Tristin

They are showing up for me... and yes they were Lex's.

Thats what I figured about the pump. Im not looking to change it now, my only concern was the lack of fuel delivery which has already been solved. As requested, heres whats inside the boxes: (Left is going on the front and right is going on the back) *Note: they are both 15's They have a bit of rash on one of them and the paint isnt the best in the center. Im thinking of taking them to a place to have the rash fixed, the centers powdercoated, new hardware, and the barrels polished. It might be a pretty penny, but I think it will be worth it to have them looking their best when I finally go to put them on.

It's taken a bit to get used to, but I think I'm managing the changes from new to old. Didn't know you couldn't run an electric file pump on a carb'd vehicle. More than likely I'm going to be waiting until I do whatever engine swap I decide (which will be EFI). I'll take a few snaps of the rims once I'm done working on the weather seals.

Truck looks great. It looks way better lowered; nice work.

Bump and parts added.

Hmmm Im still not sure about the draw to Hotwheels. Some of these cars are pretty cool though.

These bikes fo for about $400 used in great original condition. Ive wanted one in a similar livery, but can only find the chrome/black version for a decent price.

Yes they do Doug. They make all sorts of colors, textures, and finishes. I was thinking of one of these colors: But I decided on black at the end.

I used a fine textured satin black. I figured it would blend well with the already texted areas, and wouldnt look bad on the smooth areas. I didnt want to buy two cans and mask more than needed. Ill be using this same process for my dash soon.

Not really my cup of tea for bikes... thanks though. Either way I do need to come up with something to ride around town on.

Just a few pictures to back up the previous post: Here are the rims that I received that will go on as soon as I can find some suitable rubber: Within these boxes are a set of GL tail lights and replacement lenses for the stock tail lights: I was suppose to head down to Tacoma to meet up with a bunch of guys, but while picking up supplies at Home Depot the car started to act weird. I didnt want to take my chances so I called off driving down there unti lI could check it out. Instead I decided to refinish the tail lights back to they way they originally looked. They were in great condition, but unfortunately they were a bit weathered. Anyway, here are some oics: Before: After: You can view my write-up of the procedure here: http://tinyurl.com/84a58px

So youre tired of your bish looking like crap. What are you to do? Well, you can try repainting all the plastic pieces. Im going to describe this technique using GL tail lights, but this can be applied to anything thats plastic with minor changes in the procedure. Supplies: 1. Plastic pieces (duh) 2. Plastic primer 3. Paint 4. Masking supplies (painters tape, butchers paper, plastic film, etc.) 5. Cleaning supplies (non-conttonous wipes, cleaning solution, etc.) 6. Safety equipment... #1 priority, but #6 on the list :shock: NOTE: ANY PAINTING SHOULD BE DONE OUTSIDE AND IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA. PAINT FUMES CAN NOT ONLY BE UNHEALTHY, BUT ALSO FLAMMABLE. PLEASE USE ALL SAFETY AND WARNING PRECAUTIONS OUTLINED ON THE LABEL OF YOUR PAINT. This is what were trying to do: (Before vs. After) As you can see we go from crappy grey weathered plastic to OEM looking fresh black. Legit. *You can click on the images for larger versions* Step 1- Take your plastic plastic pieces and fully dissemble them. Remove any brackets, emblems, screws, anything thats not the actual plastic you want painted. Step 2. Clean all of your parts thoroughly. You only want to paint the plastic, not the crap stuck to it. Grease, dust, dirt, stickers, or anything is just going to mess up your work. Your final paint job is only as good as your prep-work. Any of the painters or autobody guys on here can attest to that fact. Take your time on this step... other than wait time between coats, this should be your longest step. Step 3. There may be areas of your plastic that you do not want to paint or maybe you want it a different color. For this piece, there was a trim area outlining the light bezel that I did not want black; I want it silver for accent like the original piece. For this I bought Frogtape which is a better Painters Tape (the blue tape with a mild adhesive). It sticks well, but when youre done with it, it easily peels away leaving no residue. I covered the silver trim in tape and cut it to size with a precision utility knife. I was on the hunt for a smaller sized tape so that I did not have to cut at all, but I could only find 24mm. I know they make smaller sized tape for autobody applications but I did not have access to that. Step 4. Snack time! After all the cleaning, pre-work, masking etc. I was starving. So I stopped to have a snack. Its important to get all your nutrients and stay hydrated. Step 5. To make sure that your paint sticks to your plastic and doesnt just run, use plastic primer. Make sure you do a couple coats according to the directions printed on the label. Make sure they are good clean coats. You dont need thick coats but enough to tack up and have the paint stick. Step 6. Paint. Its basically the Step 5, but according to the directions on the paint can instead of the primer can. Step 7. Once the paint has dried carefully (read: CAREFULLY!) peel away your tape. I personally used my precision utility knife and pried up a corner of the tape. Once the corner was up, I slowly but surely peeled it back. If you go quickly, you have the potential to peel some of the paint along with it; you dont want that. Step 8. Clean up your pieces. There may be little flecks of tape or loose random materials on in/on your paint. Gently pick them off the insure a clean job. Step 9. Now if you have mutiple colors to spray, reverse mask the area you want. Step 10. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the second color. Step 11. ??? Step 12. Profit

Me too. Sub'd

If you read the first post its for the fuel cell and the mounting brakets (which are $30)... so his prices are accurate. This is the exact fuel cell I want, but unfortunately Im not at this stage in the build. GLWS.

Thats why I called it off for myself... it was acting weird when I started driving this morning, and I didnt want to chance it. Blown turbos are no fun.

Ugh I so wnted to show up. Stupid car. Oh well, I should be able to make the next one. Hope everyone had a good time. The weather ended up clearing up here in Silverdale, how was it down in Tacoma?

That bike is sick... I love the late 80s/early 90s looks. Man I need to get another bike.

Im more important because my number is higher. Thats how that works right?

Who the fuck would use these on this site?- you cant wax rust.

Replied... thank you.

Ive always called the last one "Mexi-Flush." You see that a lot of Mexican lowriders and mini-trucks. Its crazy how far they stick out sometimes...

PM'd

Correct... so its a US car and therefore not a "Bluebird" in the sense that its not a JDM Datsun release. Its just a 510 wagon. In Japan (other than Okinawa), they drive RHD vehicles on the opposite side of the road than us here in the States. So if its LHD-- as yours is-- then its a US Datsun.

Left hand drive... meaning the steering wheel is on the left of the car.

I would recommend taking this kind of stuff to PMs. There could always be a reason for your miscommunication.