metalmonkey47

Ran a 8 gauge ground from dizzy base to intake manifold. No difference. Gonna clean the main ground up anyways though. Weird problem. EDIT: Nope still doesn't run. Not even a single fart out the exhaust.

http://vancouver.en....2619410616.html Now that you've read that, come help me in my other thread

Nope, still no start. Tried on two coils. 12V on both sides of coil with IGN on. According to the wiring diagram, NOT correct. One is supposed to ground with condenser?? So how do I have 12V on the negative??? EDIT: I unhooked the - post on the coil and reads 13.3V @ the negative terminal.

Very weak spark coming from the coil. Brand new coil, so I'm guessing it's coincidence that its not firing. Gonna swap on the spare and start it. Wish me luck

Mike, I think you have the wrong wiring diagram. Mine's a '76. Here's my wiring @ coil. I have a heavier gauge black/red coming to a 3 way connector. Theres a red/black there, but it turns to blue/black and runs to ballast resistor (see pic above)

12V into ballast resistor, and 6V @ the coil. Ballast resistor is HOT! Measured 130 degrees. Far from correct. Replace? I have a spare MSD .8ohm resistor.

New coil, condenser, plugs, wires, and still no start. I have spark at the points, but still not at the plugs Just to confirm, blue = + and white = - on coil?

^^ That's what I used. Worked great too. I'm gonna find some free time one of these days to take it to someone.

Do want!!!! I'll call you ASAP in the next few days when I'm not busy. I'm headed off to work in a min

Gonna ignore the lug nutz right now. I'll lulz later. I dropped the tank and I found 4 pin holes on the seam on both sides. Gonna clean it up and JB weld that mofo. They were tiny holes, but enough to piss me off. Oics when I'm lazy later

Thanks Mike! What I'm seeing now is that it doesn't appear to be a crack or any rust. The tank seems to be in good condition. Theres no obvious signs of damage, so I'm betting it's a line above where I can't see. It wasn't leaking when I picked it up, but it started leaking after I filled it up. Highlighted below are the areas I've narrowed down the leak. The arrow points to where it was dripping, but after stuffing a rag where the red is highlighted and wiping the tank clean, I have no more drips so I can only assume the leak is up from there and running down hill to the lowest points.

also, if anyone has a picture from the top of a 620 tank, that would help me a ton.

Well, when I looked at the carb, it was hard to see, so I'm not 100% about it yet. Either way, I went ahead and ordered a new kit that I'm picking up later today along with an Accel OEM style coil. I put in new plugs earlier because I found the previous ones were black and probably not helping (if anything, they WERE the problem) and broke a wire putting it back on. The wires were a super cheap set of Beck/Arnley wires and fell apart, so I'm going to slap on some new wires in an hour or so when I have a ride to the parts store to get 'em. Until then, I'm working on a fuel tank leak that's a PITA!

Also does anyone have a diagram of the tank? Fuel lines and all? I have one for a '78, but it appears to be a different design.

On '76 620. I have a steady drip that I noticed this morning from the tank at both sides towards the front on the lip. It's not a broken or disconnected line on top of the tank, or fuel filler neck (my first thought. I went ahead and replaced all the rubber hose's. Theres no cracks or holes. Are there any lines on the sides behind the brackets that bolt to the lip? Also, is there any kind of seam at that lip that can potentially leak? I'll get you guys a few pictures so you can see what I'm working with. It rained all night, so I'm trying to dry things up. Its crazy hard to find the leak with water dripping off everything.

Found two yesterday coincidentally when i stopped at the grocery store on the way to pick up the 620.

Congrats!! I knew at some point it would get to a point that the numbers would rise My 210 blew all kinds of smoke after I did headgasket the first time. Compression was around 50PSI. Eventually, all settled about 130 after driving. Some take longer then others. I think you should be fine

bawse like!

Step 1, open it up and note your jet sizes. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_DGV_Tuning ^^That page lists corrects jets etc for your application. Order the correct jet kit from Racetep http://www.racetep.com/webcarb.html

I'm sure that it's TONS simple here. I think it's just stupid that I have this crazy problem. I've been through everything short of swapping dizzys and carbs. I pulled the plugs, and they were full of crap even though they were brand new. (Had lots of crappy gas in it when it sat) I swapped the coil with a spare I have and it still won't run right. I'm just going to swap coils tomorrow anyways with a new one and see what It does. Also have a condenser coming and carb kit. I think at the same time, I'll pick up some new plugs and see how it runs. Sucks that I just got it and already have to tear it down :( I also found that the gas tank is leaking a bit. Haven't found where yet.

Whelp, I would check timing but now it's not running at all. Dizzy agrees timing is at least close. Valve lash is correct and cam timing. Verified point gap as well @ .20 As far as carb, it actually doesn't appear to be giving any fuel when the accelerator pump is pressed. I pulled it out to inspect and looked brand new. Sealed nice in the carb too. The sight glass verifys a full float bowl. I can spray starter fluid in the carb and it still won't fire, so I'm wondering if I have a combo of problems. Gonna go take a brake and eat some food. I'll be back at this in a few minuets.

click for video