airedout

I actually just got a lead on a KA24e swap, but if thats a no go ill give you a shout

For the windsheild check out pilkington classics. I got mine from there. Nothing beats a brand new windshield. Even a nice used one always has pits, unless its from a truck with like 5000 original miles.

That dash looks firmiliar.......... Probably because its sitting in my garage!!!!!!!! :D

Would you ship it?????? Id be interested

The 59 and 60 are the same dash. Impalas only changed minor cosmetics between the 59 and 60 year (trim mostly)

The dash is 59 and 60 impala. I really like the look of the dash, but if you look closely you will see this dash swap is very, very common. I know of at least 5 trucks that are finished with that same dash, and about 15-20 that are being built with that dash. Since its already a datsun, which is different, I think they should have used something a little less common in the scene. That 620 is still badass though!!!

He never sold the green 521 on ebay, thats still the same owner trying to sell it on craigslist. He wants way to much for it!!!

Looks good!!!!!!! Deff always changing. Do your 4 link bars have nuts welded to the end of them???????

If you run into problems you can always get a ball joint remer and run a power performance s10 ball joint (highest movement out of any standard balljoint), or run uni balls. I really dont think your going to be running a huge wheel and tire on a datsun so i wouldnt imagine your going to run into problems. Ive only maxed balljoints or uniballs with wheels over 22", which is way to big for a datsun.

Not always true. With a large enough wheel and tire combo, its very easy to run any ball joints to their max. With king pins there is no max, only limited by the arms and their mounting points.

If the lower and upper arms were longer kingpins would actually be a much better answer for the airbag guys. Its nice to no have to worry about ball joints binding up!

When i saw it, it didnt have an engine.

No, not really. Helium is expensive compared to nitro. But if you want super fast, run helium.

Cool!!!!!!! I cant wait to see some progress on this bad boy!!!!!!

Good to see you on here, cant wait to see the build!!!!!

Thats actually helium, it transfers faster than nitrogen. Ive seen that truck before, and if i remember correctly they are using four 1 inch valves at each corner (2 fills 2 dumps). That things just insane.

That truck was pretty nice, but it was a 20 footer for sure. I saw it in person at the Year One Chip Foose charity show when we were showing there. The wheels are 18's front 20's back. The paint looked like poo, macco quality, and it had dings and dents throughout. Its kind of amazing what the camera doesnt see. He said he was trying to keep it original, but i think he was just cheap. Anyone catch what he sold it for?????????

Diff tire sizes probably. Plus the 620 arms are wider than the 521 arms right??????? Not sure on that one, but im guessing if you fit a 2600 in there, theres gotta be more room. I killed myself getting a 2500 in mine. If i had just a little more room i could get some more lift, but im limited by the bag hitting the kingpin.

My tire is equivalent to a 185/75/14: Laid: Full lift: Now imagine that laid out and lifted pic 5 1/2 inches lower. With a stock rim, you would probably be able to get away with running a short tire, just because of the width of the wheel and tire combo. But riding around maxxed out on the up stops would be like riding a bull thats pissed off. Plus the stock wheel and tires dont do much for me The way im talking about is not cost effective, and deff no longer all datsun parts. But to me it is the most logical, and most drivable way to do what your talking about. I will love to see progress pics as you go along, which ever way you plan on doing it.

You will need to narrow the front frame section a good amount too. Remember to take that in to consideration.

If your going to lay the 2x4 on its side, you may as well use 2x3. Having that extra inch makes no difference in strength, just adds weight. I personally would never use 2x4 or 2x4 on its side, only vertical. The 2x3 just gets laid in the bottom of the exsisting rail. You cut a window out of one side, the lay it in the bottom, weld it to the exsisting rail, then cut off the top, then lower the body mounts (also known as a stock floor body drop). You can always use the stock back half, but i would be planning on building my own. Bed mounts arent a problem, since you will probably just be using the outer bed panels by the time you get eveything out of the way. But this only gains you 1 inch, so you end up having to channel the cab, or raise the floor. Plus remember, you will need to change the front clip before any of this. Doored you will never get near enough lift to actually drive it with the original 521 suspension. You might as well build a frame table and build a full frame.

I think a 17 might go, but it would deff have to have a rubberband tire on it.

I am planning on replacing the rails with 2x3x3/16 under the cab (b/c the factory rails are just about 4 inches tall, about an inch gain), and dropping the body mounts about 1 and 1/2 inches (pretty much as much as i can, one of those inches is b/c the rail is shorter). Then i was going to raise the floor as much as i needed to lay the rocker (more than likely have to raise the tranny tunnel a little too b/c of the rail change). This is my plan, im sure it might change as i go along, but i hope to only lose 2 inches or less of headroom in the cab. If your planning on dooring the truck though, i imagine you will lose 3-5 inches of headroom (I hope Ice is short!!!! :D )

I did some measuring today, it doesnt look like a 18 w/ a 215/35/18 will clear the hood if its doored. To the rocker the tire would just about be on the hood, probably touching it b/c of the negative camber. This was just one of the things i was going to figure as i body drop my next one. Its going to take roughly a 3 inch BD to get down to down to flat rocker (removed pinch). To goto the door its about 5 and a 1/2.

1. im not really that sure seeing as i havent gotten the bed back on yet. It looks like it is going to be very close, if not just barely touching right in the inset bodyline. (i have thought of a few ways to cheat this if its touching. Space out the bedsides just a touch if its barley touching. Mill 1/4 off the back of the wheels. Flare slightly as a last resort) 2. Deff no, the top of my tire is going to hit right about the middle of the bodyline (un body dropped) 3. If your planning on dooring your truck, you will deff need a diff front clip to achieve the lift you want. 4. Around an inch or a little less. You see theres the problem with the truck being 6x5.5, wheel selection is crap. Right now im running an 8 inch wheels with a 5.5 inch backspacing, when i really want a 7 inch wheel with 5.5 inch backspacing. But in 6x5.5 it is almost impossible to find a 7 inch wheel thats not billet ($$$$). If your wanting to door a 521, your going to need a 7 inch wheel to clear the bedsides, and even that might not be enough. Theres a very good chance that you will have to narrow the axle and the rear frame section too. On my truck im planning on extending the bedsides to meet the rockers to give it a finished look, and i will also be doing this on my next 521 project that will be bodydropped. The body drop project will have a toyo clip, and an rx7 rear (camber helps alot to clear big wheels to the bedside).