Braden

who would want to drain a trannjy that would be sittign for a long period of time anyways??? wtf you should get that cattle tool off of no country for old men and give the walking rectum a hole, right behind his ear!!!

im in ky, can you make a drive up here? i jusy pulled my l20b with 105,000 on the clock, runs great but could use some valve stem seals? maybe a little freshen up? i can do this for you as well

por -15 engine enamels

the thrush turbo was ok. a tad too quiet for me, im about the only one who rides in my truck so a little extra loud doesnt bother me! i dont liek teh glasspack at all. i had read somewhere that someone did flow bench testing and the turbo had better flow characteristics than the glasspack. i wish i had kept the turbo as the glasspack was 25$ and 10$ to weld it on!!!

i beleive 2 inch would be sufficient but you have to take into account the joints these guys make instead if slipping the pipe together to promote flow they slip the pipe together opposite of what it should be creating a lip inside the pipe itself, this cant be good for flow! i think the pipe should either be butt welded or a coupling used to prevent the sharp inside edges and promote a better flow

hainz, they gave me 2 inch od pipe, which actually is 1.875 od pipe, only reason i say 2.5 is because of how much they crushed the pipe!!! the literally rduced the diameter of the pipe by 60% or more, they didnt follow the old exhaust route, they brough it down and up and down and up and all around crooked and shit.bigger pipe isnt always better, i understand there is a complex and in depth science about exhaust gases and the pulses the cylinders emit yada yada yada, although when i first installed my engine and ran it for a few days it was fun, i went and had this shitty exhaust put on and its like i switched from a fresh l20b with cam and dual carbs to an old ford tractor in need of a tune up!!! well maybe not that much of a difference but i know for a fact that this shitty bent exhaust really choked this thing down. on the top end i cant get it to wind up as fast, from 4 to 6000 rpm its much slower in winding up. when i had no exhaust it would wind up like a dog with his ass on fire and it would put your ear out doing it!!! i can really tell a difference with this exhaust and i threw a cherry bomb on it in an effort to offset the crushed pipe and i hate the soudn of it now, i need a good borla muffler or a high quality magna flow, i have tried the cherry bomb, and the thrush turbo and both of them sound awful, the turbo is alot better than the glasspack though. im gonna check on the status of the complaint today.

good deal man!!!! body looks straight!!!!! im not to sure on the upper coil mount though, looks like someone who hasnt ever welded tried to weld for their first time with 6010 rods or something. i wish you were closer!!!

dude did you ever sell the car???? im in the market for one, so if you still have it and you want to get paid you need to contact me.

heck man!!!! sounds like alot of good stuff!!! we need pics of all this stuff man! i wanna see those wheels. and i was looking at your list of rubbers and i noticed the hood bumpers for 25$ egad man i just bought some nos ones for my truck and i think i might have paid 12$??? at the dealer, dont quote me on that i dotn remember for sure, i know i wouldnt have paid 25 for 4 small peices of rubber. tell us about the stereo what all did you get? i hoep you bought jl components!!! i wanna see pics, oh and im gonna delete my other 2 posts so its not junking up your thread!!! and again moar pics!!!!!! geeze man what do you do for a living???

i dont know much about j or a series engines but if they came with a hitachi that had the same style of carb base on them i woudl assume you coul adapt a weber using a conversion kit, you would have to adjust the jetting for the smaller displacement of course

is that a black gtr up parked by the yellow porsche?

taillight mount? tell me more!!!

moar pictars!!!!

shoot when i bought my brass plugs for my build over the summer i just bought a box of 10 so i would have some extra, it was like 8 bucks! careful with the brass though they are super soft so make sure you get a socket that fits well to beat them in, also put loctite around the edge to seal them up good. as for the engine bay i just did mine in machine grey by duplicolor. its neutral and it looks pretty good, of course i just did this temporary untill i can do a body off frame resto/ paintjob

i would assume so, i like the mikuni's because they seem more nostalgic to me, and from my experience and what others have told me the mikunis hold their tunign very well compared to most other carbs? i havent had any problems out of mine other than the number 4 jet block coming loose on me, it was as simple as removing the jet cover and tightening it up, i also blew them out and put smaller jets in them while i had them out, took me about 15 minutes!!! thats what i love about these carbs, they are true racing bred carbs, easy to work on in just a few minutes

expensive yes, hard to find, not really there has been like 4 or 5 sets sell on here within probably the last 5 months, some with manifolds. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=16&Itemid=25 try here

cool car, man i like this car alot and that engine looks super nice but i mean really is this even legal? i mean honda+510=?????? does this make it a ricer??? definitely an intersting car! i cant wait to see it done and a burnout video.

25k!!!!! holy geeze!!!

ummmm, where in the hell is all the trucks?!?!?!? wtf? sick cars though!! ill be lucky to see half that many datsuns in my lifetime!

you said you rebuilt them? why did you blast them? steel screws linkage and all??? thats gonna turn into a big rust ball. i hope you didnt blast them with sand or with them put together

yeah definitely paint the engine bay! use brass freeze plugs when you put new ones in, DO NOT PAY TO HAVE YOUR HEAD OR BLOCK MILLED, any honest machine shop will check your head and block mating surfaces and will tell you wether or not they are within spec!!! if they are within the allowed tolerances there is no reason to have either one of them milled, also if they do have to mill the head make sure they dont put it on some type of belt sander!!!!!!!!!!!!! most people say to go ahead and remove .002 worth of metal just to clean them up but if you dont need it then you dont need it simple as that. watch them and ask lots of questions, make sure that they know your not paying for shit they do unless its approved by you!!!!!! machine shops will screw you man you have to watch your back! dont let them charge you for hot tanking either as most machine shops do this before they do anything to the block anyways!!! if you say something about hot tanking they will tack 40$ on to your bill!!! you plan on replacing the clutch? if so drop off your flywheel when yo drop off your other stuff. good luck

well it seems as though either some asshole cut this thing off of a car in a junkyard and ruined the mani or these were stolen and removed with a sawzaw!!! ide like to slap the shit out of whoever did it either way!

i replaced my coil when i swapped engines and swapped to electronic ignition, i used the blaster 2 coil because everyone else did. i dotn knwo that the col itself was any better but i noticed a big difference when i swapped from points with the points coil to the matchbox with the blaster 2. I doubt it had anything to do with the coil but im sure that the msd coil is made with alot better quality components compared to some cheap economy brand coil. buying 2 blaster 2 coils isnt cheap, i would go with the best house brand option at an outs parts store (not oreillys!!) you will have 2 new coils at a fraction of the cost, and wont be able to tell a bit of difference