IZRL Posted January 18 Author Report Share Posted January 18 Ok thanks. Crazy its been running without them for years with no leaks. I'll have to order some. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 That's very possible. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 My wife's car had a bad Cooper ring on the rear driver side to the hose that connecets to the caliber.It made that side to not engage brakes,just the other side and it got metal on metal on that side.When I put new rotors on, the side with the leak had new brakes.When Ii put it all back together,I seen where the brake line was leaking.The Cooper washer was bad.They have disk brakes on all of them. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 In case you're wondering, copper washers can be annealed and re-used. Heat them with a torch until they are blue, and they are good to go. 1 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted January 18 Author Report Share Posted January 18 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: In case you're wondering, copper washers can be annealed and re-used. Heat them with a torch until they are blue, and they are good to go. Good tip 👍. 1 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted January 25 Author Report Share Posted January 25 (edited) I haven't given an update on the the rear wheels locking up. After a week of them not locking up. They started locking up again. Not all the time like they were at the beginning. They are only locking up on the first brake of the day. So once I get the one wheel lock up out of the way. The brakes work perfect the rest of the day. Today I finished replacing all the brake hoses. I also replaced the drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders. I always seem to underestimate how much I suck at replacing drums/shoes, damn! Anyway these are some cool looking cylinders. I wonder how long they've been on the truck? I'm gonna bleed the brakes tomorrow and test them out. I already noticed that the parking brake works much better now. The parking brake must have been partially seized up or something? This might have been the problem this entire time. I'll report back after the test drive. Edited January 25 by IZRL 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 Do not throw away those original cylinders. You can rebuild them. It's getting harderr and harder to find original equipment parts for these old Datsuns, er, Nissans. The problem in my Cherokee is identical. Only on the first brake of the day, except for that one time where it happened in the snow. Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted January 26 Author Report Share Posted January 26 11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Do not throw away those original cylinders. You can rebuild them. It's getting harderr and harder to find original equipment parts for these old Datsuns, er, Nissans. The problem in my Cherokee is identical. Only on the first brake of the day, except for that one time where it happened in the snow. I was actually wondering if these were rebuild-able so I hadn't thrown them out. Plus they look pretty damn cool. So rebuilding the OEM cylinders would be a better quality part than new aftermarket cylinder? I imagine it has to be an OE rebuild kit that I would have to use for best results. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 Gone are the days auto parts stores had most of their merch on shelves in the back. In the early '80s we had an estimate of over $500 to haul our lift truck to the city and replace the leaky wheel cylinders. I took them apart and went to the local Canadian Tire and went through the boxes and boxes of rebuild kits for wheel cylinders. An early '60s Rambler had the correct 3/4" seals I lightly steel wool'ed the bores and rebuilt them and it worked perfectly. Cost was $2 each. If you can just find the parts it's an easy job. 2 Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 I put cylinders on mine over 25 years ago.Still good.Not rebuilt.Auto Zone. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 7 hours ago, IZRL said: I was actually wondering if these were rebuild-able so I hadn't thrown them out. Plus they look pretty damn cool. So rebuilding the OEM cylinders would be a better quality part than new aftermarket cylinder? I imagine it has to be an OE rebuild kit that I would have to use for best results. There will be some other application that shares the seals for sure. It's just a matter of hunting them down. And in a pinch, you can buy cheap replacement cylinders and use the seals from them to rebuild your OEM parts. 2 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted January 26 Author Report Share Posted January 26 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: And in a pinch, you can buy cheap replacement cylinders and use the seals from them to rebuild your OEM parts. Rebuilding oe cylinders with cheap seals from a cheap aftermarket cylinder is better than installing the cheap cylinders? What part of the oe cylinder makes it worth rebuilding over installing cheap cylinders? Is it the oe cylinder housing that's better quality and the reason its best to rebuild over buying new cheap ones or is it the internals that are better? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 A lot of aftermarket cylinders are cast iron. The OEM cylinders are aluminum, so yeah, that's better for corrosion resistance. Either way, it's nice to have OEM parts on the truck. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 (edited) Rock Auto Parts have rebuild kits.Nissan still have the wheel cylinders for 67.32. Edited January 27 by Thomas Perkins 1 Quote Link to comment
Sephakrid Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Make sure to check the cylinder walls before attempting a rebuild. If there's any corrosion then they'll leak even with new seals. I just finished fixing the rear drums on my 720, and the original wheel cylinders had a ring of deep pitting. People really need to change their brake fluid more often! Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 (edited) 25 years ago,my wheel cylinders leaked onto my brake shoes and cracked the shoes.I put after market cylinders on them and still are working.Also put a new driver side brake cable on it,was rusted and locking up.Couldn't tell till cable was removed.The reason Aluminum is not used cause it gets hot and will leak,cast iron is best for heat.Just like exhaust manifold.Headers leak in time.Cast iron exhaust manifold will get pin holes in them.I replaced mine with Nissan exhaust manifold long ago way before internet,they were 212.00 and it didn't last long,got pin holes in it.I had another after market put on about 4 years ago.I also bought a Nissan hood insulator from Nissan it was junk.I paid,I think 200 for it I bought some from Ebay,and made my own.You never see anyone with good Nissan hood insulation. Edited January 27 by Thomas Perkins Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 (edited) Honing is not recommended for aluminum wheel cylinders because it removes the protective anodized finish. If an aluminum cylinder is worn or pitted, it must be replaced.The cast iron slave cylinders sure rust fast. Edited January 27 by Thomas Perkins 1 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted February 7 Author Report Share Posted February 7 Was adjusting the parking brake cable and found that my passenger side cable is not disengaging the shoes after releasing the parking brake. The boot on the end of the cable is cracked in two so when you engage the parking brake the cable folds at the crack. When you disengage the brake the cable stays folded and doesn't push back on the lever to release the shoes. Could this be a reason for the locking up? Maybe. I haven't really driven it since I replaced the rear brakes and cylinders. So don't know if that fixed the problem yet. I started replacing the diff oil seals right after the brake job. I've been looking on the web for a new replacement cable with no luck. I'm pretty sure a week ago when I first looked it up, rockauto had one in stock. Now they don't. I might have to buy used, if anybody's selling one? I'll post a wanted ad in the classifieds section as well. Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 Almost looks like you need a backing plate as well. Looks rusty. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 Can't tell if that's rust or just grime. If it's grime, clean it off really well to see if that helps with the brakes. If it's that bad on the outside, what does it look like on the inside? 1 Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 (edited) I bought the last driver side e cable years ago for 75 bucks.Be careful they have different lengths..Mine is a king cab one. Edited February 7 by Thomas Perkins 1 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted February 11 Author Report Share Posted February 11 On 2/7/2024 at 8:58 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Can't tell if that's rust or just grime. If it's grime, clean it off really well to see if that helps with the brakes. If it's that bad on the outside, what does it look like on the inside? It's grime, I need to clean in up. The inside is clean. 1 Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 Well it's official. The fact that the parking brake cable boot is broken and that it doesn't allow for the cable to fully release the pads when you depress the parking brake lever. Is the reason the wheel was locking up. I released the tension on the cable and pushed the pads back to where they're supposed to be by hand. I stopped using the parking brake and the wheels haven't locked up since. I carry a wheel chuck in the truck now just in case. This parking brake cable is completely out of stock everywhere. So this will have to do for now. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 13 Report Share Posted March 13 There are shops that make custom cables. If you google custom parking brake cables, you'll find the usual suspects that sell universal junk, but if you dig a little, you'll find shops that can make a cable exactly like what you need. ANd they don't cost a lot at all. $100 or less. There was a shop in NorCal that I've used before. I believe they were in Sonoma county somehwere. Maybe Santa Rosa or Petaluma? Nope, Chico. Here they are - https://push-pull.com/custom-cables-brakes/ 1 Quote Link to comment
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