 months later...

Great job the only thing I did different is use a universal l bracket and removed the original housing so I wouldn't butcher it looks good though man I made a mod to the front turn signals two I'll post mine were to corroded and with the positive ground through the grille you'd tap of and they would shut off I came up with a great cheap fix all you bees is a cut off wheel and some rtv hightemp

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

yeah disk brakes are nice . i would like to see how your front turn signals came out. I stole some from the junkyard off a b210 im gonna make work.

 

I jumped around alot and now im coming around to the small side of the different projects. gonna really try and finish by the end of summer , i need the mpg!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.