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i broke it


chebetio510

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Go down to NAPA and get another section of line. Or if you have the flaring tool, get a fitting end, cut off the line and put a new end fitting on. I'm not sure if that's what you're talking about though, need more specifics.

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buy a brake flare nut wrench so it dont happen again

 

if your changin clutches offen make sure to resurface the flywheel or ck the TO. bearing or sleeve is correct.

A clutch should last more than 5 yrs even if you beat on them(or chick driving it that lives on hills)

 

check the sleeve? i have done all the other stuff. so i will look for a napa, around here never seen one.. if i were to but the whole line how long should it be?

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When I was new to 510s My now famous beater 510 the clutch would slip every year like clock work. I would even put a Roadster pressure plate in there. The disc would still look good.

Then I did a motor swap and put another flywheel on and never needed to change a clutch again.The orginal Flywheel in there did have some grooves but I didnt think it was a big deal. IT WAS A BIG DEAL!!!!!!!!!!

 

My 521truck with 90K mile on there has hardly any wear on the clutch disc.(bad tranny swap)) so if its SLIPPING prematurely there is some thing wrong.

 

 

look at your clutch disc and see if its wearing to the rivits.

 

the Sleeve goes onto the T/O bearing. I know later Z cars have different sizes.

 

L20s has 200mm flywheels while the trucks had 225mm flywheels and the set up are different just to let you know.

 

So ask yourself how long was it since the last change and do you have the correct set up.

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its weird.. it was getting pressure.. then it got super stiff... i look at the slave cylinder and it was almost popped off. not strait.. y??:confused:

 

well anyways put it back in and after that no more pressure.. also i have play in the fork.. up and down play.. as if it slides of the bearing retainer.. how is that possible while still being held on the small ball bearing that it snaps on???

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I assume you adjusted the threaded ball by the slave where the fork is fully foward with about 1/16 slop. That should be good.

 

Bleed the clutch again then see if the Fork moves when your girlfriend pushes the clutch in. I assume it worked caus you said its almost out.

 

So if it moves I think it would disingage the clutch. Unless wrong parts are installed.

 

But look at the Brake thread I wrote. My Brake master was bad last night also. Never thought it would suck in air into the system???????

 

 

Sorry I cant really help anymore.

Theres got to be somebody close by to help you.?

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The clutch master can also be pushing fluid around it's seals, effectively moving nothing. If you get a new one of those, make sure you bench bleed it, unless it says otherwise in the instructions. Read the instructions thoroughly.

 

Worst comes to worst, take it to a shop that doesn't charge that much. Or a local worthy neighborhood mechanic. If you were in Spokane, I'd stop by, but I'm not sure where you are!

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adust it then bleed again i would personally do the whole system replace the slave and master that way unless you get a bad unit that isnt the problem cheap insurance in my eyes hydrolics arent that hard abd from what you discribed i would check 2 things

1)take the rubber boot off the slave it fluid gets everywhere you got a bum slave

 

2) remove line from master and place a catch can under it press pedal if there is a good stream of fluid then it should be ok if its weak or nothing at all replace it

 

fill in your location on your profile you could be in a fellow ratsuners back yard :D i hope i helped i wish i could do more

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Hopefully the metal line you got has the correct flared fittings. You need one with metric fittings: M10x1.0 inverted flare.

 

If you bought a line that has standard (english) threaded fittings on it, and you forced it to screw in, then it will never seal and you should go back to square one.

Like Hainz said - USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH next time. they are well worth the few dollars.

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So this is where I am at now..

 

Like i said i was getting pressure. then the slave popped out.. Fluid leaked a lil, so the pressure it had was lost. started bleeding again and after that nothing.. Like i said earlier, the fork would move when i would enage the clutch, as if it wanted to slide of the bearing retainer..

 

i did get a metric line for the slave cyinder.. it went in by hand and tightned it enough.. After i couldnt get pressure anymore. i stopped trying and was trying to see y the fork would move so much. while pushing it back in it completely fell off. so i have to remove the tranny to put it on again.,. i will get another slave cylinder to check maybe it got messed up when it popped off:confused:

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If your clutch fork fell off completely, it sounds like either the fork itself broke, or more likely the little spring deal that holds it on the steel ball on the inside of the bellhousing broke, and is letting it flop around.

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