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New radiator?


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Yeah,here in Columbus Georgia area,I live right down the road from there and hardly have to turn my heater on in the winter time.I have a fairly new custom made heating and air.But we have very high humidity in the summer.That is why I changed my interior color from black to gray.Getting into my truck after work was blistering in the summer.My 60 amp alternator does great.I have a warranty on it and they gave me a 50 amp one once and it would not work right,I took it back and they gave me a 60 amp one.I 've had it about 2 years now.It is a Auto Zone one which really don't last long.Jack rewired my heating and air when he installed it.I remember years ago the 20 amp fuse kept popping out.The fuse holder there was kind of melted and not holding the fuse tight.Jack fixed it.I don't have a blower motor any more.This is what is under the dash now all the other stuff under the dash is gone.

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My Radiator I have bolts right up to it,a perfect fit.Been using the same type for 30 years.When I replaced the original one,I replaced it with the Auto Zone type and  never had to buy another one.The last one got a pin hole at the top,it last eleven years.I usually take the water pump off when I replace the radiator and take back and get a free one.Inwas getting my heater cores from Auto Zone but they no longer sell them and don't fit good in the box it caused problems,you you move the switch from cold to hot it would bind up there.So I invested alot of money in a new Heating and air.

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Mike,Vintage air has some that looks like mine,but it does not list Nissan's.He had one he installed in his restored jeep wagoneer.He showed me some in a magazine.This is when  Our heater cores were not sold any more plus they didn't fit in the box,I put 3 in and had trouble when I switch it to hot from cold,the cable would bind up.The oem.heater cores had the plastic elbows and heater core would not move.He also had to make a bracket to hold the big box under the dash.He knows his stuff.He also has a 720.The 20 amp fuse kept popping out of the fuse holder,it was melted there,so Jack rewired the heating and air,I have a red wire going to my positive battery terminal.The heating element has wiring.My heater will blow you away.I have to run it on low.AC will freeze you.Just the parts and special frame was 1200 bucks.Worth every penny.

Edited by Thomas Perkins
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4 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

Mike,Vintage air has some that looks like mine,but it does not list Nissan's.He had one he installed in his restored jeep wagoneer.He showed me some in a magazine.This is when  Our heater cores were not sold any more plus they didn't fit in the box,I put 3 in and had trouble when I switch it to hot from cold,the cable would bind up.The oem.heater cores had the plastic elbows and heater core would not move.He also had to make a bracket to hold the big box under the dash.He knows his stuff.He also has a 720.The 20 amp fuse kept popping out of the fuse holder,it was melted there,so Jack rewired the heating and air,I have a red wire going to my positive battery terminal.The heating element has wiring.My heater will blow you away.I have to run it on low.AC will freeze you.Just the parts and special frame was 1200 bucks.Worth every penny.

Since I brought it up, I have to pin it down. You have a new custom heating that again, is new, but operates in the same manner as heaters in most every other vehicle, by utilizing the heat of the engine coolant to warm the cabin/defrost your 720 OR you have a new heater that uses electricity to heat the air or some medium (NOT the heat from the engine coolant) to warm the cabin/defrost of your 720.

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5 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Tommy lives in Georgia you are in Idaho. They are two totally different types of cold. Why would anyone bother with high amp electric heat while waste engine heat is free?

China copied the Espar diesel heater, I feel like it was fairly recently, but time is tricky and it could have been a decade ago. Anyway, those Espar heaters are fantastic to keep you and your rig from freezing in double digit zero, (not bad in zero either) BUT, it hasn't been that cold in Idaho for at least a decade and I lost motivation. 

 

I googled and those heaters are $100 or less. HA, when I was looking at the German ones, they were more than $1000. This is one of the times, we admit that China goods do not have the safety, reliability, or quality of their German counterparts, but if China is selling at less than 1/10th of the price and making some profit, then the Germans have been fucking us. Hey, it capitalism and if you don't like the price you don't have to buy. Such is life. I'm only bummed because I could have used one back in the day, but couldn't justify a 4-digit heater. (Hell, with inflation what would that be now!) 

 

But to more directly respond, in the cold, you're looking at a 20min warm up, to have clear windows and a semi warm cabin for your morning. Diesel heaters are instant HOT and good for when it is too cold outside for the standard heater to keep up (driving in full cold weather gear can be a bitch) I realize that this is extreme, with the constant media buzz about electronic and battery advancements, I thought an electric aux heater (although likely not as potent as the diesel) might have been developed. 

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The 521 heater core is smaller than the palm of your hand. It's really not up to heating and defrosting in an Ontario winter. I survived 6 Ontario winters, not because of my heater but in spite of it. The cab was also full of holes which didn't help. I fitted a '69 Charger heater between the seats and ran hoses across the roof for defrost. The heat was really unbelievable but no room. The next summer I found an old air conditioner, stripped the condenser out boxed it soldered ends on the copper tubing and fitted an old '50s blower on it. Tore the glove box out and mounted it in under the dash. The core was about 9" square and 2" thick, heating solved. There was no way to shut the water off so in the spring even with the fan off it was too hot and I have to disconnect the hoses.

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To spell it out for those of us in the cheap seats, What is the amp/kw rating or draw of your heating element and what exactly is it heating? (The medium and where it originates) 

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That part is not a heating element.I read it wrong.The old hole in the firewall where the heater core hoses went into has been closed.The hoses go into the firewall in a different location.I guess the big box in dash has a core and blower motor built in it.

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Gen II Super - Heat Cool and Defrost Amazing performance is achieved with the Gen II Super's "D" shaped air outlets. As an added benefit, you can position all 4 louvers wherever you need them in or under your dash. The Super is an ideal system for larger sedans and wagons. Features true bi-level operation for cooling and heating modes and a more-powerful dedicated dehumidified defroster.61005 Gen II Systems Include:Evaporator unit, mounting brackets, wiring harness, electronic servo heater control valve, duct hoses, drain kit. Defrost kit option includes ducts and hoses.Controls are ordered separatelyUnder hood components such as compressor, brackets, condenser, hose kit, drier, and optional upgrades are ordered separately.That part is a electronic servo heater control valve.This has a floor vent for heat.I have my heat come thru the floor and vents.The defogger is bad to the bone.Rock Auto parts sell the same compressor as the one I got with the kit.It will not fit the Stock Nissan hoses.All my hoses came in a kit.Got a new dryer.

 

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Edited by Thomas Perkins
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Sounds like a RONCO advertisement. For only 15 payments of $49.99 this AC system does it all. Let's listen for the " But wait there's more, also included is separate ball massager you only pay additional shipping and handling".

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