ca18det in by bee, oh yah!

[S@nt0s]

it will read fine.... we do it to ours all the time.. i never got around to doing it to my S14 i sold recently because i was busy with my 1200 but my all of my buds cars are done that way... it will hold fine, there isnt a power advantage it just helps clean up the engine bay some...

[b210in]

the engine is running now. so far so good. the engine appears to be in good condition. no rattles, revs fast and hard. i got it up to temperature and let it idle for about 15 mins. no leaks and the fans come on right at 210 degrees. a really cool whoosh sucking spooling sound now comes out of the air cleaner in the front, a totally unexpected sound, it's absolutely cool.

 

the engine is boosting and holding it. i'm currently waiting on my new nismo/tomei ajustable fuel pressure regulator.

 

a few bugs to work out. the engine will not idle. if i hold the throttle slightly open then it will idle. i still need to connect the knock sensor and ground the ignitor to see if that's going to help. also my volt gauge is reading kind of low. there is also a relay that comes on when do the jumpers to the old regulator. it stays on and gets warm if i leave it connected.

 

right now i'm getting my 280zx front struts ready to go and hopefully install them this weekend to take the car out for a spin.

 

the three inch exhaust sounds great, although somewhat quiet. i was expecting it to be really loud. oh well.

 

a big thank you to icehouse for taking the time to make that wiring diagram. i followed it to the last detail and my engine ran on the first try. once again, thank you.

 

i feel so cool and awesome. when i heard the engine come to life it was as if i just heard my child being reborn. i was ecstatic. i know you guys know what i'm talking about.

[S@nt0s]

clean the maf and the air idle control valve....

[b210in]

clean the maf and the air idle control valve....

 

ok. with carb cleaner or?

[Icehouse]

a big thank you to icehouse for taking the time to make that wiring diagram. i followed it to the last detail and my engine ran on the first try. once again, thank you.

 

 

It makes me feel awesome the wiring worked out for you using the diagram. I remember back when the scariest thing about an engine swap was the wiring and I thought it would be cool to save some people the trouble of figuring it out. Plus to me my way is the correct way, no added load to the stock ignition system plenty of current where it's needed and it's very similar to how the factory wired them into the original cars so you know it will last and operate correctly. So thanks for saying thanks, :D You know there is 11k views on that thread and your were the second guy to say thanks... haha :) A few local guys have said thanks in person though so that cool. My goal is to someday make a diagram for each motor since they are all a tiny bit different.

[b210in]

It makes me feel awesome the wiring worked out for you using the diagram. I remember back when the scariest thing about an engine swap was the wiring and I thought it would be cool to save some people the trouble of figuring it out. Plus to me my way is the correct way, no added load to the stock ignition system plenty of current where it's needed and it's very similar to how the factory wired them into the original cars so you know it will last and operate correctly. So thanks for saying thanks, :D You know there is 11k views on that thread and your were the second guy to say thanks... haha :) A few local guys have said thanks in person though so that cool. My goal is to someday make a diagram for each motor since they are all a tiny bit different.

 

funny you say, the wiring scared to me to death. before i even bought the engine i had your diaghram hanging up in my office, i studied it day and night to truly understand it. after looking at it for about a million hours it started to become less scarry. when i did the actual hook up to the b210 harness and i was done, i said to myself, man it wasn't as bad as i thought. when i cranked the engine over and it started, the first person i thought about was you, i said man thank god for icehouse! thanks again man.

[S@nt0s]

ok. with carb cleaner or?

 

maf cleaner for maf carb or brake clean for the idle control valve.. you can use it on the maf too but be careful with it.

[b210in]

so get this. i had the engine running and boosting fine. then i lifted the car up to do my 280zx strut and brake swap which took about a week to do. i lower the car and now it does not want to start. man, what the hell.

 

after a week of diagnosing what it could be, it turns out the my nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg combined with my fuel pump, is floolding the spark plugs and not making the engine run. i pulled the number one plug to check for spark and it was wet with fuel. i pulled all the spark plugs and they were all wet with fuel.

 

i set the fuel pressure reg to 36 psi. but i suspect that my fuel pressure guague is not working properly. i am currently waiting for my brake lines to arrive and a new fuel pressure guage tester. and then, burn out time!

[72240z]

Did you check for proper spark? If the ignitor or coil etc went and nothing was firing they would be wet as well. You prob checked but worth mentioning to find out :-).

[S@nt0s]

check plug gaps

new plugs?

isnt starting at all? battery have enough volts?

[b210in]

check plug gaps

new plugs?

isnt starting at all? battery have enough volts?

 

as always to the rescue, the saint.

 

hey man thanks for buzzing in. so here's the deal. i removed the spark plugs and they were wet with fuel. i let the sit for a bout a day to air the cylinders out. i also let the spark plugs dry out as well. i installed them back in and left the number one spark plug out and installed on the coil. i cranked the engine over and the number one plug was firing as i was cranking the engine. the spark plugs are the some ones that came with the swap. i think i might need to get some new ones. when i did all this, the engine fired and came on for about ten seconds and would not rev. i tried starting it again and bam, the plugs are wet again.

 

here's part of my problem i think. i connected the fuel pump relay to the fuse box. when the key is cranked the pump comes on and stays on. i think what i need to do is to connect it to the black and pink wire that sends ground to fuel pump relay so it will prime the fuel rail instead of providing constant pressure. or should i just leave it alone? also my fuel pressure gauge tester is faulty. i am using an old air pressure gauge and now i think that the reading it's getting is not accurate. i also installed a new nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it to 36 psi but i think this is where my problem is since my gauge is not really that accurate.

 

what do you think?

[S@nt0s]

regardless your pump runs as teh motor is on, it will prime only with the swtich on.

change out your plugs and change your gauge, you might have your psi way up there...

inkectors might be sticking... change out the plugs, change out the gauge and reset your fuel pressure.

what fuel pump do you have?

[Icehouse]

I say put the stock reg back on and get some new plugs, I wouldn't jump into changing wires and other things until you have new plugs and go from there.

[b210in]

the reason i'm using the adjustable nismo tomei fuel pressure reg is because of the fuel pump i'm using. it's a 255 lb per min pump from summit racing. i have read in other forums that some times these pumps will over power the stock fuel pressure reg and that an adustable is nesessary. anyway, i'm going to reset the fuel pressure and install new plugs and see what happens.

 

i'll keep you guys posted. i'm dying to drive this little beast already!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[S@nt0s]

i have never heard such a thing.... i have put 255 pumps in several cars without adjustable FPR's and never had a issue of flooding out the spark plugs.

for good measure put the stock onafter replacing the plugs and see what she does. if it still does it you knwo it isnt your FPR.

you might have sticky injectors....

[b210in]

hey santos, i bought some ngk pfr6a-11, these are the ones for ca18de and are platinum double laser something. i paid 19.99 a piece. is this the right price? i thought it should be for four.

 

ok. so install the stock fuel pressure reg. if i have sticky injectors what can i do. send them somewehre to get cleaned?

Edited December 4, 2009 by b210in

[72240z]

hey santos, i bought some ngk pfr6a-11, these are the ones for ca18de and are platinum double laser something. i paid 19.99 a piece. is this the right price? i thought it should be for four.

 

http://www.race-mart.com/items/products/ngk/NGKPFR6A-11-detail.htm

 

Those are the 4045's no? I think even advanced has them at 9 and change each.

Edited December 4, 2009 by 72240z

[b210in]

http://www.race-mart.com/items/products/ngk/NGKPFR6A-11-detail.htm

 

Those are the 4045's no? I think even advanced has them at 9 and change each.

 

 

hey thanks for posting this. fuck that, i'm returing them. and re ordering them.

[S@nt0s]

Spark Plugs CA18ET 200sx NGK PFR6A-11

Other Spark Plug Options:

PFR6/BCPR6's for standard (gap of 1.1mm)

PFR7/BCPR7's for lightly modded (gap of 0.8-10mm - see what works for you)

BCR8's for high boost applications. (gap 0.6-0.8 dependant on boost level)

22401-58S16 (PFR6A11, CA18) Non resistor type NGK BCP6ES11 (11 = gap of 1.1mm)

 

if your injectors are sticky you can get them cleaned out or replace them. might as well upgrade them tho and go bigger injectors slap a sr turbo and bump up the boost :lol:

[b210in]

ok boys, i got to drive this little beast. man does it haul ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm not use to this power. but i'm sure i get to love getting use to it.

 

it's boosting 10 pounds. but it still does not want to idle and is difficult to start. i cleaned the idle air control valve thingy on the side of the intake. there's also another problem.

 

i can drive the car around for about two blocks and it drives perfect. when i accelerate it hauls ass. i saw that when i hit the throttle the fuel pressure guage reads higher pressure, which is normal. but after driving for a little while it starts to not want to accelerate and bog. i pull over and hit the throttle with my hand and the car does not want to rev. the feul pressure gauge reads down instead of up, to like ten pounds. and i'm still using my nismo tomei a f p r set a 36. to fuel pump also seems to get louder. when the car does this. the car has half a tank of gas. i also pulled the fuel line when it does this and the stream of gas seems to be low.

 

i'm thinking my gas tank pick tube might have an issue or my fuel pump might be bad. what do you guys think?

[mike]

Im not EFI or turbo savvy but could your pump be creating a strong enough vacuum in the tank over a few minutes causing it to not pull as much fuel? Is there a return line or a vent? Have you tried loosening your gas cap when it does this? That could really suck to have it lean out under boost... BTW... I think your bee just may be one of the coolest cars on here talk about a sleeper :D

[mike]

he he, you need some fat 13" steelies with stickies and some stock hubcaps:cool:

[yellowdatsun]

Yeh 10 psi is WAAYY to low, the fuel can't even atomize properly at those levels, nevermind it's going to run way lean.

[LeX]

This kinda relates to what mike Said. And Mike, he will have to have a return as it's EFI, yeah. Often the main culprit is the line from the fuel tank to the external fuel pump. That first little bit of rubber line. Just make sure it is absolutely absolutely not leaking as if it's trying to scavenge air from a leak its going to give you the bog problem and your fuel pump is going to start sounding different as well as pressure fluctuating on the gauge. Just because gas isn't leaking doesn't mean the fuel pump isn't sucking air through a leak. Might as well try just sticking an extra clamp on or checking it :) on my car today we replaced that bit of rubber hose and put an extra clamp on and problem went away (I was having same sort of issue that you are having) the pump was scavenging air as well as gas into the system.

[b210in]

hey dudes, thanks for posting.

 

ok. i do have a return line to the tank. i also replaced all the hoses with efi hoses and efi clamps.

 

i also removed the gas cap and ran it like that. no difference. it did however have a lot of pressure when i removed it. so i drilled a little hole in the center of the gas cap to make it vented. no more pressure problems.

 

i will try the extra clamp on the line from the tank to the pump.

 

it's also not leaking gas.