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tranny question


Guest DatsuNoob

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Guest DatsuNoob

Looking for a decent 5 speed trans, and I hear the ones from the 80's 280ZX turbos are the way to go. I also want a clutch that engages good and firm, I know Hainz is partial to the roadster clutches for that reason. Does anyone know if that would be compatible with a ZX 5 speed trans, or would I need to use the same clutch from the same model tranny I pulled?

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I have had both in my Z. Curently running the t5 with a pro 5.0 shifter. Shifts like a real sports car should. But if I were going into a truck I would chose the zx nissan 5 speed. it is more compact, less expensive, more readily available, and they all seem to shift real nice and that is a plus in a dd.

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Guest DatsuNoob

So the ZX 5 speed? What cars should I look out for in the junkyard then? Is that just a non turbo 280zx trans? What years work the best? Does it matter? Will that roadster clutch work out for that application?

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78z

79-83 zx na

not sure on the clutch but it may work fine. you will need the clutch fork and release bearing from the zx also.

When you get 1 also get some new shifter bushings. they go on the end and side of the shifter rod. they are cheap and worth a new set when it is out.

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Wouldn't the truck 5 speed, say a 77 or so be just the same and go in with less effort, and knowing that "rockauto" has the correct clutch kit WITH the correct t/o bearing and collar, make it a little more desirable..huh wouldn't it?

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Guest DatsuNoob

I just want something that doesn't resemble tractor gearing like the 4 spd I got now. I know my L20 would go a little faster with the right gearing, but mostly I just want that extra 5th gear for the freeway so I dont top out at 65with high rpms.

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The roadster clutch will only work on a 200mm flywheel. These came on 5 bolt crank L16 and L18 motors. You would have to find a 6 bolt flywheel for an L20B, somewhat scarce. The L 5 spd from a truck or 280zx will mate to any L series motor and flywheel/clutch combo you can think up. The input splines are the same and the transmission doesn't know, or care, what is driving it, 240mm, 225mm or 200mm. BTW the flywheel determines which clutch you can use on it. A larger clutch uses a larger bolt pattern.

 

If you want to get rid of some of that lower first gear, change the 4.375 rear gears for some 4.11s. This will also lower top speed RPMs too. Be warned that this will slow your acceleration down a bit and make hauling heavy loads a bit more difficult but gas mileage will probably increase. A 5spd will lower top speed RPMs even more and is a good idea. The rear end swap is just easier I think.

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I just want something that doesn't resemble tractor gearing like the 4 spd I got now. I know my L20 would go a little faster with the right gearing, but mostly I just want that extra 5th gear for the freeway so I dont top out at 65with high rpms.

 

 

Do you have a tach? You do know that L's redline around 7000 rpm right?

 

I'm asking because I always thought I was running high rpm's with my 4-speed until I got a tach. 80 was no problem after that ;)

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The 1977-83 Z-car transmission is the same size as the truck 5-speed. I bolted in a 1983 280ZX transmission into a 1978 Datsun truck. No modifications at all. I used the factory 225mm clutch kit for a truck and the throwout bearing for the truck. The 225mm grabs just fine, especially for an L20b powered vehicle. It grabs fine even for a fuel injected 2.8L in a Z.

I'd say stay away from the Roadster Clutch. If you have a fairly powerful engine and you want light weight clutch then you get the 200mm. It is a smaller diameter so less roating mass, less cyntrifical weight to spin up for those high rpms. Hainz likes to race around. Also, due to the additional clamping force they go through throwout bearings faster... which requires you to drop the tranmission to replace.

 

I think you'll be happy with the stock 225mm. You can still do burnouts just fine. There is also the option of a 240mm clutch. You just need to get the 280ZX 2+2 flywheel as well. Larger surface so it has great grabbing power without the additional pedal weight. The Roadster clutch is a pain in traffic.

 

Then of course if you want the Roadster clutch you need to somehow find a 200mm 6-bolt flywheel from a 1975-80 Datsun 'car' (not truck) with the L-series engine. Those are actually kind of hard to find.

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So what do you think is wrong with my setup? I have a fresh (stock) rebuilt L-18, SU's, Z 5-speed... I have the stock clutch for the L18 and I'm using what I think is the throwout bearing and collar for the Z... The collar I'm using is longer...

 

My problem is that I wore out 2 throwout bearings in less than 4 months...

 

Right now it is making a noise again and I suspect it to be another throwout bearing... When I put in the clutch I can feel it in the pedal and I can hear it loud... It only happens for about a second when the throw out hits a certain RPM... It sounds like the bearing spinning and vibrating has lost the grease in it... It was brand new

 

My other idea is: Could it be the input shaft bushing maybe real worn out and that is where the vibrating in the pedal and the sound is coming from... The RPM's from the input shaft could be vibrating...

 

I appreciate the help and ideas

 

haubstr

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I think the collar and bearing need to match the clutch setup you're using.

(or maybe Datsunaholic remembers)

 

So your Z collar with the truck clutch may not be right. Maybe the bearing is in constant contact even with the clutch engauged and that's why they wear out so fast.

 

The L18 can have either the 200mm or 225mm clutch. Which one do you have? My L18 slipped a little with the 200. The 225mm was perfect.

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I'm pretty sure it is the 200mm clutch... I haven't measured it... So should I try the L18 collar and throw-out bearing???

 

What do you think about the possibility of the Brass Input bushing wearing out???

 

I don't want to pull the transmission again... I have had it out already 4 times since March... Oh well...

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if you have the 200mm clutch then just to be sure order the bearing and collar for a 1974 Datsun 610 (car w/L18)

 

The pilot bushing should be replaced. I don't know how important that is. I think it is just a guid for the input shaft. It should have grease in it.

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The pilot bushing is, IMO, critical for keeping the front if the input spline (and clutch disc as well) from wobbling and causing vibration. I just bought one from Nissan... less than $6. Absolutely change it.

There are many methods for removing the old one, all are time consuming and difficult. Here's what I do... Get a small chisel or screwdriver that will fit down inside the end of the crank where the bushing is and using a hammer, split the bushing lengthwise in at least two or three places. The pieces fall or can be picked out. You should be able to easily cut the softer bronze without gouging the crank material. A small scratch will only help hold the new bushing.

 

Heres a list of Nissan release bearing housings. Be sure that the new bearing is packed with grease. The housing also has a cavity that should be greased, as well as the pivot points on the clutch arm.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/clutch_replacement_figuresTObearing.jpg[/img]"]clutch_replacement_figuresTObearing.jpg

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78z

79-83 zx na

not sure on the clutch but it may work fine. you will need the clutch fork and release bearing from the zx also.

When you get 1 also get some new shifter bushings. they go on the end and side of the shifter rod. they are cheap and worth a new set when it is out.

 

I think the clutch forks on all 5 spds are the same so you won't absolutely need it, but it comes with the tranny anyway, so keep it. The release bearings are the same but the housing that holds them are unique to the clutch diameter they work with. If you have a 200mm clutch and you install a tranny that was used with a 225mm clutch you will have to keep and use your old 200mm one.

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I think you'll be happy with the stock 225mm. You can still do burnouts just fine. There is also the option of a 240mm clutch. You just need to get the 280ZX 2+2 flywheel as well. Larger surface so it has great grabbing power without the additional pedal weight. The Roadster clutch is a pain in traffic.

 

Then of course if you want the Roadster clutch you need to somehow find a 200mm 6-bolt flywheel from a 1975-80 Datsun 'car' (not truck) with the L-series engine. Those are actually kind of hard to find.

 

If you want a 240mm clutch get the flywheel from any '80-'85 720 4X4 truck. I have an '80 720 4X4 L20B and it had one, but only the 4X4s have them. The Z series motors were six bolt and are identical. They are used on heavy 4X4 trucks so will work nicely on anything less like a car.

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Noob, i swapped in a 5 speed from a 82 ZX non turbo into my 521. The swap into a 620 should be less work than i had to do. If your 4 speed is a long tail [longer] the driveshaft wont need to be shortened. The trans. mounts interchange, use the t/o bearing thats on your 4 speed now & the Z clutch fork should work fine. Doug is right on the truck slave,use that one. The Z slave hose fitting will hit the torsion bar & cant be used. I posted lots of pics of my swap which may help you ............

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=523

When you go to the yard take Kevin with you,he & Ryan used a metal pole to remove the trans. i bought...:D

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Guest DatsuNoob

Hmmm, The only Z I saw at P-A-P was an 80's turbo. It had the t5. I took the hood vents though, either for when I get a turbo CA18 motor or if someone wants them :D. Still looking for that zx 5 speed :)

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