Tristin

Im not a slot mag fan, but those look really good on there. Nice work.

It should make no difference. Torque specs are there for a reason... the advised spec is all you need if you torque them properly.

I would get yourself a good straight edge and check to see if the head is warped yourself. A machinist will charge you anywhere from $40-$60 and it will take him 5min. Pick up a thicker gasket if you need to shave the head a bit and no... torquing down the head bolts will not fix a warped head.

You should snag it... it uber cheap and Im sure you could get it running quick.

http://griproyal.bigcartel.com/product/crest-horn-button http://griproyal.bigcartel.com/product/royal-chromie

I think he was talking about the green steering wheel inside your green truck.

Thats a G18.

15x8 +12 hit the struts on my 280zx struts... theres no way youre going to get another .5in of backspacing on there.

Wow, doesnt that look like a piece of shit... but thats Ratsun for you. If it works fuck the police :thumbup:

This could be a good snag for someone looking for a wheeler: http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/3678998713.html

Yes I know what that picture is of. Its not required, but if you really want to find one be my guest. I couldnt tell you if welding is required. You would have to swap in the other trans that you have and see where the shifter comes through the tunnel. Then move the shifter into the most forward and most aft position to see if it touches anything. If the whole is too big then weld it up so that it covers the area you dont want open (while still not touching the shifter). If its not that much, then who cares... youre going to have carpet over it and then a shift boot on top. No one is going to see it.

If your trans works fine, I wouldnt swap it out. Just cut the tunnel back an inch or so. My tunnel isnt cut as I have a column shift auto.

I didnt know that was the same guy. Cool that theres another factory bench car here.

If your car was not a floor shift model from the factory, you wont have that piece. People installed that later and just cut a whole in the tunnel so the shifter would poke through. Just take a small cutoff wheel and clean the hole up so its not so sharp and none of the gear pattern hits the edges.

Wow... that thing looks super nice. I love that color! Welcome to the site.

Youre not really annoying, youre new to cars so you dont know everything... it takes time. Were here to help so I just wanted to make sure people knew what the hell you were talking about. If we cant tell what youre saying, we cant give you the answers or advice you need. Anyway, without getting into specifics, most older Nissan/Datsun transmissions are interchangeable. Thats why you see people with transmissions from 200zxs, 280zxs, etc. on their 510s/521s/620s. The bolt patter on the block and the trans are the same so they bolt together. That doesnt mean that they were made for each other. If you look at the L series blocks they are slightly angled something like 8*. When you bolt up a trans that was made for the L series, the shifter is adjusted -8* so that its straight up and down. The Z series blocks, they are slanted differently... so when you bolt up a Z series trans to an L series block, it results in a slanted shifter. Like I said, as long as its not hitting the tunnel, its fine. It wont hurt anything. If it is hitting then you may have either bad transmission mounts, they are loose, or when they cut a hole in the tunnel to run the shifter through, they didnt cut enough of it. That piece you linked a picture to will not fix your problem. Its just a piece that bolts onto the tunnel so that there is a tiny whole in your floor when youre driving it, but when you need to work on it, you can unbolt it for better access.

Is it the super clean red on red?

Im looking to pick up a second vehicle and I think I want to pick up a 521. It would be nice to have something to drive around to both pick up large parts as well as drive while I do major projects to the 510. Here are the specifics: Only looking for a 521 (and maybe possibly a 520...maybe...). No frame rust and id prefer if the floors were intact, but I dont care about the rest. Prefer a running L16, but Ill look at other items. Mostly complete would be nice. Only looking for trucks in and around the Seattle area unless it runs well and I can drive it back. I dont need a billion links to CL ads that come up in the Seattle search as Im there daily. Lowest price possible and I know I get what I pay for... if it runs well, I can do the rest. Let me know what you guys have and lets make a deal. Note: Green or ridiculous period correct paint jobs take priority

I havent seen anything but the covers of the early brochures. I have a '69 brochure and there isnt an option...

That was for Canada. There was an option in Japan as well. I dont know if they were L13 510s, but I do know they were 67/68s.

Yep, was only an option for the non-USA 67s and very early '68s.

I was just making sure... there are plenty of Z air boxes. I was hoping you didnt cut up a 510 SSS one. No worries then, you did right by saving it. Parts look nice btw.

Somehow I missed that it was out of a truck. Ive been skimming threads lately and apparently missing key info.

Why did you cut up a perfectly good cleaner and only use the bolt holes and velocity stacks? You just threw away the rest?- those things are hard to come by.

That would be awesome.