gumbyz13

Thanks for all the info guys, have a little more searching to do... My set-up is kind of odd. It was built to fit a 13" wheel and uses a 10.5" vented rotor. Wilwood has the Rotors available but no hats. They do have an undrilled blank that might work but I have been trying to track something down off the shelf. Thanks datrod...might have to take you up on that one. Appreciate the assistance.

GET OFF...Really. If you don't know what it is then why post (twice). Okay, I assumed since I was posting this in the brake section the term "Rotor Hat" was commonly known, sometimes also referred to as a Rotor Bell. My mistake, wasn't trying to be intentionally vague, but no need to be an ass about it. Rotor hat (bell) is used on a 2 piece rotor assembly. 4 lug rotor hat (103mm bolt pattern / 81 mm center bore) same as an S130 (280ZX) rotor bolt pattern - bolts onto the back of the hub. It has a .250" face and an offset of 1.125". (1.125" deep from back of face to rear mounting surface) The rotor bolts to the back of the rotor hat with a bolt pattern of 6 x 5.5. Hope this clears it up a little better.

Wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction...I am looking for a rotor hat for a custom brake set-up I have on my 510. Hat dimensions For an S130 hub type (103mm PCD / 81mm Center Bore) Hat Face: .250" Offset: 1.125" Rotor Bolt Circle: 6 x 5.50 One of my rotor hats was damaged and have not been able to find a replacement. Have checked Wilwood, Brembo, AP, BAER, and a few other random places with no luck so far. Any assistance greatly appreciated.

How about that, I am from Chicago and it came up with Chicago, Aurora, and Rockford...

Sunset Mihama Hotel And how about some Decotora

Historic Club Okinawa

My latest project...

Ecology in Oceanside, CA off the 76. L16 with what looked to be recent rebuilt 210 head with recently replaced timing set. Very little wear marks. All glass, all doors, driver fender. Underside was in awesome condition...damn shame to see it in there.

Thanks...as close as the fire was when I was heading out I really thought I would be returning to a pile of rubble. The distributor was a rebuilt unit I ordered through Autozone (Cardone). Need to check the warranty info on it.

Thanks for the assist guys...Couldn't get the car started so decided to just try swapping the distributor with an old one I had laying around. Fired right up, let her run for about 15 minutes...adjusted timing, balanced carbs, shut her down. Fired right back up. Running good right now. That distributor I took out was a rebuilt one I picked up not to long ago with maybe 500 miles on it. Would not have thought it would have crapped out so soon. Still have a few things to sort but should be driving in a few days. Looking forward to having it move under its own power again... Thanks for the help. On a side note, had a big ass fire out here this weekend and was evacuated. Came up quick and we got out as the fire was just about in the back yard. Fire Department kicked ass on the ground and in the air and saved all the houses. Down side, my 510 took a nice, red fire retardant shower. Little rough on the paint but considering the alternative it is fixable.

Yes, I keep the timing light on the coil wire while its running so I know when it cuts out. Measure voltage before and after to find difference. Have not found anything yet.

Thanks for the info guys. All power going to the proper places and all connections are solid. Checked everything numerous times trying to eliminate as much stuff as a potential problem. Dizzy has a separate ground as well. Also installed coil and module on friend's car to verify and they worked fine. Not a fuel delivery problem checked that one too. My next step is to tickle the undercarriage and see where that gets me... Not by choice...This has been a 4 month build and was just finally at the point where I could get her fired-up. Had hoped on having her done weeks ago just didn't happen. At least she looks good sitting still (for now).

Looking for some suggestions on an issue I am having. Having a starting problem with my 72 510 (L20B) that has me going in circles. Got the car running but it just shuts off. Sometimes it will run for a few seconds and then shut off and other times a few minutes. I originally thought it was an issue with the E12-80 module so swapped that out and still same issue. Traced it down to my coil not firing. Hooked up my timing light to the coil wire so I could watch what it was doing. Everything good while running and then it would just shut off like someone turned off the key. After it happens it will not re-fire right away and I need to let it sit. The last time it happened I grabbed a multi meter to check power to the coil and it is still getting a full 12 volts after it shuts off. Even when it will not start it is still getting voltage to the coil. A few things I have done already with same results Swapped coils (MSD balster 2 coil and stock coil) New coil wire Swapped E12-80 modules (new rotor and cap on distributor) Verified continuity on all fuses Checked Grounds (did not find any loose of the ones I could find) Checked wiring harness for loose connections (Wiring harness is pretty much stock with some of the wires replaced due to being old) What am I missing, Any thoughts? Would be nice to have this thing running so I can get it up to JCCS tomorrow. Thanks

Yeah man sorry to see her go...but looking forward to the next one.

I picked one up off Ebay for my 72 not too long ago. Worked great...

Great...Thanks man.

Great thanks...That would help out if you could post the picture. All the strut mods I have seen are a bit longer.

I just recently ordered struts from McMaster-Carr to do the hood conversion on my 72 and the ones I received were a bit short (5.5 inches). Those are the ones for the part number listed on here in the search. Looking to see if anyone can give me the overall (extended length) of the correct struts so I can re-order? OR I know the ones I have seen on a few 510s were a bit longer but if these will work anyone have a picture of the correct mounting? Thanks

It sad when 100¥ to the dollar is good. It does make for the quick conversion though.

I like the "LOOK BAD ASS" plan...

#1 and 3

Found this one on the side of the road....couldn't believe someone tossed it away. Works great...

Saw it last night, there was a pretty good showing of cars out at the drive-in for the movie. Pretty good twist there at the end. Setting up for number 7, Tokyo drift should be number 6 now right (plot order). They are good for the entertainment value. I saw that Jason Stathom was supposed to be Shaw's brother.... My Ford Escort was not quite as cool as that one.

Interested in getting a vendor space. (shot you a text)