Z-train

Now that is funny.Fucked up as a football bat-but funny.

kits are you using?

Resistance is futile..............

Irrelevant. Carb size matters not. Un-less it is matched with headwork and cam,the flow hasn't changed. Therefore, carb size alone is moot.I'm running a 32/36 on a 2.3 stroker. I'm using a L-16 intake un-modified and I am using a FACTORY exhaust manifold. I am also making the same power as your Z-24.

Doesn't change the fact that I AM being nice and that my points on the Z motor are dead nuts on.And you agree with me.Now,you're gonna need a drink....... Cereal killer.

Actually,I'm being nice.Don't believe me? Ask Mike.If you want I CAN be an asshole-just say the word. But anyways, back to topic:On a N/A Z motor, the header will do you no good as the head is done "flowing" before the header will make a "difference". They are NOT, repeat NOT a high RPM motor. Now, if you put a "pinwheel" on one, then the equation changes. And a custom header will be needed. Expect to have to put your wallet on life-support to get that done. And you're welcome.

Fixed it for you.

" Freeway cruising became easier because it is now breathing better." This is categorically false, un-less the installation has alleviated a prior existing "problem". "The stock exhaust piping is so skinny and the muffler is so restrictive so there for it is now corrected and can cruise better". So now YOU know better than the factory engineers that designed the thing? This is your imagination and/or butt dyno.....which is always wrong. Headers leak. Every last (*^&ing one of them. Stock up on gaskets as you WILL be changing them. By DatsunMike: "Has severe limitations as far as increasing the performance. It has a head design that limits good breathing above 4,500 RPMs. High lift and overlap cams are limited by the point where the valves touch. Port angles are very shallow with sharp bends before the valve. This is an excellent torque engine at low and highway revs but certainly not a screamer. As such, the stock exhaust manifold is way more than enough to handle it. No advantage to a header except weight savings." Read this. Read it again. Think about it. Then read it a third time. Every word is true.Your head stops flowing LONG BEFORE ANY header will give an advantage.

Here's why it's a pain in the ass.First off you have to install them.No matter how easy/hard it is-it's still a pain in the ass.Non -pain in the ass headers haven't been invented yet-outside of "Zoomies". Exhaust/headers manifolds do NOT make cruising "easier" nor do they improve mileage on Datsuns unless something that was wrong gets corrected during the install. Header -$250 Shop labor-$200 Saying headers aren't a pain in the ass....PRICELESS!

Un-less the engine will be LIVING above 5000 RPMs,the headers are a waste of time and a gigantic pain in the ass.

Yep-I didn't even bother addressing the "over-penetration" issues.

Or see anything for twenty minutes.My ex wanted a .44 magnum for home defense.She never considered the reality.

Now imagine pulling the trigger on that thing at night in a room.

that's funny.

In-correct.I consulted THREE FSM's before posting and not one of them make ANY reference to lubing head bolts. ARP uses that lube based on the design(thread count/pitch) of their studs.Factory head bolts are like wheel studs-you don't lube either of them.

But the 620 was the best mini truck to ever have walked the earth

Yes,yes,No. No lube is used. If you use lube it changes the torque value.

You wouldn't even have to learn how to breathe thru your ears.

This is good.

Struts do not fix ride height issues.Lower your toy-not your daily driver.

If your truck is in the proper state of repair,I'll take that bet and you'll lose

I posted that years ago.

At minimum

I remember that.It was one of the funniest fucking things in the news ever!

My wife bought me one for $89.00 a few years back.