RLJ

More education,Thanks If you could find the input drive gear and counter driven gear to swap out could create different transmissions. Not going to be to feasible to find but does make for interesting reading and thinking. Counted the input drive gear on mine again. Actually is a 22 so it’s the mid ratio box. Shouldn’t count things like that early in the morning before coffee! Do you know the part number for the oil catch trough that’s in the steel mid plate?

Think maybe error in the phone number. Searched the company name and found this number 360-653-2700. Called it and left a message.

Might be reading to much into what your saying. Can the input shaft gear unit and driven gear on the countershaft be switched out to change from wide to mid to close ratio transmission?

yenpit, is that information for the wiring diagrams current? I called the number and it’s disconnected.

Well there you go, everyday is an education! Thank you for clarifying! So between the wide and mid ratio transmissions how much difference in ratio are the other gears? Pretty sure 4th would still be 1:1. What about 2nd, 3rd and 5th? Is the B transmission the only one that used the fiber synchro for 5th? Is that a completely different synchro assembly or can you substitute a brass synchro for the fiber.

Ok so I’m confused. Thought all 280Z with a five speed were wide ratio transmissions. Then later 280ZX we’re close ratio. If I’m reading what you’re saying correctly only one year and one vehicle was a wide ratio 5 speed meaning it was somewhat rare? What are all the Z transmissions? Are the not considered a wide ratio? The tooth count you referenced is 21/32 on my transmission.

Research and reading. I read it on the Internet so it must be right :-). Multiple resources said the same thing about close ratio and wide ratio referencing the points I made above. Drove the car before removing for noise and it didn’t feel like a close ratio box.

Short shifter ears with pin low. Speedometer drive hold down screw on top. Dust shield for driveshaft yoke.

Not a dogleg. Not a short tail. Standard H pattern and speedo on right. All apart now so tough for a picture. Wide ratio box. Figured it would be easier for ordering parts if I could identify it as an A,B or C., depending on the parts guy I get and how receptive and knowledgeable he is.

My five speed has number 7426580 stamped in the top area of the bell housing. Mike can you identify it please. 71a, 71b or 71c?

Regarding removing the tapered pin. After inspecting came up with this idea. In the earlier style case, measure and locate where the pin is. Drill a hole in the case that allows a straight shot to tap out the tapered pin. Thread the hole you drilled for a tapered plug to thread in. This only needs disassembly to replace the o ring and seal in the shift tube. Once out believe you need to remove the plug at the end of the shift tube so the shift rod can be removed and oil seal replaced. Since mine wasn’t leaking and they’re at the top of the transmission minimizing oil cumulation, I’m electing not to replace them.

Curious what you’re planning to power that you need a 180 amp alternator?

Actually it’s the center ball bearing that’s in the intermediate steel plate. Datzenmike, I think You called it correctly as far as highest torque multiplication in first and second. Made noise in neutral with clutch out and driving in first and second.

Pulled the trans apart today. Countershaft rear ball bearing is shot. Cage is gone and some balls also. Looks like I caught it before mass destruction. Thinking because it’s the lowest bearing in the case debris just dropped down and magnet in drain plug probably caught most of it. Another thing PO never mentioned when he said he had just changed the trans oil. Everything else looks pretty good. Going to replace all bearings, seals, and synchros. Need to order parts.

Not trying to hijack thread. Just curious. Posts have said that growling noise indicates countershaft bearings going out. Meaning growling all the time in all gears? Growling in neutral with clutch out, growling in 1st and 2nd but quiet in 3rd, 4th and fifth. Does that mean one countershaft end bearing worn out but not the other?

It had a 2” and 3” spacer stacked for a total of 5” lowered. Pulled the 3” one out and trying it at 2” lowered. Can switch them if I decide to go to 3” lowered

Just realized PO of my wagon removed the rear axle rubber bump stops that are held in place by the u bolts. It was lowered 5” and guessing there was no room for them with the rear lowered that much. What are others doing with the rubber bump stops on there wagons when lowered? Completely removing them? Cutting them down? Going to set mine up 2”-3” lower in the rear and would like to have some kind of rubber stop. Anybody have a factory set there not using?

But won’t the drop extension just go in a straight line when tensioned, like in an accident, and be the same as if there was no drop extension? Seems it would have to be rigid and don’t think it could be made rigid enough to hold the dropped position. I could be missing something though in my thinking. Understand your point on the B pillar mount strength. Not sure how much more strength the roof mount has. I think either would get seriously deformed with a good load but would serve there purpose for holding the belt mount. Even if the roof mount has more strength don't think having the belt against my neck in an accident would have a good outcome. Agree that we have these cars for fun and they definitely are nowhere’s near today’s safety standards. Would like to be held in place in case of an accident though.

Saw those magnetic door fuel fills and considering one. Did that set up in the picture work without filling problems? Looks like the nozzle should go in easy and not have any problem with fueling? How was the fit of the nozzle and vapor rubber on the nozzle going in through the door of the fuel fill?

Duncan, Thanks to KELMO I’ve been reading your build thread and enjoying it. Lots of good info there. Just got to about page 30 and read you had NOS for the fill neck and molded plastic hose part. Now see that you eventually went to a relocated fuel fill. The PO of my car had a CF Express going on with the fill neck. Made a mess when getting fuel and always smelled gas. Way to dangerous to my taste! Already using stuff from tanks, inc. Hoping to come up with a better fill neck idea to make fueling easier and less messy. Might have to clearance the inside panel for a better fill neck to work with the modern fuel nozzle. Really don’t want to have the fill inside the cargo area but have seen others do that besides you. Also still considering a fuel door set up either from a 510 sedan or aftermarket. Figured other Wagon owners have had to deal with this before me and might save from buying a bunch of wrong parts. Do you think the stock fill neck was the main problem when fueling? Or the design past the fuel neck going into the tank was also a problem causing fuel back up and spit out? Thanks. Now back to reading your build thread.

Looks like the B pillar is best. The stock mount in the ceiling puts the edge of the belt right at my neck. Don’t think that would be to good in an accident!

What have others done to deal with fuel fill parts no longer available for the wagon? Anybody come up with improvements to the stock configuration? I've seen tank fills put in the floor of the cargo area. Would prefer to keep it all on the outside. Any body have the screw in panel for the floor to cover the sending unit on a stock tank?

yenpit, Good ideas. The lower mount point on the B Pillar is better for height but is further forward. My seat is all the way back when driving and it puts the pillar even with or ahead of my chest. Going to mock up and see which position is best once I have the seat belts in hand. Thanks for the help

yenpit, Just saw your post. Thanks for the information. I’ve been wondering about the same thing you’re pointing out. Pulled a string from the mounting point to the lap point and think it will be ok. Won’t know for sure until I go to install belts. Have seen belts with that extension to lower mounting point. Wondered with it being cloth won’t it just take the same line and put the belt in the same location when activated and made tight?

Thanks LS_Wagon. My wagon already had a new headliner and couldn’t find an anchor location by feel. Your pictures allowed me to zone in on the location and I think I’ve found it. Now to make a bold cut in the new headliner!