Will

I just noticed some more details in this photo: My metal line is a bit more simple - no attached vacuum lines.

Thanks everyone! This is exactly the information I was looking for. Looks like the metal fuel line vanished before I bought the engine, but luckily I have a spare (from the old L18, I think)

Thanks! Now I gotta track down that metal line - I'm sure its around here somewhere.

I see. thanks - any ideas on how I should route the unused fuel return line?

I'm trying to hook up a Weber DGV to my Datsun 710 with an L20B. The carb I'll be using has a manual choke, and the DGV that was on the car when I bought it has an electric choke. I can't seem to figure out where to hook up the fuel return line. There are two fuel lines coming in to the engine compartment next to each other, one is 1/4" and the other is 3/16". I can't remember how the return line (the 3/16" line) was hooked up before - there doesn't seem to be anywhere for it to hook up. Below are some images of the two carbs, and where I think everything goes. The carbs don't have a pipe where I think the return line fitting should be - can a bit of appropriately-sized pipe be pressed into place? Or is this not used on some DGVs?

Got the engine in and bolted up today... luckily, it looks like there will be clearance for the exhaust! The intake ports look as big as on an SSS head - is that normal? The head is marked U67 The ports on the intake manifold aren't as large as the ports on the cylinder head:

I picked up an L20B from toadx8u on my way home for the holidays - I'd planned on picking up a different engine, but that one had been sitting for 10 or 20 years, and I was able to hear toad's engine before he pulled it this morning. The engine fit perfectly into the fold-away compartment in the back of the minivan! I left home at 6:30am and finally got to Syracuse at 7:30pm. 600 miles of driving in one day. Tomorrow, I'll be dropping the engine into my car. ...The engine in my car now could be fixed, but I don't have much time for tinkering lately!!

Nah, that's a Nustad 017.

-though if the transmission is from a 200sx, it should be a 5-speed dogleg, I think.

Nice to see that it came with those plates... and a 4-speed!

Fiiiinally! He posted a thread here, and I think Ratsun's 710 contingent all tried to encourage him to take the plunge.

tbubar's car - he's posted it for sale on here a few times. It looks great for a northeastern car.

I'm preeeeety sure that I know which '74 710 in New Hampshire you're talking about, and I'm thinking that if you have the idea that you want to do some parts swapping, you might want to start out with a transmission swap - that way you can get rid of the automatic and make the car more fun to drive, and get an idea of what kind of work is involved in swapping parts for an old car.

I think its been repainted - it looks like it was a lighter color before (look where the little pull-tab on the fuel door is missing) Maybe even the same color as my 710, before the sun whupped it. The color does work really well for the car! Glad you are able to save this 710 from becoming one with the earth.

As the title says, I'm looking for a L20B long block or complete engine in good condition somewhere in the Northeast part of the country (somewhere between Brooklyn and Syracuse would be great!) Let me know if you have something that fits the bill!

I'm wondering - I hear a clattering kind of sound - more through the carbs, but since there aren't too many moving parts in the carb, could I be hearing a crapped-out valve seat? The sound started since I got to Syracuse a few days ago. Also, I had new hardened steel valve seats put into the head since the old bronze ones were beginning to sink. maybe one of them popped out?

I lined the crank pulley up with the TDC mark and checked the cam gear - the dash on the plate lined up perfectly with the cam dowel, and the gear is set at dowel hole #2. (My cam gear isn't as pretty as the one in the picture - I had to block the chain, unbolt the gear and pull it a bit forward to see the dash! ...next time it would be nice to get one of the Japanese timing kits...)

Looks like I'll be pulling the car into the garage again tonight to check out the chain. Thanks for the information!

Okay - got it running and adjusted the best I could. I hear some sort of clattering noise that I don't remember when I open the throttle, but other than that it sounds okay, and it doesn't bog down when going off idle like it did before. It sounds kinda like noisy valves. ...I adjusted my valves not too long ago, so I don't think that could be the reason.

Okay - the progress so far: I took out the plug for cylinder #1 (looked good, normal reddish deposits) TDC seems to be a bit off from this illustration that I found. Instead of this: It's more like this (but this could just be because it was difficult to find the middle between the point where the piston is moving up and when it starts to travel down): The distributor was aimed at plug #1 The vacuum advance moved when I sucked on the tube The oil level in the carbs was the same front and back, right between the marks. However, the carbs WERE out of sync - when I moved the throttle linkage, the front carburetor moved before the back carburetor. I synced-up the carb linkage, now I'm headed back to the garage to play with the Uni-Syn and the infernal mixture-adjusting nuts. Maybe the out-of sync carbs could be causing trouble?

Thanks for the information everyone! I'm just about to head out to the garage and get to the bottom of this problem. I'll let you know how it goes.

I'll do that today - I need to check and see if TDC on the pulley is the same as TDC for the piston.

I thought that the shims were only for heads that had major amounts of aluminum removed. Could it throw the timing marking that far off? I could install a set, but I sure wouldn't be looking forward to re-installing the cam towers afterward.