Stupid_fast

woo ! Yes! more options to look into. :)

True solution get a bigger rear end... Ford 7.5 shortened is a nice option ... some toyota truck ? nissan ? GM? Stronger rear end if you're popping H150's.

If you don't know why you're blowing diffs drifting a Datsun wagon. Get a 240sx.

Hey I actually made it out this month LOL

I have tire chocks and a stock jack... No tool bag though. What!!! All this time I was wondering what that strap was for !!! I always was annoyed there was no good place to store the chocks! I'm going to put them in properly now.

Had an old school (DATSUN) tuner set my idle. He sat there for a minute with a screwdriver with his ear up to the carbs. 11.5:1. Idle around ~850-1000rpm depending on the carb. On my 32/36 I let it idle at 1100 with 490 lift. I usually set mine around 12:1-13:1. Big cam has low vacuum at idle, he said leave it rich to prevent pinging. Mine doesn't matter cause stock compression and 91 california mix.

Float height doesn't really matter afterall... has barely any effect on mixtures. Set to 6mm factory and leave it... Up to #25 pilot jets pop at cruise nearly gone but still there. More adjustments are needed for this setup. I suspect needle profile has a lot to do with my low end rich problems.

Seems i forgot to tighten one of the float bowl drain plugs on my last tuning run ... found them at 2wheelpros for $6.29 4KP-14191-00-00 FLOAT BOWL DRAIN SCREW PLUG you can find parts diagrams here for the YZF-R1 carburetor http://www.yamahapartspitstop.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043f74f8700209bc78e18c/carburetor

AP1 has an additional 1.160:1 gear reduction in the box giving a effective final drive of 4.756 with 4.10 rear end. AP2 box has a 1.208 reduction with 0.763 6th gear turning ~3800rpm at 70mph with stock 4.10 and 235-50-16's.

I disagree. S2000 already has gear reduction in the transmission, effective final drive is already shorter than the diff gearing. My dad has an AP1 w/ AP2 2.2 liter stock 4.10 rear end that already revs quick through the gears. Honestly I think shorter gearing would hurt acceleration in such a light car. your going from a 2750lb car to a ~2150lb car. Already spins 3800rpm at 70 with stock diff with the 0.810 6th gear. Plus 510's usually using shorter sidewall tires. Depends on what OP is going to use it for too. On a hillclimb car or short track car it may be beneficial to have shorter gearing, but I really don't see any practical or street situation where you'd ever want shorter than stock. It'd just rev too quick.

Yay! Preferably after October, then it can be legal. :baby: Note for the thread- my car was running way lean ... I am up to 210 main jets and it still lean L20b with .490 cam. Finishing the tune this weekend.

You're doing it wrong. $39.31 shipped ordered on 2/10/14 http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-o-ring-4xv-14562-00-00-part.html 4XV-14562-00-00 Interesting- when I ordered mine on 3/23/13 it was $33.95 shipped.

AP1 has a 1.160 primary gear reduction in the gearbox. Rear end is a 4.10. 510 weighs ~900lb less. 3.90's should be good.

remove the brake booster or run vacuum balance thingy across all four runners.

I run it open PCV. works fine. spits oil out the crank case at high RPM though. (above 6k) Set up a catch can and route the exit to air filter box so the majority of vapor gets sucked back into the engine.

How did you hold the velocity stacks on? Mine have just rubber hose around them and its hardly ideal... they usually fall off when I pull the filter.

What kind of fuel pump setups have been tested with these carbs ?? Anyone running an aftermarket fuel pump or even stock datsun pump on these? Curious if anyone's tried a return line setup. Mine's just running a stock R1 pump, trying to find something to advise to my friend who is doing R1's on his KA.

can you drag frame without notching the frame rails? Er, I mean it looks awesome! :D

then search through it. Send an email to Steve and ask. boggbrothersltd@btconnect.com

I'm going to try this solution to my lean surge/popping at cruise ... This may be the answer I was looking for. Also for the guys who have their needles thrown way off to get the cruise mixture correct... you're doing it wrong !!! http://factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_pilot%20jet,%20affect%20of%20size%20on%20idle%20and%20cruise.html

Simple answer is NO. NWC and WC T5's don't mix apparantly. there is a lot of discussion about it on Z forums. Takes a lot of effort. You can have a good gear shop drop a closer ratio mustang(or similar) gearset into it, but it isn't cheap and you end up with the ratios of a CR ZX box with a taller 5th. The ZX T5 is great on the lower revving L28ET with 3.54 rear end, but the gear spread is a bit much for any higher rpm peak power N/A motor.

Yeah, the ZX box gets rid of that 2-3 gap. It is getting harder to find the 80-83 box however. If you can swap the gears go ahead, I'm just pointing out the CR ZX box already has what you're trying to get.

Close ratio box for your truck ???? And you don't care about 5th? Why? Rock climbing ? Just get a stock 81-83 ZX BOX. 3.062 1.858 1.308 1.0 0.745 < can swap 5th for 0.864 I believe ...

it feels fine. Pedal feel is a bit more soft than roadster PP. Grabs about the same. Drove around a bit to get it seated nicely to the disc... did a little clutch kick and it grabbed just fine. I'll update in a few months after its completely broken in and I have some skid pad time.

I've been waiting too, I haven't touched my car in weeks. They're putting it in today. just got a call, apparently the slave cyl seal is leaking too. Using old 510 disc, its only got 10k miles on it no point to replace it. http://clutchnet.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.v2.tpl&product_id=16930&category_id=7563&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=140