metalmonkey47

That's all you aussies do. Pretty sure you guys couldn't figure out how to operate a car if it didn't involve hangin the bird out the window while you're mashing your Chevy V8 powered import.

Okay just to make it more clear, would not go into gear. HOWEVER... I figured it out and fixed another problem at the same time. Pulled the slave and master off, and ran by the store to swap em just to appease the little monkey in the back of my head telling em to do it... grabbed the new master and realized the fucking pushrod on the new one was 1 1/2'' LONGER then the one on the old one. That explains why before on the uld unit, the adjustment was all the way out. not to mention, the screw on the bottom side that I believe is there for assembly, changed from weak aluminum to zinc plated steel. I fucking HATE Autozone parts. I wish my Napa near my house didn't close down so I could buy my parts from somewhere I trust. In the 240z :P I'm smarter then mating the wrong clutches to the car.

My only guess is that one of the two parts in the hydraulic system wasn't working very well before... and because the clutch was worn to the rivets it slipped too much to notice. Now that there's a thicker, 'grabbier' disk in there, it would require more movement of the collar to engage the clutch all the way... Would I be correct in thinking that?

Yeah, literally just a textbook, quick in-out swap. We double checked everything before it went back together. Didn't even remove the collar from the shaft. The thing that gets me is the inch of pedal play before the slave cylinder moves. I had everything adjusted out as far as possible before and it was hardly working.

Correct. I just re-bled the master, and slave. Got a little air out but still no luck. There's about an inch of play in the pedal before the pushrod on the slave moves... wonder if that's enough to fuck me over. Thinking about running to the store and grabbing two new ones and giving them a try. i wonder if the seals have started to seep a little.

Just think Skib, this could be you!

Slapped the truck 225mm clutch in the 240z, PP was a different height so I left the stocker in there for the time being. The clutch disk looked literally identical. Now the fucker won't get into gear. Slave and Master are less then 3 months old, hose is in good shape. I 'seem' to be getting full movement out of the clutch arm, but hey a brother can be wrong.... I have a very small amount of 'dead' pedal, maybe an inch or so (meaning, for that much of the pedal, I get no movement of the pushrod) even with both the master and slave adjustments fully extended. I've bled 2 reservoirs worth of fluid through the system and gotten NO air. Suggestions?

EDIT.... NVM this post.

Got it. Turns out the tensioner had popped ever so slightly out of place, and hung up on the slack side guide. I'm working on the motor right now. The motor is getting some seriously needed maintenance. Guess that's the good way of looking at it.. I thought I'd be able to get it without pulling the front cover, but it was so cockeyed out of place there was no chance.

No luck. You can't actually see any evidence that the tensioner is out at all. The bolt isn't the issue. There's no slack in the chain, but the tensioner was blocked when it came apartml.

Hey guys, so after slapping my new head on my L24, I noticed the chain was SUPEr tight (no slack) after re-installing the top sprocket. Started her up and it's whining bad. It was installed the same way it came apart, so I don't know what I'm missing. And yes, I did block the tensioner before I started, and it's still in place.

Thanks Mike! I'll get back to you tomorrow. It's not anything like the picture. I actually have one of the ones you're showing in my back yard that I believe came off of a 521. However, my 4 speed looks identical to the 71B I'm so used to, that's why I asked the question. Fill plug is on the passenger side by the reverse light switch, I'll get you a measurement and pictures when i pull it. I actually had a '72 Z car trans in my truck after blowing the truck 4 speed up, and this looks identical. Last question for now, did the pressure plates between the 240Z and trucks have a different finger height? I'm trying to decide if this dang truck 225mm is going to match my throwout bearing collar.. on the 240z pressure plate. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when i rip this transmission out.

Kinda related hope you don't mind me throwing this question out OP, anyone have a suggestion for getting one loose while on an engine stand with no head?

Both should be M8x1.25 make sure ya get lock washers and snug em down tight.

Does an L16 even generate enough exhaust pressure to spool two turbos? I imagine the lag would have to be WILD, unless it was a compound setup like the 2JZ or RB.

Thanks! That helps a lot. Pretty sure the PP rating is the same, The kits just have different release bearings. 240 bearing comes with the collar, whereas the truck release bearing does not. The 'monkey motion' shifter that you're referring to is the cup shaped shifter at the rear of the trans? (Best way I know to explain it)

I've asked this question a few times but never got a direct/clear answer. I'm ripping the head/trans out of my 240Z in a few days to replace the shot head with my rebuilt head, and figured at the same time, I'll get the exhaust out of the way and knock out the butchered clutch. I'm tossing a spare clutch in for the time being, since I'll be spending the real money when i'm done building my L28, just want to clarify and make sure what I have is right. Truck and 240Z BOTH share 225mm clutches, both use the same spline, and PP bolt pattern correct? Also, 240z should have a 6-bolt flywheel? Last but not least, I was told the Series 1 did NOT have a long tail 4 speed, but I have not been able to confirm that. D mike or any other Ratsuners, anyone know exactly what trans model# would be in the Series 1 Z's? Gotta order input/output seals for the gearbox while it's out. Ill have to measure the trans tomorrow, but what 'should' I have?

That's all? Dang Mike, we need to light a fire under your ass!

You need to do a REAL compression test. Go to Autozone and rent a compression tester. $40, OEM part number: 27138 Do TWO compression tests. The first one will be a 'dry' test. Test it as is with the motor hot. Second compression test add about a table spoon (maybe less) of motor oil. If the rings are leaking, the compression reading will shoot up quite far. The oil will help seal the rings for the compression test. Another option is finding a local shop that does a leakdown test and let them dig into it. Not difficult, but often times you can pay a good shop 1 hour labor to do a leakdown and come out cheaper then buying the tools to do a proper leakdown test.

bow chicka wow wow. Sorry to hear man. Hope it comes home.

So cool! Gonna share the link on Ratsun FB and try to get ya some sales.

I run 75w-140 in my R180, don't imagine that your R200 will use anything different.

I was gonna save this for my build thread butttt

.. Why would you take your 9 year old to a gun range to shoot an Uzi...... Start em small. .22 rifle or BB gun... Teach the big kids to handle the big guns.