demo243

yea KA24de/ECU Wiring harness --- I have the diagram with the pinout which points to the red/yellow tach output... but it doesn work... as many people have said... some say you can use a resistor an make it work... but was hoping for a more simple straightforward solution--- which should be the negative from the coil

620 wiring diagrams can be found here https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-pickup-wiring-diagrams-for-320-520-521-620-720.html The dimmer switch as mentioned doesn't really do anything... and with an led upgrade you could burn it out... so probably best to replace it with something newer if you do that The optical wire just provides lighting to the knob itself. It feeds back to a cylinder with a bulb

I think the biggest thing that people forget is the 510s weigh nothing... 2000lbs ish... everyone gets caught up in the horsepower game but are used to cars that weigh twice as much. They also forget the most fundamental benefit of a 510... slow car fast... as the saying goes it's more fun to drive a slow car fast then a fast car slow. If all you want to do is burn out then go big! If you want a fun street car 150-200hp. If you seriously fast track car 2-300hp... with major supporting adjustments including suspension, brakes, diff, steering, cage, seats, etc.

What is everyone using for a signal to an aftermarket tach? On my 510 it pulls the signal from the megajolt unit... but on the 620 with an S13 KA24DE I am not getting a signal from the ECU via the yellow/red wire... which means its probably best to run it off the coil - but I am having a hard time tracing that back through the wiring diagram.

Not much to update... winter in new england means snow... Poor truck is stuck outside under a cover--- which I guess I need to get a nicer one as the floor was wet after the last melt so the cover isnt waterproof... and neither is the truck hahahah Dove into the new turn signal stalk... but I dont think it will work... It needs to be opened up a bit to fit on the column... no big deal... but the bigger issue is it seems that it is not designed to split the brake and turn signals like the stock '78 is... thats an issue. In a brief moment of brilliance... or stupidity... I got the idea of maybe using one of those trailer light conversion blocks??? Run the brake signal from the brake switch into the box as well as the left and right signals from the turn signal stalk. Then run the left and right output out of the box into the rear harness... I guess the only catch would be the hazard, but those should be able to splice into the left and right signal outputs. Will be some splicing but its possible? I guess I need to spend a little more time figuring out why both tail lights are flashing when the turn signal is turned on to either side... and why the brake over rides it either way--- all this is what lead me to believe it was an issue with the turn signal switch.... Anyone got a '78 or '79 turn signal switch in good condition they are willing to part with???? Still need to figure out the tach signal as well.... tried using the yellow/red signal wire from the ECU, but didn't work. I guess I'll need to track down the negative from the coil and run that direct to the tach.

Both KAs I have are from S13s, and running the Megan Racing shorty header on both no issues

Did some more searching and looks like that is a SpecD header for a twin cam. Based on some other photos I doubt that particular one will fit with how fat it is down by that 4-1 junction

That header doesn't look right... I think its a single cam KA header.... General consensus is that the 4-2-1 headers are the best for the twin cam KA -- like this one https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-tubular-4-2-1-header-nissan-240sx-ka24de-91-98.html On my 510 it needed A LOT of massaging... and it still didnt clear... Had to do quite a bit of hammering to get it to clear the steering box, and then you basically need to cut immediatly after the 2-1 junction and go custom from there.... essentially did NOT fit in my opinion... and my fab skills are/were not enough to make it work. I ended up running the Megan Racing Shorty header. It supposedly gives up a little power and makes the engine feel kinda flat.. idk the car feels pretty good to me. https://shop.redline360.com/products/megan-racing-headers-nissan-240sx-ka24-s14-95-98-mr-ssh-ns14ka?variant=18174331125873&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_rfvBRCPARIsANlV66OFcB7GWlsD0JKsV3HzuuZcrC3O3dhzh-IaGxG7RpFrnMEvQcH8wooaAgrgEALw_wcB They used to make a lower portion as well, but seems like they may have discontinued it. It was usable, but you had to rotate it about 30 degrees. so might as well go custom from there. The most "bolt in" option is the megan racing in my opinion

Thanks!

If I had the stock 620 driveshaft and it was all in good shape, I may have considered using it.... but for the cost of having that shortened and worrying about the carrier bearing... I probably would have gone custom one piece like I did... just simplifies things and is nice to know its got fresh joints. I used a big AFCO on my 510, unfortunately I can't tell you about the 620. The engine, trans, rad... overall swap... came with the truck so I didn't order the radiator. It works... but not my favorite.

Not much going on with the truck right now... Didn't get the 510 down to CT to store it there for the winter... so its back in the garage and the truck is outside in the snow... bummed but oh well... 20191204_175609 by devon M, on Flickr I did pick up a new turn signal stalk from ebay. Gotta figure out the new wiring colors... havent had a chance to play around with it yet. 20191201_132451 by devon M, on Flickr Supposed to get some pretty good rain this week so that should wash most the salt off the roads. Might try to get the truck registered this coming weekend. We'll see...

Picked up a new turn signal switch off ebay. Do you recall which colors went to what? Here is the pigtail coming off of mine - 20191201_132451 by devon M, on Flickr

I think the stock truck trans shifters are bent to clear the seats better and be more vertical. I used an OEM boot and the OEM metal shift hole cover, just shifted it further back with some new screw holes I looked to see if I have any other good photos of the shifter but I dont... and the truck is under snow right... For a driveshaft I didnt have a good donor so I went with a full new fresh one - one piece - was like $350ish. The new flanges are a bit thicker the the old datsun flange so I had to pick up some new 12.9 shouldered metric bolts and trim em down to clear.

More photos! Got an orange '78 620 myself. Following this one.

If you keep your buckets, it won't matter... but the 240 KA trans does move the shifter back a few inches. In my standard cab with the redeye mounts it still fit through the stock shifter hole, but was far enough back that I needed to get a short shifter to keep it from interfering with the bench seat. 20190815_185841 by devon M, on Flickr I thought the shifter might be backwards... but it seemed to be too far forward when flipped around... the long shift knob didnt help either... Picked up a cheap short shifter from ebay and it is all good

Japan and the distributor mean its definitely from a 240sx. S13 will have 3 bolts on the top of the valve cover. S14 will have 2 and then the third on the very back but lower. There are some other tell tale signs but those cover bolts are pretty straightforward. Arguably the S14 intake manifold is better as it doesnt have the butterflys in it... but if your running it stock it shouldn't matter

Yes used the factory Ignition switch on both. On the 510 I got the connection from Vintageconnections and connected it that way. On the 620 I just used female spade connectors on the ends of the wires.

Here is the set up in my 510 - Hooked up all the relays under the glove box. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Here is the set up in the 620 - Running a custom dash on this so the relays are behind that for the headlights 20191106_214945 by devon M, on Flickr

Complete rewires can be done - done it in both my 510 and 620. Painless "can't" help you as all there stuff is ford/gm oriented... same as all the other wiring harness kits... but there are plenty of people who have used them. If you know anything about car electrical systems its not that bad a job, just takes some time and a little bit on ingenuity. I used the American Autowire Highway 15 kit for both of my rewires, but both cars are running pretty stripped down systems. Sounds like you are planning on running some additional items so it would probably be worth getting the 22 or similar kit so you have the spare fuses--- even if you don't use them as intended. You will have to re-use some of your plugs or you can get new ones from http://www.vintageconnections.com/ . Essentially you likely wont use any of the switches or connectors that come with the wiring kits. Although I did use the headlight switch on both cars and connected the lights with a bosche relay set up. Both jobs took me about 2 weekends to complete. I definitely recommend getting the CanAm box set up for the VG, made wiring in the KA in 620 super easy and keeps the engine wiring separate from the car harness. I'll dig up a couple photos of my two set ups

Both a running full new wiring harnesses so the external regulator is removed, along with choke relay and what not. The KA alternator does has a two prong plug, and I believe the wiring of that plug is part of my problem. When I did a drain test, when I unplugged that 2 prong plug the light dimmed considerably. Need to do some more digging on the Alt wiring. Charges fine, but it is obviously drawing power when off.

Both have KAs in them so updated to the KA alternator. Thanks! Ill order up one of the switches an see how it goes...

Thats what I am looking at... one from ebay... guess Ill pull the trigger and see how it goes Yea new harness- American Autowire Highway 15 kit. Used the same kit for my 510 as well. Takes some time comparing diagrams and getting it figured out... but most all the wires a new an labeled now. Only big issue I have on both the 510 and the 620 is a drain on the battery--- but I think that is associated to the alternator... I think... On the truck right now I am just dealing with the Turn Signal Issue... reverse lights but I think that is just the switch, and the tach signal as well but that has to do with the KA swap.

Did you rewire your turn signal switch? or get a new one? Looks like yours is pretty fresh. I just did a rewire of my 620 and I am having trouble with the rear brake lights/signals... when either the right or left is on both flash and when you press the brake both go solid... its like the interupter in the turn signal switch isnt working....

They haven't salted the roads yet here... once they do datsun driving done

I might be interested is that 4.88 gear set.... gotta get the truck driving first... Hoping to reg it in the next two weeks or so