I need help

[Crusty320]

I've had this truck for a year now, and it's so close to being road-ready. Yet, so far, all the brakes work. All I need to do is adjust the shoes, but I don't have the tools. The big problem is the engine. As of right now, it runs, but it's rough. I've tried to mess with the idle and choke to no avail, and it's hard to find anyone willing to touch it. I think it could be the exhaust valve, but that does make sense cause the compression seems fine. Right now, my only lead is an older guy who used to work at the Datsun dealership before it switched to Nissan. It looks promising, but I'd like a second option or some leads on what it could be. Also, does anyone know where I can pick up an adjuster who will work on the 320? 

 

Thanks, crusty

[banzai510(hainz)]

if compression is fine then the valves would be fine also. at least at idle unless it goes of of spec when reving up.

 

since this is a 320 its going to be harder as those I think were positive ground rigs. Not positive. was anything changed on this recently?

 

timing ok? points? dist shaft. Carb Ok? condensor

[datzenmike]

The choke is only for cold starts. ON to some degree for starting and make sure it is fully OFF or open all the way when warmed up.

 

Compression should be even across all cylinders even if they are all a little low. 170s would be nice but 130 even in the 120s is ok for a worn engine. You didn't post the numbers so can't really comment on the compression. Good compression extracts the most energy from the fuel making a strong idle.

 

As mentioned valve clearance is critical to good compression. Points gap 0.018" to 0.020"

 

Ignition timing. Find out what your 320 needs and set it. The optimal timing gives the best idle. Make sure valve clearance and point gap is set first.

 

Carburetor...

There are two adjustments for idle. Idle speed and idle mixture. Set the idle speed as low as you can on a hot engine. This will make adjustment changes more evident. Adjust the idle mixture screw in or out, try both, looking for an improvement in idle speed and quality. When found there is about 1/2 turn where it's best, just set roughly in the middle. Presumably the idle speed has gone up so turn it down with the idle speed screw and repeat with the idle mixture screw, again looking for the best and smoothest position. Make adjustments slowly. This can take 7 or 8 tries but when done you cannot improve the idle and it's smooth and around 700. This is done by ear but if you have a vacuum gauge you can fine tune it a little closer by adjusting for the highest vacuum reading.

 

Idle requires a strong vacuum signal

[Crusty320]

3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if compression is fine then the valves would be fine also. at least at idle unless it goes of of spec when reving up.

 

since this is a 320 its going to be harder as those I think were positive ground rigs. Not positive. was anything changed on this recently?

 

timing ok? points? dist shaft. Carb Ok? condensor

I had the compression check by my buddy a couple months ago and they all read around the same level i forgot the exact number but it seemed good at the time. All the new parts are. carb, switched out the generator for a alternator and a re-done radiator and a new head gasket. I really dont know what could be wrong as of now so any ideas are good ones 

 

Edited February 13 by Crusty320

[datzenmike]

Well there are two posts on things to check and correct. Go through them and then see if that corrects you problem.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Make sure the carb is tight to the manifold. Check the carb accelerator pump to see if it's working. Loosen the distributor and rotate it while the engine is running to see if that changes how it runs/idles. If rotating the distributor makes it run better, clamp it down and try to get some heat into the engine. Engines that have been sitting for a long time may be gummy. Valve stems, piston rings, etc.

[Crusty320]

One last push to the finish I checked the compression again and the 4th piston is way low so sadly I need to rip the engine apart and see if the piston needs to be replaced or if it’s a gasket problem. Just preparing for the worst anyone know where to get some replacement e-1 pistons? 

 

in other news this isn’t good 

 

 

thanks, crusty

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Is that milk? If yes, then maybe the two issues are related by a blown head gasket, or possibly a crack in the cylinder head. You might want to have the head pressure tested.

[Crusty320]

4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Is that milk? If yes, then maybe the two issues are related by a blown head gasket, or possibly a crack in the cylinder head. You might want to have the head pressure tested.

Yeah it is just changed the oil gonna check it in a couple days to see if it milky but this truck was in a barn for 10 years and the oil is about a year old it was a after thought to change it should have sooner I know but I think it’s like that because of the snow we got these last to winters I stupidly left it outside and snow drifts covered the truck the air cleaner wasn’t on so I’m hoping it was just from snow getting in there but we will see.

[datzenmike]

 

 

Did you check the valve lash? Look for a push rod that has jumped off the rocker. Doubtful, but would explain the low compression and costs nothing to look and check.

 

 

Before taking apart spend $30 for a new head gasket. Lift the head off with the manifolds on so you don't snap off a bolt. It's a push rod engine so no timing chain to worry about and...

 

1/ Inspect the valves for rust on the faces and seats. Two years of sitting open and possible snow/rain water getting has had lots of time to rust. A quick valve lap may fix the sealing and raise the compression. Rusty rings and cylinder walls is problematic but you won't know till the head is off.

 

2/ Clean both surfaces, check head surface is flat or it will blow again. Blown gasket would explain the milk shake oil and low compression. When together re-check the compression. If still low, well it was worth the time and $ on the chance it would fix things up.

[Crusty320]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Did you check the valve lash? Look for a push rod that has jumped off the rocker. Doubtful, but would explain the low compression and costs nothing to look and check.

 

 

Before taking apart spend $30 for a new head gasket. Lift the head off with the manifolds on so you don't snap off a bolt. It's a push rod engine so no timing chain to worry about and...

 

1/ Inspect the valves for rust on the faces and seats. Two years of sitting open and possible snow/rain water getting has had lots of time to rust. A quick valve lap may fix the sealing and raise the compression. Rusty rings and cylinder walls is problematic but you won't know till the head is off.

 

2/ Clean both surfaces, check head surface is flat or it will blow again. Blown gasket would explain the milk shake oil and low compression. When together re-check the compression. If still low, well it was worth the time and $ on the chance it would fix things 

I hope it’s as simple as a blow head gasket but my cousin that owned it before me said he replaced it before throwing it his barn and it hasn’t be used since then besides when checking stuff after repair I’ll look into though anyway in the meantime though to cover all bases anyone know where to get pistons that will fit a e-1 eventually I plan to replace them as I think they are the same that came with the truck and my cousin said they should be replaced soon based off of how they looked when he replaced the head gasket 

[wayno]

I would have the head checked as that could be the reason #4 has low compression, just because a head gasket was changed does not mean the head was checked, the head gasket might have been all that was done, why did it need one in the first place, blown head gasket?

 

This could also be why it does not idle properly.

 

What carb was installed, is it jetted properly?

[Crusty320]

1 hour ago, wayno said:

I would have the head checked as that could be the reason #4 has low compression, just because a head gasket was changed does not mean the head was checked, the head gasket might have been all that was done, why did it need one in the first place, blown head gasket?

 

This could also be why it does not idle properly.

 

What carb was installed, is it jetted properly?

Sorry for the confusion but I did figure out the carb issue turns out I’m dumb and was messing with the fuel mixture screw not the idle screw 🤦‍♂️ so the idle if fine now. The new problem is the engine seems to Miss at high rpm’s and I can’t figure out why I looked at the distributor and it’s in great shape so not that can’t think of anything else that doesn’t involve tearing down the engine.

 

I believe the head gasket was blow so he had to replace it.