RLJ

Mike, Can you identify this distributor: D4K8-08, 22100 B9802 Also this one: D4A2-01 Can’t find any other numbers on this one. 312 Posted pictures below.

Yes it has the return spring. Good point, thanks.

Good call Mike. Was always checking the slave cylinder adjustment and never looked at the pedal to master cylinder adjustment. Previous owners mechanic had the pedal adjusted so it was always engaging the master cylinder at least 1/4”! Adjusted the pedal correctly, then bled the slave to make sure it was at the bottom of its bore. Then adjusted the slave rod for proper play and everything is great. Drove the car for a bit and clutch adjustment stayed where it’s supposed to be. Thanks Mike for the good advise to check the pedal adjustment.

Can’t figure this one out. 1972 510 with an L20b and a Z five speed. Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are relatively new. Has slave cylinder with the adjustable rod. Will adjust the clutch rod per service manual and everything works fine. After driving about ten to fifteen miles the clutch goes out of adjustment and disengages too much. You can hear it on the diaphragm fingers and shifting will become stiff. After this happens if you don’t push the clutch all the way to the floor the noise will go away and shifting will be fine. Will readjust the slave cylinder rod shortening it and it will be correct. Lasts for a while then the same thing will happen and have to shorten the rod more. Have done this a few times now and still repeats. Am I doing something wrong with the adjustment? Did it per the service manual. It seems like the rod length increases (it doesn’t, lock nut for adjustment is tight) or the hydraulics start increasing like the slave piston is now in a different place. The clutch seems fine. Thinking it’s more of a hydraulics issue but can’t figure out what. Any ideas?

Power steering fluid is pretty much ATF. I used ATF with some 20 weight fork oil mixed. Started with nothing, way to lean. Went to Marvel Mystery Oil, better but still to lean. Went to ATF, better still but still a little hesitation of idle. Mixed some 20 weight fork oil and throttle response and drivability is good. Observations. The more modified the engine is with longer duration cam and less manifold vacuum at idle, the thinner the fluid all the way to no fluid. The more stock the engine with higher manifold vacuum at idle, the thicker the fluid.

I’ll post up what I find upon disassembly. Hoping it’s only bored to 87mm. 4mm is a lot to be removed from a cylinder to make the 89mm bore. If it’s out to 89mm bore I’ll always be worried about the cylinders and how much meat is left in them since it’s an L20b block. Was told it has VG30 pistons which are 87mm. Thinking the pistons are below top of the block with the 5-3/4” rods. Won’t know for sure until disassembled. If just needed to buy longer rods and be able to modify the VG30 pistons to work with the longer rod shouldn’t be to crazy expensive.

Mike, Okay, the 5-3/4” rod is actually 5.744”. It’s easier to call it a 5-3/4” rod. The 6” rod is actually 6.004”. Still easier to call it a 6” rod. As far as needing a specially made piston you’re probably correct and would probably be best. VG30 piston would be the closest and probably not enough thickness in the top of the piston to machine it down enough to make it work for the longer stroke. Have to disagree with you, to a degree, on the piston speed statement and that the rod length doesn’t affect it. For mean(average) piston speed your statement is true, but it’s an average. At TDC the piston isn’t moving as it starts going down it is accelerating all the way to the 90 degree point of crank rotation. Then it is decelerating until it gets to BDC. The shorter rod is going to accelerate and decelerate faster than the longer rod. This start and stop is inertia and a longer rod softens it. Engine builders have known this and practiced it for decades. The other advantage of the longer rod is longer dwell time at TDC and BDC. Cam grinders take advantage of this fact. Will see what I end up doing as custom made pistons and possibly rods aren’t cheap!

Purchased from a Sacramento 510 enthusiast. Was told it was a copy of Rebello build. As I said previously for what ever that’s worth. Yes it’s going into a 510 wagon. Will be disassembling it soon. Not sure what the bore is. Appears to be a Z22 crank by measuring stroke. Was told 5-3/4” rods. Was told by a seasoned respectable Datsun engine builder that the 5-3/4 rod and its relative piston speeds created a unique vibration. Not a balance vibration. The 6” rod was a nice smooth set up. Maybe you can confirm this.

Thanks Matt, Don’t think Marvel Mystery Oil was the factory recommended fluid. Have read where it is commonly used by people though. Just read in an L24 factory engine service manual that 20 weight motor oil was used. Noted that never use 30 weight. Wonder if it was the same recommendation for SSS engines. The dampening oil viscosity is one of the tuning tools for the SU carburetors. It can range from no oil to most any viscosity oil.

What dampening fluid was used and recommended by Datsun on stock SSS engines with the Hitachi SU carburetors? Was it the same for the Z cars?

Great. Now to find them! Thanks again.

If you’re not running the heater and you have a hose going like the op picture put a 5/8” plug in that hose. Like Mike pointed out if the hose isn’t plugged your pumping hot water into to motor inlet for water making things hotter in hot weather. I cut a 5/8” bolt and stuck it in the hose at the head fitting. Added a clamp where the plug is to hold it in place.

Thanks guy’s great information. Matt, Which 6” rods were used for a 2.2 long rod motor? What pistons to get the different wrist pin height. Love your last comment about the cobwebs, etc. I can relate!

Never thought of that. Makes perfect sense. Going to put a plug in mine.

Thank you Matt. Engine is supposed to be a Rebello “clone” for whatever that’s worth. What are the better more modern cams now? Going to run with 44mm Datsun SU’s. It’s a 2.2 build on an L20b block. Pretty sure it has 5-3/4” rods. Thinking of changing it out to 6” rods before installing it in the car. Thanks Mike. From what I’ve been told by a couple of cam grinders who regrind L cams the stock cams were 190-200 @ .050 lift. The factory duration numbers were at .010-.015 lift. ???

Bought an engine with this cam in it. Does anybody recognize these numbers on the back of the cam? Engraved in: M# 227C-10 There is a B stamped in also and looks like it was stamped after the engraving. Base circle diameter is 1.188, lobe is 1.502, making cam lift .314 X 1.5(?)rocker giving .471 valve lift. Trying to determine if it’s to much cam for street driving

Nice! With a vintage Yamaha DT1 or CT1 to play with once you get there.

Loctite 404

O-ring adhesive? Used for making your own custom o-rings.

Agree, and not a parking brake by activating the hydraulic fluid to the calipers.

Part of the equation is your age. When I was much younger with a young family I drove a standard cab 620 and it worked just fine. At the time I was 6’-3” tall and 195 pounds. Sat in a King cab back then and it had more leg room. Now much older and stiffer in all the wrong places, I don’t think so. Short trips probably okay but a long ones? Been looking for another 620 and I’m in a dilemma. The king cab would be my choice but they came out after 1975, which means biannual smog test and requirements here. Other then the smog issue, King cab

Amazon has them, probably not for long!

Posted one minute ago. Went to their site to purchase, Sold Out! That was fast!

I agree 100%. Did a $200.00 order and it had over $100.00 in shipping from six different locations! Needed to return some stuff and it was the same deal. Had to go back to each origin location so separate shipping charge for each one! Would have to be the last resource for me to go down that road again.